97 accord wont start!!!!
#1
97 accord wont start!!!!
My 97 accord ex 2dr f 22 wont start starter clicks , but the weird thing is ive replaced the starter twice now and just put in a $200 cell batt .my car starts every once in a while , i can push start it ... i do that often .ANY IDEAS??
#6
Senior Member
yeah its probably the alternator, the lights and radio are operating n the batt. How many miles do you have in your car that u replaced the starter twice?
our car are getting old and all the motor+cable and windows track have to be replace.
our car are getting old and all the motor+cable and windows track have to be replace.
#7
well the first tme i replaced the starter myself because of this problem it worked for about a week then the problem started again so i sent it to the mechanic he put a starter in and had to wire a new wire to the ignition
#8
already seen that way too many times.
id worry about the starting problem later.
if ur gonna do it urself, then remove the door panel disconnect the wire harness and pull it out and redo stripped/broken wires.
Last edited by nspec_Cd5; 02-09-2008 at 04:53 PM.
#10
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I was going through this for the last couple of months. Here's some things to try:
First, check the wiring between the starter and battery, then between the battery and the underhood fuse box. Especially the positive battery terminal. If the positive cable is not making good contact or is corroded internally, it can not send enough juice to the starter.
Second, measure the current at the little black/white wire going to the starter. When turning the key to start, you should see battery voltage there. That must be the wire the mechanic replaced going to the ignition?
Third, hit the solenoid with a hammer handle or something, then try to start it. If it starts then the solenoid is sticking.
One thing you can try: When the key is in the run position, you can take a large gauage wire with a female end on it, remove the blk/wht wire from the starter, stick the female end on the starter male connection and touch the other end to the positve battery terminal. If the starter still just clicks, it's bad. If it starts, then the starter is either intermittant or you still have other issues further up. *** Make sure you're car is in Nuetral with the parking brake applied when doing this***
If those check out, remove the starter and have it checked. Rebuilt ones can be bad.
If you push start it, measure the battery voltage at the battery. Is it above 13V when the car is running? Now turn on a lot of electrical things, is it still up there? If not, then you're alternator could be going.
There's probably a broken or corroded wire in the harness at the door joint that makes good connection when it's opened up all the way. You have to get in there and do some cleaning with some electrical spray cleaner or splice some wiring back together. I haven't had to look yet, but if the harness is anything like the Civics, then the little pins in the connection can get a lot of crap in there and corrode. If you open the door just enough to reach the wiring and wiggle it while trying the window and if the window then works, you've found the problem.
My car finally gave up this past week. I was removing the starter and when I was removing the last bolt, I heard the starter click. So something inside (bendix or something) was stuck in there good. Of course it tested fine when I turned it in to Autozone for the core charge, but I knew it would stick again, so I bought a replacement.
If not the starter, then check the ignition switch, starter relay and immobilizer relay (if equipt). If you suspect the switch, you can remove the plastic cover and jump the brass connections. 12V to the blk/wht wire.
First, check the wiring between the starter and battery, then between the battery and the underhood fuse box. Especially the positive battery terminal. If the positive cable is not making good contact or is corroded internally, it can not send enough juice to the starter.
Second, measure the current at the little black/white wire going to the starter. When turning the key to start, you should see battery voltage there. That must be the wire the mechanic replaced going to the ignition?
Third, hit the solenoid with a hammer handle or something, then try to start it. If it starts then the solenoid is sticking.
One thing you can try: When the key is in the run position, you can take a large gauage wire with a female end on it, remove the blk/wht wire from the starter, stick the female end on the starter male connection and touch the other end to the positve battery terminal. If the starter still just clicks, it's bad. If it starts, then the starter is either intermittant or you still have other issues further up. *** Make sure you're car is in Nuetral with the parking brake applied when doing this***
If those check out, remove the starter and have it checked. Rebuilt ones can be bad.
If you push start it, measure the battery voltage at the battery. Is it above 13V when the car is running? Now turn on a lot of electrical things, is it still up there? If not, then you're alternator could be going.
There's probably a broken or corroded wire in the harness at the door joint that makes good connection when it's opened up all the way. You have to get in there and do some cleaning with some electrical spray cleaner or splice some wiring back together. I haven't had to look yet, but if the harness is anything like the Civics, then the little pins in the connection can get a lot of crap in there and corrode. If you open the door just enough to reach the wiring and wiggle it while trying the window and if the window then works, you've found the problem.
My car finally gave up this past week. I was removing the starter and when I was removing the last bolt, I heard the starter click. So something inside (bendix or something) was stuck in there good. Of course it tested fine when I turned it in to Autozone for the core charge, but I knew it would stick again, so I bought a replacement.
If not the starter, then check the ignition switch, starter relay and immobilizer relay (if equipt). If you suspect the switch, you can remove the plastic cover and jump the brass connections. 12V to the blk/wht wire.
Last edited by m735is; 02-12-2008 at 02:47 AM. Reason: because