<< Official HAN Accord FAQ Thread >>>
This FAQ is currently under construction. In every post, there is a link to the original thread. Feel free to ask questions there.
Table of Contents:
Cosmetic and Appearance
- Bumper and Headlight Removal Instructions*updated*
Engine & Electrical
- Main Relay - Car Not Starting
- Head Gasket Failure Symptoms and Testing
- EGR Port Cleaning - Engine Hesitation/Stumbling
- Timing Belt Replacement
- 7th Gen Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)*in progress*
- 6th Gen Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)*in progress*
- 5th Gen Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)*in progress*
- 4th Gen Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)*in progress*
Wheels & Suspension
- Rotor/Hub and Lower Ball Joint Removal
- Brake Pad/Shoe Replacement
Miscellaneous
- Acura to Honda Mods
- Honda Engine Codes
- Keyless Entry Remote Programming - ALL MODELS
- 7th Gen "MAINT REQD" light reset
- 6th Gen Cabin Microfilter Install*new*
- Amplifier Installation - ALL MODELS*new*
Have something to contribute? Start a thread of your own, but follow the bar set by 98CoupeV6.
Table of Contents:
Cosmetic and Appearance
- Bumper and Headlight Removal Instructions*updated*
Engine & Electrical
- Main Relay - Car Not Starting
- Head Gasket Failure Symptoms and Testing
- EGR Port Cleaning - Engine Hesitation/Stumbling
- Timing Belt Replacement
- 7th Gen Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)*in progress*
- 6th Gen Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)*in progress*
- 5th Gen Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)*in progress*
- 4th Gen Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)*in progress*
Wheels & Suspension
- Rotor/Hub and Lower Ball Joint Removal
- Brake Pad/Shoe Replacement
Miscellaneous
- Acura to Honda Mods
- Honda Engine Codes
- Keyless Entry Remote Programming - ALL MODELS
- 7th Gen "MAINT REQD" light reset
- 6th Gen Cabin Microfilter Install*new*
- Amplifier Installation - ALL MODELS*new*
Have something to contribute? Start a thread of your own, but follow the bar set by 98CoupeV6.
Last edited by e3NiNe; Feb 1, 2006 at 09:59 AM.
Main Relay - Car Not Starting
written by: 98CoupeV6
[SPOILER="click here to view"]
Having trouble starting your car when it's in the sun or at odd times? It could very well be the 'Main Fuel PGM-FI Relay'. It's a very common problem on all generations of Accords.
PURPOSE: Supplies power to the Engine Control Module (ECM) , injectors and the fuel pump.
OPERATION: The main relay actually contains two individual relays.
One relay is energized whenever the ignition is on, and it supplies the battery voltage to the ECM, power to the injectors, and power to the second relay.
The second relay is energized for 2 seconds when the ignition is switched on before starting, and when the engine is running, to supply power to the fuel pump.






________________________
Got a question on this topic? Go here:
https://www.honda-acura.net/forums/s...d.php?t=202098
[/SPOILER]
written by: 98CoupeV6
[SPOILER="click here to view"]
Having trouble starting your car when it's in the sun or at odd times? It could very well be the 'Main Fuel PGM-FI Relay'. It's a very common problem on all generations of Accords.
PURPOSE: Supplies power to the Engine Control Module (ECM) , injectors and the fuel pump.
OPERATION: The main relay actually contains two individual relays.
One relay is energized whenever the ignition is on, and it supplies the battery voltage to the ECM, power to the injectors, and power to the second relay.
The second relay is energized for 2 seconds when the ignition is switched on before starting, and when the engine is running, to supply power to the fuel pump.
1990-1993 Accord
1994-1997 Accord
1998-2002 Accord:
________________________
Got a question on this topic? Go here:
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[/SPOILER]
Last edited by e3NiNe; Aug 30, 2005 at 10:40 AM.
Head Gasket Failure
written by:98CoupeV6
[SPOILER="click here to view"]

TYPES OF HEAD GASKET FAILURE
External Coolant Leak - Coolant leaks out along the edges of the gasket from an internal coolant passage. This is often the result of loose or broken head bolts.
Combustion Chamber to Coolant Leak - Combustion pressure forces its way past the armored skirt on the head gasket and into a coolant passage.
