Help 95 Accord engine light cylinder 1 Pos Sensor
12-10-2007, 07:38 AM
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Help 95 Accord engine light cylinder 1 Pos Sensor
I have a 95 Accord LX 2.2L, I diagnosised the car with a Cylinder #1 Position Sensor code (think code flashed 9 when I jumpered the diagnostic connection). Could anyone tell me where the sensor is? I heard sometimes it's inside the distributor, which this problem happened just after I rebuilt the distributor by changing the internal and external oil seals. I checked the wires inside and everything seems visually fine. The distributor used to have alot of oil in it.
The Accord runs fine cruising at speeds, no loss in fuel mileage or power (26mpg). When at a stop the car studders as if it wants to stop, which one time it actually did. It seems when first starting up the car, everything is fine. Drive for a while and come to a stop the light will come on after 2 seeming misfires. Or just sit there and let the car idle and after 2 seeming misfires the light comes on. Also when accelerating from a stop, the car will act like it wants to stall and then it goes.
I'm runing out of Ideas, just to be sure I've changed the spark plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor, pcv valve, pcv hose, pcv grommet, and the timing belt (which I think was stretched, runs alot smoother now). These parts had to be changed anyways but thought I'd include them.
Thanks to everyone who reads this.
Matt
The Accord runs fine cruising at speeds, no loss in fuel mileage or power (26mpg). When at a stop the car studders as if it wants to stop, which one time it actually did. It seems when first starting up the car, everything is fine. Drive for a while and come to a stop the light will come on after 2 seeming misfires. Or just sit there and let the car idle and after 2 seeming misfires the light comes on. Also when accelerating from a stop, the car will act like it wants to stall and then it goes.
I'm runing out of Ideas, just to be sure I've changed the spark plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor, pcv valve, pcv hose, pcv grommet, and the timing belt (which I think was stretched, runs alot smoother now). These parts had to be changed anyways but thought I'd include them.
Thanks to everyone who reads this.
Matt
Last edited by 95 Accord LX; 12-10-2007 at 08:31 AM.
12-12-2007, 04:09 AM
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Thanks
I think Honda wants over $500
for a distributor so I'll seek other options first. Hopefully I can figure out which part is the TDC Sensor in the distributor and try to replace just that or find a distributor in a junkyard (no luck yet). Something I learned recently with these parts is someone has to make them.
I do have a distributor with the internal coilpack for I think a 2000 Acura CL 2.2L VTEC, maybe it has the same TDC Sensor.
Again thanks for your prompt response. Now I have a better Idea where to look.
I think Honda wants over $500
for a distributor so I'll seek other options first. Hopefully I can figure out which part is the TDC Sensor in the distributor and try to replace just that or find a distributor in a junkyard (no luck yet). Something I learned recently with these parts is someone has to make them.I do have a distributor with the internal coilpack for I think a 2000 Acura CL 2.2L VTEC, maybe it has the same TDC Sensor.
Again thanks for your prompt response. Now I have a better Idea where to look.
12-17-2007, 06:44 PM
#4
I think by 2000 HondAcura was using a different system of sensors, so I bet it's not interchangeable.
The CYP, CKP, & TDC sensors are all down inside the distributor. They're each a magnetic sensor that's triggered by a little star wheel. The CYP is probably the one with only 1 trigger.
I haven't tried to dismantle that stuff way down in there, but it's supposed to be real tough to remove those from the donor distributor without destroying them.
The CYP, CKP, & TDC sensors are all down inside the distributor. They're each a magnetic sensor that's triggered by a little star wheel. The CYP is probably the one with only 1 trigger.
I haven't tried to dismantle that stuff way down in there, but it's supposed to be real tough to remove those from the donor distributor without destroying them.
02-14-2008, 07:45 AM
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Thanks everyone,
After two of the wrong distributors (VTEC) on ebay, they said their mechanic couldn't tell the difference. I found a used one for Non-VTEC. Cost me about $30 including shipping for the right one. Now I have to sell the other 2 VTEC ones since they won't return them. I Swapped out the distributor and everything works great, no check engine light. When the car is cold in park or neutral sometimes it will rev to 1,500 then 1,000 rpm then back to 1,500 rpm again. Maybe the temperature sensor is sending a wierd signal thou the dash gauge stays cold. It will keep repeating till I put it in gear, but I won't worry about that for now.
Thanks again
Matt
After two of the wrong distributors (VTEC) on ebay, they said their mechanic couldn't tell the difference. I found a used one for Non-VTEC. Cost me about $30 including shipping for the right one. Now I have to sell the other 2 VTEC ones since they won't return them. I Swapped out the distributor and everything works great, no check engine light. When the car is cold in park or neutral sometimes it will rev to 1,500 then 1,000 rpm then back to 1,500 rpm again. Maybe the temperature sensor is sending a wierd signal thou the dash gauge stays cold. It will keep repeating till I put it in gear, but I won't worry about that for now.
Thanks again
Matt