Brembo blank rotors and AEM pads.

 

how hard are the rotors to change on 5th gens. i heard that it was a biatch.

 

no its not hard at all. remove the wheel and the caliper, the only thing left holding the rotor will be 2 star head screws. They can be difficult to get out. i drilled mine out and just got 4 more from honda

 

I heard the same thing when i asked about changing my rotors on my 5th gen accord

 

I have a 4th gen accord and i want to do the rear disc brake conversion from an ex or se in the rear since i have an lx. Will everything be just perfect if i take the entire rear control arm with all the brak assembly and just swap them out for mine? Nothing i have to change or worry about, just a nice clean easy swap? Then i was thinking of going cross drilled and slotted all the way around not for the performance but because i have giovanna mito 18s and the spokes are tiny and you can see everything behind the rim so with the cross drilled and slotted rotors it would clean everything up nicely without paying the big bucks for like an aem big brake upgrade. Let me know what you guys think and know on the conversion, thanks, Dave

 

Well dave it sounds like you are going for loks and not really performance.

Here is my take on the 4th gen accord rear disc swap.

1. You can take the whole assembly from a ex/se rear disc, and slap them on.

2. I would get a new proportioner valve to change the brake pressure from 35/35 to 40/40 The proportioner valve you can get from a 90-93 integra gsr.

3. I would upgrade from rubber hoses to steel braided lines.

4. Instead of crossdrilled rotors I would get Dimple drilled and slotted (from www.Raceconcepts.net)

5. while you are swapping out the brakes might as well install a ST rear sway bar on there too!

Paul

 

why dimple drilled and slotted, why not some cheap cross drilled and slotted? And what is a proportioner valve and whats the whole deal with brake pressue? What would steel braided lines do for me over rubber hoses other then strength? Thanks a lot, Dave

 

Dimple instead of x drilled, because x drilled looses its durability because you are taking more material out of the rotor.

If you get some cheap x drilled then I personally think it would be a waste as soon as those suckers start to crack/squeel/warp.

A proportioner valve is what the brake hard lines hook up to underneath your brake fluid reservoir. It just gives you a stiffer pedal feel, and pushes more power to your brakes.

Steel braided lines, i would use because under hard driving rubber hoses expand, causing brake fade. w/ stainless you dont have that expandability, thus having good brake feel all day.

No prob, Paul

 

well I drive about 30 miles each way up and down a foul ass mountain road every day, and I love my crossdrilled slotted rotors. Warped my stock rotors at 4000miles, then went to J-Power Slotted Rotors, had them toasted by 8000miles(slotted heats the pads up very fast and doesn't vent the gases the same as dimpled or crossdrilled), then I went to Brembo Blanks that had been dimpled, slotted, and zinc plated, I'm now passing 17000 miles and no troubles, almost no brake fade at all, great bite(thanks to AEM pads) and although they can be a bit on the noisy side(squeeky when cold, and you'll hear a popping noise from the hot gases when they are hot), and great pedal feel(partially due to neuspeed brake lines, and the pads). If I hose them again I'll be putting a big brake kit on, but generally if you don't really abuse the piss out of your brakes I'd stick with OEM, or if you are in need of brakes, just get brembo blanks and some good pads.

 

i have brembo cross drilled and slotted rotors with carbon metallic brake pads. the fade on the pads are not bad. i change them about once a year. go to autozone to pick up your brake pads, they include a lifetime warranty so when the pads wear out, you can take them back and they give you new ones.