Combustion Chamber to Combustion Chamber Leak - Combustion pressure forces its way past the armored skirt on the head gasket and into an adjacent cylinder.
Oil Passage Leak - Oil leaks out along the edge of head gasket from an oil passage.
SYMPTOMS
External Coolant Leak - Coolant is visible leaking between the head and block.
Combustion Chamber to Coolant Leak
- White smoke in exhaust.(1)
- Rapidly overheats.
- Emits coolant from spark plug holes during a compression check.(1)
- CO (carbon monoxide) detectable in radiator.
- Spark plugs fouled with coolant.(1)
- Oil contaminated with coolant.(1)
(1) Could also be caused by an intake gasket coolant leak.
Combustion Chamber to Combustion Chamber Leak
- Low compression in two adjacent cylinders.
- During a compression check, while one cylinder is on its compression stroke air is emitted from an adjacent cylinder and then drawn in during the intake stroke. This makes a very distinctive "whoosh-wheezing" sound.
- During a leak down check, air is emitted from an adjacent cylinder
Pressuring Testing Cooling System

HOW TO VERIFY THE PROBLEM
- Pressure check the cooling system and visibly inspect the block to head sealing surface for signs of coolant leakage.
- Remove all spark plugs and inspect for signs of coolant contamination.
- With all of the spark plugs removed, crank the engine with the starter for several revolutions. If a combustion chamber to coolant leak exists, coolant will be expelled from the associated cylinder.
WARNING: Keep clear of the engine compartment while performing this test. Coolant may be expelled from the spark plug holes with great force. Perform this test only with the engine cold.
- Perform a compression test of all cylinders while observing the radiator coolant level. Low compression on two adjacent cylinders or air bubbling out of the radiator during the compression check may indicate a head gasket problem.
- Inspect the oil for signs of coolant contamination.
- With light contamination, the oil will a light creamy coffee color.
- With heavy contamination the oil may appear thick and light tan in color.
- If the engine has sat for a while, the water and oil may have separated. While draining the oil, the coolant will drain out first, followed by the oil.
NOTE: Oil contaminated by coolant may also be caused by an intake manifold leak.

- Perform chemical combustion leak check. Any evidence of combustion gasses in the coolant indicates a head gasket leak.
- Perform cylinder leakage check.
Watch for bubbles in radiator (combustion chamber to coolant leak).
Listen for air in adjacent cylinder (combustion leak between cylinders).
NOTE: A cylinder leakage check utilizes regulated low pressure air to pressurize individual cylinders.
________________________
Got a question on this topic? Go here:
https://www.honda-acura.net/forums/s...d.php?t=202091
[/SPOILER]
written by:98CoupeV6
[SPOILER="click here to view"]
TYPES OF HEAD GASKET FAILURE
External Coolant Leak - Coolant leaks out along the edges of the gasket from an internal coolant passage. This is often the result of loose or broken head bolts.
Combustion Chamber to Coolant Leak - Combustion pressure forces its way past the armored skirt on the head gasket and into a coolant passage.
Combustion Chamber to Combustion Chamber Leak - Combustion pressure forces its way past the armored skirt on the head gasket and into an adjacent cylinder.
Oil Passage Leak - Oil leaks out along the edge of head gasket from an oil passage.
SYMPTOMS
External Coolant Leak - Coolant is visible leaking between the head and block.
Combustion Chamber to Coolant Leak
- White smoke in exhaust.(1)
- Rapidly overheats.
- Emits coolant from spark plug holes during a compression check.(1)
- CO (carbon monoxide) detectable in radiator.
- Spark plugs fouled with coolant.(1)
- Oil contaminated with coolant.(1)
(1) Could also be caused by an intake gasket coolant leak.
Combustion Chamber to Combustion Chamber Leak
- Low compression in two adjacent cylinders.
- During a compression check, while one cylinder is on its compression stroke air is emitted from an adjacent cylinder and then drawn in during the intake stroke. This makes a very distinctive "whoosh-wheezing" sound.
- During a leak down check, air is emitted from an adjacent cylinder
Pressuring Testing Cooling System
HOW TO VERIFY THE PROBLEM
- Pressure check the cooling system and visibly inspect the block to head sealing surface for signs of coolant leakage.
