OK, long story short I took my car to a repair shop about my wheel stud. In the process of pulling my car through the bay, they ripped out my secondary o2 sensor and destroyed the wiring. I have a Megan resonator, so the bung is pointing down. Never scraped a thing, even with the Non-Fouler trick. They replaced it with a Bosch sensor after the CEL came on(P0141), of course that didn't fix it. I could have told them that. So they ordered me a Honda sensor and put that in. Now the code still persists. I had them put in a Weapon-R CEL Eliminator at the same time because it's an elbow instead of pointing straight down.

I've tried every combo of the Weapon-R, the Non-Foulers, and both together. All to no avail, I'm stumped. Im leaning towards that they may have shorted something in the ECU or otherwise. I've traced the wires back to the main harness and all is well with the wiring.

OK, this wasn't a short story. But I wanted everyone to have the full backstory. Any help would be greatly appreciated. They've payed for everything so far, and I just wanted some ideas on what might fix this.

P.S. P0141 is for the Secondary Heated o2 Sensor Heater Circuit fault.

 

most likely it shorted out the wires and either took out the ecu's heater circut or blew the heater circut fuse so check the fuses (all one by one) I think it's a 7.5amp under the hood.

 

have the clear the code and try again.

 

I wish that was it. I just checked all of my fuses for a second time, all good. No such fuse exsists.

 

They cleared it with the scanner several times today. I've cleared it by pulling the clock back-up fuse as well as pulling the negative battery terminal. The code comes back about 15 seconds after starting the car.

 

it won't say O2 heater on it as it serves a diffrent purpose and just happens to power the heater . I just remember it being a 7.5amp one easy way is to check for 12v @ the O2 sensor if theres power there then it's most likely the ECU .

 

Im going to check both the continuity of the heater circuit and voltage. I suspect it maybe the wrong sensor. A sensor from a 02 accord wont work in a 98 even though its in the same generation. Also going to check the plug itself for dirt or grime.

 

most oem O2 if they plug in the wiring is the same pin out some use 2 black for the heater and others use 2 white wires as for the sensors they should be the same 98-02 unless ULEV then it might be diffrent. as for the heater they are all the same setup about 40 ohms, I didn't know you had a 6th gen try checking both inside fuseboxs if you don't have power getting to the sensor.

 

This is just what I've learned from Drift over a E-H.com. The sensors are different even within the same engine code, they varied by year. Im going to compare Denso part #'s today to see if they are or are not different. I know they don't looks the same physically.

 

Ok, the sensor itself tested correctly coming in at 13ohms, same as the original. Haynes says between 10-40 ohms. BUT, the part numbers are not the same. The original is 234000-2030, the new one is 234000-2031. Im leaning on jweller's from E-H.com thought that the sensors are not the same between the different years. Also, the bottom numbers are not the same either.

Im getting 12V to the heater circuit. Although, when I used the ground on the PCM side of the sensor harness I couldn't get a stable reading. I used the negative battery post, clean 12V reading. I don't know if that has something to do with the fact that the ECU doesnt take a reading in open loop, think that might be affecting the problem?? Haynes doesn't say to even use the ground on the harness, but when I tried using it it was all over the place. Not putting much weight into it.