Mystery problem
#1
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Mystery problem
I have a 1997 Honda Accord EX. It has about 160,000 miles. The check engine light came on and I brought it to my mechanic who scanned and said it was the EGR valve. However, upon inspection, he discovered there was nothing wrong with the valve. He cleaned it and it works properly. He replaced the gas filter which was in need of replacing, and put a fuel injection cleaner in the car but the check engine light remains on. He checked with two other experienced mechanics and none of them could figure out what the problem is. They "checked everything". The car rides rough and there is an engine noise that I don't like - it's not loud but it bothers me. It seems to "tick" just before shifting to the next gear.
#4
Ok my two cents.If it was a short of open in the wires to the egr valve the code would come back on just after clearing the code no time past at all.
Ok so you ports look clean but you can only see a little way in their you need to blow air in both ports and see if it comes out the other side.One gos to the exhaust manifold one the the intake manifold.Check that.
Some times egr valves look good but the solenoid is bad inside.Or the vac diaphragm is leaking or stuck.You cant see that in less you cut the valve open.
Honda has 2 types of egr valves.One is vacuum operated(you will have 3 wires for the lift senser and one vac hose running to it).One is all electronic(you will have 5 wires going to the egr valve 3 for a lift senser and 2 for the solenoid).
If you have a vac operated egr see if you are getting vac to it.
My cents is its a bad or stuck egr but check everything first.
The ticking could be valve lash.
Ok so you ports look clean but you can only see a little way in their you need to blow air in both ports and see if it comes out the other side.One gos to the exhaust manifold one the the intake manifold.Check that.
Some times egr valves look good but the solenoid is bad inside.Or the vac diaphragm is leaking or stuck.You cant see that in less you cut the valve open.
Honda has 2 types of egr valves.One is vacuum operated(you will have 3 wires for the lift senser and one vac hose running to it).One is all electronic(you will have 5 wires going to the egr valve 3 for a lift senser and 2 for the solenoid).
If you have a vac operated egr see if you are getting vac to it.
My cents is its a bad or stuck egr but check everything first.
The ticking could be valve lash.
Last edited by Fuse; 05-19-2007 at 05:50 PM.
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Thanks Fuse. Great information, but now I'm being told that the egr is fine but the scan is now showing that the #2 cylinder is misfiring. Mechanic said he changed the plugs, wires and fuel injector but it's still showing the cylinder is misfiring. I'm thinking that's probably the ticking sound I hear. The engine is a little bit rough but it gets a little rougher just before swiching gears. The mechanic has two others looking at the car with him, none of the three can figure it out. They're leaning towards a bad computer. (I've been wanting a new computer but not for my car.)
Looking at the engine myself is not an option. I know nothing about the engine aside from checking fluid levels.
Thanks again for the information.
Looking at the engine myself is not an option. I know nothing about the engine aside from checking fluid levels.
Thanks again for the information.
Last edited by Lore; 05-20-2007 at 09:56 AM.
#7
Have him check this list first before replacing the computer.Me personally would rule out all else before replacing the computer.
(out of the book a possible causes for a misfire)
Fuel pump insufficient fuel pressure
Fuel line clogging, blockage, leakage
Fuel filter clogging
Fuel pressure regulator stuck open
EGR system malfunction
Distributor malfunction
Ignition coil wire open
Ignition control module malfunction
Valves carbon deposit
Compression low
VTEC system malfunction
Fuel does not meet Owner's Manual spec., lack of fuel
Crank shaft sensor malfunction
He covered molest of them by replacing the cap,wires,plugs,injectors and fuel filter
(out of the book a possible causes for a misfire)
Fuel pump insufficient fuel pressure
Fuel line clogging, blockage, leakage
Fuel filter clogging
Fuel pressure regulator stuck open
EGR system malfunction
Distributor malfunction
Ignition coil wire open
Ignition control module malfunction
Valves carbon deposit
Compression low
VTEC system malfunction
Fuel does not meet Owner's Manual spec., lack of fuel
Crank shaft sensor malfunction
He covered molest of them by replacing the cap,wires,plugs,injectors and fuel filter
Last edited by Fuse; 05-20-2007 at 06:12 PM.