- Remove all spark plugs and inspect for signs of coolant contamination.
- With all of the spark plugs removed, crank the engine with the starter for several revolutions. If a combustion chamber to coolant leak exists, coolant will be expelled from the associated cylinder.
WARNING: Keep clear of the engine compartment while performing this test. Coolant may be expelled from the spark plug holes with great force. Perform this test only with the engine cold.
- Perform a compression test of all cylinders while observing the radiator coolant level. Low compression on two adjacent cylinders or air bubbling out of the radiator during the compression check may indicate a head gasket problem.
- Inspect the oil for signs of coolant contamination.
- With light contamination, the oil will a light creamy coffee color.
- With heavy contamination the oil may appear thick and light tan in color.
- If the engine has sat for a while, the water and oil may have separated. While draining the oil, the coolant will drain out first, followed by the oil.
NOTE: Oil contaminated by coolant may also be caused by an intake manifold leak.
- Perform chemical combustion leak check. Any evidence of combustion gasses in the coolant indicates a head gasket leak.
- Perform cylinder leakage check.
Watch for bubbles in radiator (combustion chamber to coolant leak).
Listen for air in adjacent cylinder (combustion leak between cylinders).
NOTE: A cylinder leakage check utilizes regulated low pressure air to pressurize individual cylinders.
________________________
Got a question on this topic? Go here:
https://www.honda-acura.net/forums/s...d.php?t=202091
[/SPOILER]
Last edited by e3NiNe; Aug 30, 2005 at 10:41 AM.
Rotor/Hub and Lower Ball Joint Removal
directions uploaded by: 98Coupev6
The two topics are combined because all of the files contain instructions on both.
________________________
Got a question on this topic? Go here:
https://www.honda-acura.net/forums/s...d.php?t=202185
directions uploaded by: 98Coupev6
The two topics are combined because all of the files contain instructions on both.
________________________
Got a question on this topic? Go here:
https://www.honda-acura.net/forums/s...d.php?t=202185
Brake Pad/Shoe Replacement
directions uploaded by: 98Coupev6
[SPOILER="click here to view"]
(right click, save target as)
4th Generation
Accord90-93FrontDiscBrakePadReplacement.pdf
Accord90-93RearDiscBrakePadReplacement.pdf
Accord90-93RearDrumBrakeShoeReplacement.pdf
5th Generation
Accord94-97AkebonoRearDiscBrakePadReplacement.pdf
Accord94-97NissinRearDiscBrakePadReplacement.pdf
Accord94-97FrontDiscBrakePadReplacement.pdf
6th Generation
Accord98-02FrontDiscBrakePadReplacement.pdf
Accord98-02RearDiscBrakePadReplacement.pdf
Accord98-02RearDrumBrakeShoeReplacement.pdf
7th Generation
Accord03-07FrontDiscBrakePadReplacement.pdf
Accord03-07RearDiscBrakePadReplacement.pdf
________________________
Got a question on this topic? Go here:
https://www.honda-acura.net/forums/s...d.php?t=202100
[/SPOILER]
directions uploaded by: 98Coupev6
[SPOILER="click here to view"]
(right click, save target as)
4th Generation
Accord90-93FrontDiscBrakePadReplacement.pdf
Accord90-93RearDiscBrakePadReplacement.pdf
Accord90-93RearDrumBrakeShoeReplacement.pdf
5th Generation
Accord94-97AkebonoRearDiscBrakePadReplacement.pdf
Accord94-97NissinRearDiscBrakePadReplacement.pdf
Accord94-97FrontDiscBrakePadReplacement.pdf
6th Generation
Accord98-02FrontDiscBrakePadReplacement.pdf
Accord98-02RearDiscBrakePadReplacement.pdf
Accord98-02RearDrumBrakeShoeReplacement.pdf
7th Generation
Accord03-07FrontDiscBrakePadReplacement.pdf
Accord03-07RearDiscBrakePadReplacement.pdf
________________________
Got a question on this topic? Go here:
https://www.honda-acura.net/forums/s...d.php?t=202100
[/SPOILER]
Last edited by e3NiNe; Aug 30, 2005 at 10:44 AM.
