Hello,
I have a 1999 accord sedan ex-V6 automatic.

I am an electrical engineer and have installed remote starters before.

I installed a remote starter my self and when it did not work I started investigating my wiring.

The remote starter starts the car fine. It is when I shift to any gear beside park and neutral.

I have a relay that is hooked up to the wire of the starter crank that is coming from the key switch. that wire has 12 volt when I turn the key all the way to start the car. and 0 volt when it is off.

when the car is running, even without the remote starter, I have 5volt on the starter crank wire when I shift from park to reverse. it is on all gears except neutral and park.

I have the relay installed to cutoff and reset systems that are hooked upto the ignition 2 wire.

The relay that I hooked up was drawing 150mA when the 5 volt appeared and was confusing the transmission control module.

The solution would be to relocate it to after the starter solenoid so it will only see 12 volt when I start and disconnect when it is not crancking anymore.

What my question is if anyone have seeing 5volt on the cranck wire in front of the starter solenoid before?

Thanks in advanced.

 

What kind of remote starter is it? What's actually happening when you shift to any of the gears. On any remote start I've ever used you need to leave it in park to start the car. Once it's started get it, put the key to II, press the brake, and the car should take over and alarm will become inactive.

Also, are you using an immobilizer bypass?

 

The starter works exactly as you described it.

It is an AST Ultra start 1270.
The accord can only start in park or Neutral. Pressing the brake when in starter mode will disable the stop the car. If I put the key in and press the brake the starter will be disabled and driver takes control over the car.

The thing is that the accord have two ignition wires. One remain on during key start while the other will be momentarly off while cranking and then come on to 12Volt.

On the crank wire, which during start has 12volt on it, and when cranking finishes has 0 volt, while the transmission is in park or neutral. After driver takes over (remote starter is disabled at this point) and shifting to reverse, the crank wire has 5 volt on it.

I have wired a relay to the crank wire to resolve the second ignition being momentarily off during crank. The relay will come on from the 12 volt present on the crank wire during crank to disconnect the second ignition.

The problem is that the relay is rated 12 volt and when it sees the 5 volt on the crank wire it draws enough current (Even if the relay doesn't actually puls in) to confuse the transmition control module.

What actually happens is when I shift to reverse is that the transmission control module try to shift over and over again.

I have a fix for that. It is moving the relay to behind the starter solenoid.

But I wanted to find out if the 5 volt on that line is normal while in gear?

Thanks

 

I also using Immobilizer that works very well and does it's job. Otherwise I would not be able to start the car at all.

 

I don't have a ton of info on the automatics, seeing that I have a manual. Make a thread in the car electronics forum, tedmond might know.

 

My wiring drawing shows a couple things for you to check out...

The starter signal wire also has a connection to the main relay & ECU. It looks like the fuel pump relay (within the 'main' PGM-FI relay) is grounded thru the ECU. Apparantly that's so the immobilizer can shut off the fuel pump.

When running, the pull-down coil of that relay is energized thru a dropping resistor. But it's also connected to that starter signal wire you're looking at. Apparently the starter signal can energize the fuelpump relay faster than the ECU can wake up & trigger it.

There's a diode (inside the main relay) to prevent back-feeding that wire. Maybe that's failing. But more likely Honda figured that back-feeding a low voltage (probably with a high impedance) wouldn't hurt the starter motor. I bet you'll find if you draw any current from that 5v wire, the voltage will drop right off. You must have a high-impedance input of some kind that gets triggered with very little current.

You must have tapped that wire between the ignition switch & the starter-cut relay. P & N are the 2 gears where the starter-cut relay pulls closed. Then you get the backfeed. Any other gear, the starter-cut relay is open, and the backfeeding is only seen at the starter-end of the wire.

 

Thanks for all who replied.

Jim,
The problem was on the coil side of starter cut relay. Through the coil I was getting 5 volt probably from the transmision control module.

I moved the ignition cut wire to the contact side of the starter cut relay on the output of it and therfore the conditions change.

The remote starter now works great.

Thanks again

 

Well, it's good that it works. Maybe the internal wiring inside the main relay was drawn with some 'artistic license'... or more likely I just misinterpreted it.