Check brake vacuum booster for defective operation first. Then verify the rear brakes are operating properly. After that, check all of the sliding surfaces on the brake caliper, that is guide pins AND the dog ears of the brake pads themselves to make sure they're able to move freely. Check the rubber brake lines for cracks or dry rot and the metal lines for being "pinched" between the master cylinder and the rubber lines at the caliper. I've been working on 90-93 Accords for quite some time, and I've NEVER seen both front calipers stuck at the same time. Could be stuck calipers but I'd venture a guess the brake lines are restricted somewhere, not allowing the pressure thats pushed past the restriction (due to high hydraulic perssure) to release, thereby sticking the brakes. Front brakes are on different diagonal (RF, LR and LF, RR) so is it one brake stuck or both? Has the car sit for a long time? If so the brake fluid could have swollen up the rubber brake hoses internally. After the brake pedal is released, one brake not releasing will cause a distinct pull to one side that may slowly get less over time until the brake pedal is pressed again, and it all starts over. Restrictions in the brake hydraulic system usually can be detected by trying to "gravity bleed" the brakes and observe the quantity of fluid that comes out and the rate/volume. Very little fluid coming out when gravity bleeding can indicate a restriction in the brake lines going to that wheel. Gravity bleeding must be done on a level surface with a level car. Remove the cap from the reservoir, dont press the brake pedal, just open the bleeder, verify there's no restriction in the bleeder (even if you have to take it off and clean it out) and dont press the brake pedal while the bleeder is open. Dont let the brake fluid reservoir run dry, as this will introduce air into the hydraulic system. Drain all fluids into a suitable container. If there's very little fluid coming out, disconnect the rubber brake hose at the brake caliper and see if the volume of fluid released increases. Observe the size of the fluid stream as it drains. If the volume does not increase and the stream size appears small, and there's no places in the metal line pinched, remove the brake line and cut it in half at a right angle somewhere in the middle. Look in the hose. The inside diameter of the rubber hose should be equivalent to or slightly larger than the inside diameter of the metal brake line. Any less requires replacement of the rubber hose. Even if the hose isn't swollen internally when you cut it open, what's the harm in new rubber hoses as affordable as they are. Always bleed a brake hydraulic system that has been opened or serviced. Good luck.