EGR Port Cleaning - Engine Hesitation/Stumbling
written by: 98CoupeV6
[SPOILER="click here to view"]
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
The EGR system is designed to reduce oxides of nitrogen emissions (NOx) by recirculating exhaust gas through the EGR valve and the intake manifold into the combustion chambers. It is composed of the EGR valve, EGR vacuum control valve, EGR control solenoid valve, ECM/PCM and various sensors.
The ECM/PCM contains memories for ideal EGR valve lifts for varying operating conditions. The EGR valve lift sensor detects the amount of EGR valve lift and sends the information to the ECM/PCM. The ECM/PCM then compares it with the ideal EGR valve lift which is determined by signals sent from the other sensors. If there is any difference between the two, the ECM/PCM cuts current to the EGR control solenoid valve to reduce vacuum applied to the EGR valve.
SYMPTOM: An engine hesitation or stumble can be felt under light acceleration between 1,500 and 2,000 rpm.
PROBABLE CAUSE: Carbon build-up has restricted the EGR ports into the intake manifold runners.
CORRECTIVE ACTION: Clean the carbon out of the EGR ports.
Cars and Engines Applicable To - More will be added if found. Please add your own if you have a good how-to on it.
90-93 Honda Accord F22
98-02 Honda Accord J30A1
90-93AccordEGRPortCleaning.pdf
98-02AccordV6EGRPortCleaning.pdf
________________________
Got a question on this topic? Go here:
https://www.honda-acura.net/forums/s...d.php?t=202092
[/SPOILER]
written by: 98CoupeV6
[SPOILER="click here to view"]
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
The EGR system is designed to reduce oxides of nitrogen emissions (NOx) by recirculating exhaust gas through the EGR valve and the intake manifold into the combustion chambers. It is composed of the EGR valve, EGR vacuum control valve, EGR control solenoid valve, ECM/PCM and various sensors.
The ECM/PCM contains memories for ideal EGR valve lifts for varying operating conditions. The EGR valve lift sensor detects the amount of EGR valve lift and sends the information to the ECM/PCM. The ECM/PCM then compares it with the ideal EGR valve lift which is determined by signals sent from the other sensors. If there is any difference between the two, the ECM/PCM cuts current to the EGR control solenoid valve to reduce vacuum applied to the EGR valve.
SYMPTOM: An engine hesitation or stumble can be felt under light acceleration between 1,500 and 2,000 rpm.
PROBABLE CAUSE: Carbon build-up has restricted the EGR ports into the intake manifold runners.
CORRECTIVE ACTION: Clean the carbon out of the EGR ports.
Cars and Engines Applicable To - More will be added if found. Please add your own if you have a good how-to on it.
90-93 Honda Accord F22
98-02 Honda Accord J30A1
90-93AccordEGRPortCleaning.pdf
98-02AccordV6EGRPortCleaning.pdf
________________________
Got a question on this topic? Go here:
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[/SPOILER]
Last edited by e3NiNe; Aug 30, 2005 at 10:43 AM.
Timing Belt Replacement
by 98CoupeV6
[SPOILER="click here to view"]
TIMING BELT, GENERAL INFORMATION
PURPOSE: The timing belt synchronizes (times) the opening and closing of the intake and exhaust valves with the movement/stroke of the pistons. The timing belt also matches the rotation of the distributor with the movement of the pistons.
OPERATION: The crankshaft represents the movement of the pistons while the camshaft controls the opening and closing of the valves. The timing belt connects the crankshaft to the camshaft and uses the rotation of the crankshaft to drive the camshaft in a 2 to 1 relationship. For every two revolutions of the crankshaft the camshaft is rotated only once.
Why 2:1: In 4 stoke engine each piston must complete 4 separate strokes (intake, compression, power, and exhaust) to complete a cycle. For a single piston to complete all four strokes the crankshaft must rotate two full revolutions.
The camshaft controls the opening and closing of the valves. During the four piston strokes of an engine cycle the intake and exhaust valves (for each cylinder) will open and close only once. This requires only one revolution of the camshaft.
NOTE: The intake valves will open and close only during the intake stroke and the exhaust valves will open and close only during the exhaust stroke. During the compression and power strokes the valves remain closed.
How: This 2 to 1 reduction is accomplished by making the circumference of the camshaft pulley twice as large as the crankshaft pulley. This allows the smaller crankshaft to complete two revolutions while the larger camshaft completes only one revolution.
