I put a 96 accord f22B1 engine into my wifes 92 honda accord EX. AUTO TRANS

Most everytihng on it works fine, except a few minor bugs.

The engine has no check engine codes

1. Whenever the car is turned off, there is a humming noise coming from what seems like the fuel pump. It sounds like bees in the fuel tank, and the fuel pump has been turned on with a scan tool and been told to pump itself. It happens intermittently. not all the time. it goes on for anywhere from 1 minute to an hour then stops. then fuel pump system has proper pressure, and the injector and fuel system are fine. What could it be?

2. Whenever the outside air temperature is cold, the car will not idle properly. It will idle at like 400 RPM's and the car shakes and it feels like the car is falling apart. The car also sounds like it is running loudly. However, once you get it down the road and the temp of the engine heats up for about 10 mins, the engine runs quiet and no idle problems are present except for a searching idle.
The engine has a searching idle ONLY when you go from drive to park. When you are in drive, the roaming/vroooming idle does not happen. In park, it jumps and drops from 1k to 2-3k. I cleaned the fast idle valve, but that didnt help. Is there a way to check and see if the valve is bad? I couldnt see inside it very well. I think it probably needs to be replaced, but wanted to check and see if it could be repaired before I spent any money.

3. I have tried to get VTEC to kick in 4 times. At about 40 MPH or so I floor it to get to the VTEC RPM engagement point which is like 4800 I think?!?!? The engine wont rev past 4500 rpm's. It seems like rev limiter kicks in. It goes back and forth spiking from 4400 to 4500 RPM's until i let off the gas, then it shifts back into regular gear like its supposed to once I let off the gas. When it spikes from 4400 to 4500 RPM's, I have certainly heard the engine "POP" like a backfire kind of sound 2 out of the 4 times I have done it.

The car has no check engine lights on at all. I did a new timing belt, water pump, thermostat, and complete tune up before the motor went in.



Any thoughts?

 

Did you take into account that you are putting an OBDII engine into an OBDI car?

 

Exactly get a new ECU, and wiring harness

 

Yes, I took that into account. I changed the ECU and wiring harness to match up. There are threads about it. everything was done properly. the car has no check engine codes or anything. it just has a few bugs.

 

1. Change the Main Fuel Relay

2. Check IACV or EACV whatever its called, unhook all hoses connected to it, its located under the throttle body. there should be 2 screws screwed into a flat panel, unscrew em and there should be a little "bullet" type plunger take a Flat Head Screw driver and turn it so its seated farther down. Reconnect and clear the air from the coolant line.

3. Was the engine an Auto or a Manual you might have to advance or retard the timing.

 

Well my best guesses:

1) Bad relay or ground

2) IACV is garbage if you already cleaned the screen. Very common on all F-Series engines for those to shit the bed or you need to bleed the line.

3) Not so sure about this one. There's lots of things that would prevent VTEC engagement. Low oil, bad PCM, crapped O2 sensor, MAF sensor. But those would all trigger CEL's.

Seeing as your car is popping at 4400RPM when you let off, the car is dumping additional fuel for VTEC operation (pooling into the cylinder and you're running rich, hence the backfire).

VTEC solenoid? Sensor? I'll have to think about this for a few.

 

I don't see how advancing or retarding the timing has anything to do with VTEC not engaging, nor do I see how doing that has anything to do with what transmission the car has.

 

Wow guys. You're great. Thank you for all the suggestions AF. I will check them out. I do know for certain that it does not have low oil or an oil pressure problem. I also do not think that timing is affected by what transmission you have.

Thanks again guys. I will check out things. Does anybody know the fuel pump relay test specs such as resistance and points and such? I used to have a book on accord's, but I lost i twhen I moved.

 

I don't personally know what the specs are, but I can offer you an easier alternative.

It's either a bad ground or relay, I'm absolutely positive. If you want to see if it's a bad ground, take a voltage meter and read the voltage. If it's fluctuating all over the place, it's a ground. If it's remaining consistant, it's a relay.

The relays are pretty cheap anyway. I'm leaning towards relay anyway, 80% sure.

 

Well when i put in my F series engine into my 92 Prelude, The timing was set for that of an automatic, i had the same idle problem, I took it to the Honda guy in town he said my timing was off and it fixed my problem.