Ok i have been having this problem for about a week with my front breaks. They feel odd after driving a few mins and then the brake pedal gets really hard. The Faster i go the more the car shakes and it got so bad one that i got out of my car to go in my house and i noticed my breaks where red like Red hot rotors. SO i want to change my rotors on my 91 accord. I have changes my starter altornator and my break pads many times so many time that i can put in new break pads in less than 20 mins lol. Could someone give me a lil instruction on how to do this b-4 i kill myself driving???- Thanks-=ErockiniT=

 

You are going to have to either beat them off cause they are pressed on, or take them to a machine shop.

 

Any more info like what steps to i do.??? thanks

 

You have to beat them off. Theres this special tool you can use to do that. But its a risky thing to do. If you get stuck in the middle like if you cant get them off then you will need tow truck. Its best to take it to a shop. 91-95 accords are a pain to get the front roters off trust me I ttied

 

there's a couple methods to getting the rotors off, i think the red hot rotor problem might be caused of stuck calipers?

 

Yeah dude, if your rotors are really red hot, you have problems beyond just the rotors. In fact, it might not be your rotors at all. Sounds like calipers (as was said already). As for doing the job, again, repeating what was said, take it to a shop. You can't do the job unless you have special tools. If you try to jimmy rig it, you'll end up jacking up your hub. I had a '93, it was the same deal. Take it somewhere.

 

Swapping the calipers on the other hand is a simpler task. I recently had to change my rear because it seized up (got stuck [aka red hot rotors]) Bought a new one, replaced the pads on the rear, and i'm good to go.

 

Check brake vacuum booster for defective operation first. Then verify the rear brakes are operating properly. After that, check all of the sliding surfaces on the brake caliper, that is guide pins AND the dog ears of the brake pads themselves to make sure they're able to move freely. Check the rubber brake lines for cracks or dry rot and the metal lines for being "pinched" between the master cylinder and the rubber lines at the caliper. I've been working on 90-93 Accords for quite some time, and I've NEVER seen both front calipers stuck at the same time. Could be stuck calipers but I'd venture a guess the brake lines are restricted somewhere, not allowing the pressure thats pushed past the restriction (due to high hydraulic perssure) to release, thereby sticking the brakes. Front brakes are on different diagonal (RF, LR and LF, RR) so is it one brake stuck or both? Has the car sit for a long time? If so the brake fluid could have swollen up the rubber brake hoses internally. After the brake pedal is released, one brake not releasing will cause a distinct pull to one side that may slowly get less over time until the brake pedal is pressed again, and it all starts over. Restrictions in the brake hydraulic system usually can be detected by trying to "gravity bleed" the brakes and observe the quantity of fluid that comes out and the rate/volume. Very little fluid coming out when gravity bleeding can indicate a restriction in the brake lines going to that wheel. Gravity bleeding must be done on a level surface with a level car. Remove the cap from the reservoir, dont press the brake pedal, just open the bleeder, verify there's no restriction in the bleeder (even if you have to take it off and clean it out) and dont press the brake pedal while the bleeder is open. Dont let the brake fluid reservoir run dry, as this will introduce air into the hydraulic system. Drain all fluids into a suitable container. If there's very little fluid coming out, disconnect the rubber brake hose at the brake caliper and see if the volume of fluid released increases. Observe the size of the fluid stream as it drains. If the volume does not increase and the stream size appears small, and there's no places in the metal line pinched, remove the brake line and cut it in half at a right angle somewhere in the middle. Look in the hose. The inside diameter of the rubber hose should be equivalent to or slightly larger than the inside diameter of the metal brake line. Any less requires replacement of the rubber hose. Even if the hose isn't swollen internally when you cut it open, what's the harm in new rubber hoses as affordable as they are. Always bleed a brake hydraulic system that has been opened or serviced. Good luck.

 

Well 2 day i started it. i had attempted once b4 but got the wrong parts. so today i bought a new left caliper BC that is the only brake that i really seen was red hot. SO i put that on but now nether of the front breaks are stopping it is all on the back drum brakes. Why is this anyone know???? it pumps a large amount the first pump and a small amount every pump after till it sits for a lil bit. An no i just had a new japan engine put in about 30,000 miles ago. thanks any more info?? Yes i did the line bleeding.. and yes i add some also.