NOTE: The distributor also requires only one rotation for every two rotations of the crankshaft.
FIRST INDICATIONS OF A BROKEN BELT
The engine will immediately die or fail to start.
When attempting to restart the engine, the cranking speed (rpm) will be unusually fast.
The sound of the engine while attempting to restart will be different than normal. Instead of the usual rhythmic "Rir. . .Rir. . .Rir..." cranking sound. it will sound more like "RirRirRirRir" with no detectable rhythm. Why
- When the timing belt breaks the camshaft and distributor quit rotating.
- Without distributor rotation the ignition system stops producing spark and the engine immediately dies or fails to start.
- Without the rotation of the camshaft the intake and exhaust valves stop opening and closing. This prevents the pistons from developing compression which also causes the engine to die. This lack of compression also produces the unusually fast and non- rhythmic cranking speed when attempting to restart the engine.
NOTE: The normal rhythmic cranking sound is a result of the starter having to work harder as each piston begins its compression stroke.
VERIFYING TIMING BELT IS BROKEN: Check for camshaft rotation while cranking the engine (with the starter or by hand, using the crankshaft bolt).
WARNING: When rotating the crankshaft by hand always disconnect the battery.
Camshaft rotation can be verified by:
- Remove oil filler cap and check if camshaft is visible.
- Remove valve cover and directly observe camshaft.
- Remove distributor cap and check for rotor rotation (the rotor is driven by the camshaft)
- Remove upper timing belt cover and check camshaft pulley rotation and belt integrity.
Other Indications the Timing Belt may be broken.
- No ignition spark.
- Very low compression (<15 psi) on all cylinders. Due to the low compression the following additional symptoms may be present.
- While attempting to start the car, the battery strength remains high for an unusually long length of time.
- The sound of the engine while attempting to restart will be different than normal. Instead of the usual rhythmic "Rir.. .Rir. . .Rir..." cranking sound it will sound more like "RirRirRirRir" with no detectable rhythm.
NOTE: For an experienced technician this unique sound will often be the initial symptom that leads to a more in-depth check of the timing belt.
OTHER RELATED PROBLEMS
The Timing Belt has Jumped Teeth
- If the belt is excessively worn, loose, or missing teeth it is possible for the belt to jump teeth on the crankshaft.
- A belt which is off by just one tooth will cause an engine to run very poorly or not run at all.
- A belt which is off by more than one tooth will generally prevent the engine from starting.
- To verify the problem, remove the timing belt covers and check the crankshaft and camshaft alignment marks.
The Camshaft is Seized
- A seized camshaft will produce the same symptoms as a broken timing belt.
WARNING: Rotating the camshaft with the timing belt removed on an interference engine can result in additional valve damage.
INTERFERENCE/FREE RUNNING
Interference - Upon reaching Top Dead Center a piston will impact a valve which is fully open. This situation occurs when the timing belt breaks and a valve is left fully open while the pistons continue to operate.
Free Running - The engine has been designed such that should the timing belt break there will still be clearance between a fully open valve and a piston at TDC.
Valve Damage - Interference engines will generally bend intake or exhaust valves when a timing belt is broken. When a timing belt breaks the rotational momentum of the camshaft will cause several valves to open and close out of sequence with the movement of the pistons.
Any valve which is left open when the associated piston reaches TDC will be struck and bent. Bent valves will generally stick in a partially open position, resulting in a loss of vacuum and compression on that cylinder.
If a timing belt breaks during normal city or highway driving the probability that an interference engine will bend at least one valve is very high.
NOTE: If a timing belt breaks, an interference type engine will not always bend or damage valves. If the timing belt breaks during start-up with camshaft remaining in a position where no valve is fully open there will be no valve damage.
Free running engines will generally not bend or damage valves when a timing belt is broken. However the design clearance between a fully open valve and a piston at TDC may be quite small (<0.020 inches) . A build up of carbon on top of the piston in conjunction with improperly adjusted valve clearances can result in a free running engine bending valves when the timing belt breaks.
