Didn't see any thread on this, so I will start one. I have an older (1990) Accord with the first generation of Canadian DRL's, i.e. they come on full low beams with the taillights when the parking brake is released. (Later years have reduced voltage to the high beams and no taillights, I believe.) The past year, the DRL's sometimes come on and sometimes not. Sometimes the sidemarker lamps come on but not the headlights. Sometimes, if you turn the headlamps on with the switch on the steering column (which basically buys you dash lights and the ability to put your high beams on) and then turn it off, the DRL's will go out. Sometimes not. Basically, it's a crap shoot what you get each time out. I have found that if I wiggle the wires coming out of the DRL relay under the dash by the driver's door once the car is started and the brake released, I can generally get the DRL's to come on. So, my take is the relay (or the wiring to it), is defective. I took the relay out and "played" with it previously when I had to pull the main relay and repair it. However, the DRL relay is totally different from the main relay. Does anyone know of a procedure to follow to troubleshoot and/or repair the DRL relay? Just for the record, call me cheap I am not sinking any money into a new relay at the age of this car. It's not big deal if the lights come on or not to me, just an annoyance that they sometimes do and sometimes don't.

 

You may want to checkout vancouveraccords.com. The guys on that forum are nice. I don't think you will get much help here. If you need a diagram of the DRL system check out this link: http://www.mycb7.com/bb/viewtopic.php?t=149

 

Well, in case anyone is interested, I took another crack at my intermittant DRL issue. It seemed to be something in the connection and I finally determined that the relay side of the connector mounted on a circuit board has 6 metal contacts in the back side, 5 of which seemed to have worked out over time enough that contact with the wiring harness portion of the connector was sporadic. I shoved the 5 metal contacts back into the connector body with the flat end of a screwdriver and voila (as we say in bilingual Canada), problem solved. May not be high tech but if it works don't knock it.