Accord90-93F22TimingBeltReplacement.pdf
Accord94-97F22TimingBeltReplacement.pdf
Accord95-97C27TimingBeltReplacement.pdf
Accord98-02F23TimingBeltReplacement.pdf
Accord98-02J30TimingBeltReplacement.pdf
________________________
Got a question on this topic? Go here:
https://www.honda-acura.net/forums/s...d.php?t=202360
[/SPOILER]
by 98CoupeV6
[SPOILER="click here to view"]
TIMING BELT, GENERAL INFORMATION
PURPOSE: The timing belt synchronizes (times) the opening and closing of the intake and exhaust valves with the movement/stroke of the pistons. The timing belt also matches the rotation of the distributor with the movement of the pistons.
OPERATION: The crankshaft represents the movement of the pistons while the camshaft controls the opening and closing of the valves. The timing belt connects the crankshaft to the camshaft and uses the rotation of the crankshaft to drive the camshaft in a 2 to 1 relationship. For every two revolutions of the crankshaft the camshaft is rotated only once.
Why 2:1: In 4 stoke engine each piston must complete 4 separate strokes (intake, compression, power, and exhaust) to complete a cycle. For a single piston to complete all four strokes the crankshaft must rotate two full revolutions.
The camshaft controls the opening and closing of the valves. During the four piston strokes of an engine cycle the intake and exhaust valves (for each cylinder) will open and close only once. This requires only one revolution of the camshaft.
NOTE: The intake valves will open and close only during the intake stroke and the exhaust valves will open and close only during the exhaust stroke. During the compression and power strokes the valves remain closed.
How: This 2 to 1 reduction is accomplished by making the circumference of the camshaft pulley twice as large as the crankshaft pulley. This allows the smaller crankshaft to complete two revolutions while the larger camshaft completes only one revolution.
NOTE: The distributor also requires only one rotation for every two rotations of the crankshaft.
FIRST INDICATIONS OF A BROKEN BELT
The engine will immediately die or fail to start.
When attempting to restart the engine, the cranking speed (rpm) will be unusually fast.
The sound of the engine while attempting to restart will be different than normal. Instead of the usual rhythmic "Rir. . .Rir. . .Rir..." cranking sound. it will sound more like "RirRirRirRir" with no detectable rhythm. Why
- When the timing belt breaks the camshaft and distributor quit rotating.
- Without distributor rotation the ignition system stops producing spark and the engine immediately dies or fails to start.
- Without the rotation of the camshaft the intake and exhaust valves stop opening and closing. This prevents the pistons from developing compression which also causes the engine to die. This lack of compression also produces the unusually fast and non- rhythmic cranking speed when attempting to restart the engine.
NOTE: The normal rhythmic cranking sound is a result of the starter having to work harder as each piston begins its compression stroke.
VERIFYING TIMING BELT IS BROKEN: Check for camshaft rotation while cranking the engine (with the starter or by hand, using the crankshaft bolt).
WARNING: When rotating the crankshaft by hand always disconnect the battery.
Camshaft rotation can be verified by:
- Remove oil filler cap and check if camshaft is visible.
- Remove valve cover and directly observe camshaft.
- Remove distributor cap and check for rotor rotation (the rotor is driven by the camshaft)
- Remove upper timing belt cover and check camshaft pulley rotation and belt integrity.
Other Indications the Timing Belt may be broken.
- No ignition spark.
- Very low compression (<15 psi) on all cylinders. Due to the low compression the following additional symptoms may be present.
- While attempting to start the car, the battery strength remains high for an unusually long length of time.
- The sound of the engine while attempting to restart will be different than normal. Instead of the usual rhythmic "Rir.. .Rir. . .Rir..." cranking sound it will sound more like "RirRirRirRir" with no detectable rhythm.
NOTE: For an experienced technician this unique sound will often be the initial symptom that leads to a more in-depth check of the timing belt.
OTHER RELATED PROBLEMS
The Timing Belt has Jumped Teeth
- If the belt is excessively worn, loose, or missing teeth it is possible for the belt to jump teeth on the crankshaft.
- A belt which is off by just one tooth will cause an engine to run very poorly or not run at all.
- A belt which is off by more than one tooth will generally prevent the engine from starting.
- To verify the problem, remove the timing belt covers and check the crankshaft and camshaft alignment marks.
The Camshaft is Seized
- A seized camshaft will produce the same symptoms as a broken timing belt.
WARNING: Rotating the camshaft with the timing belt removed on an interference engine can result in additional valve damage.
INTERFERENCE/FREE RUNNING
Interference - Upon reaching Top Dead Center a piston will impact a valve which is fully open. This situation occurs when the timing belt breaks and a valve is left fully open while the pistons continue to operate.
Free Running - The engine has been designed such that should the timing belt break there will still be clearance between a fully open valve and a piston at TDC.
Valve Damage - Interference engines will generally bend intake or exhaust valves when a timing belt is broken. When a timing belt breaks the rotational momentum of the camshaft will cause several valves to open and close out of sequence with the movement of the pistons.
Any valve which is left open when the associated piston reaches TDC will be struck and bent. Bent valves will generally stick in a partially open position, resulting in a loss of vacuum and compression on that cylinder.
If a timing belt breaks during normal city or highway driving the probability that an interference engine will bend at least one valve is very high.
NOTE: If a timing belt breaks, an interference type engine will not always bend or damage valves. If the timing belt breaks during start-up with camshaft remaining in a position where no valve is fully open there will be no valve damage.
Free running engines will generally not bend or damage valves when a timing belt is broken. However the design clearance between a fully open valve and a piston at TDC may be quite small (<0.020 inches) . A build up of carbon on top of the piston in conjunction with improperly adjusted valve clearances can result in a free running engine bending valves when the timing belt breaks.
Accord90-93F22TimingBeltReplacement.pdf
Accord94-97F22TimingBeltReplacement.pdf
Accord95-97C27TimingBeltReplacement.pdf
Accord98-02F23TimingBeltReplacement.pdf
Accord98-02J30TimingBeltReplacement.pdf
________________________
Got a question on this topic? Go here:
https://www.honda-acura.net/forums/s...d.php?t=202360
[/SPOILER]
Last edited by e3NiNe; Aug 30, 2005 at 10:43 AM.
7th Gen Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)
written by: 98CoupeV6
[SPOILER="click here to view"]
I HAVE A CHECK ENGINE LIGHT OR SRS LIGHT; HOW DO I FIND OUT THE TROUBLE CODE? For 7th gens, you'll have to either bring the car to the dealer and for $60 they'll tell you and diagnose it or you can bring it to an Autozone or similiar and they'll hook up an OBDII reader to your car for free and grab your code.
Accord 03-07 DTC Codes
Engine Codes



Transmission Codes



SRS Air Bag Codes






ABS/TCS Codes

________________________
Got a question on this topic? Go here:
https://www.honda-acura.net/forums/s...d.php?t=202321
[/spoiler]
written by: 98CoupeV6
[SPOILER="click here to view"]
I HAVE A CHECK ENGINE LIGHT OR SRS LIGHT; HOW DO I FIND OUT THE TROUBLE CODE? For 7th gens, you'll have to either bring the car to the dealer and for $60 they'll tell you and diagnose it or you can bring it to an Autozone or similiar and they'll hook up an OBDII reader to your car for free and grab your code.
Accord 03-07 DTC Codes
Engine Codes
Transmission Codes
SRS Air Bag Codes
ABS/TCS Codes
________________________
Got a question on this topic? Go here:
https://www.honda-acura.net/forums/s...d.php?t=202321
[/spoiler]
Last edited by e3NiNe; Aug 30, 2005 at 10:44 AM.
6th Gen Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)
written by: 98CoupeV6
[SPOILER="click here to view"]
This thread will list the DTCs (diagnostic trouble codes) with a brief description of it. To receive a more in depth explanation of the code and/or troubleshooting methods, please search the forum for that code or ask in my TSB/tech question thread.
I HAVE A CHECK ENGINE LIGHT OR SRS LIGHT; HOW DO I FIND OUT THE TROUBLE CODE? For 6th gens, you'll have to either bring the car to the dealer and for $60 they'll tell you and diagnose it or you can bring it to an Autozone or similiar and they'll hook up an OBDII reader to your car for free and grab your code. However, there is a special shortcut you can take to eliminate the need to start your car up:
Reading Check Engine Codes
Courtesy of http://mywebpages.comcast.net/jweller1/check_eng.html
OK this is pretty easy. look at the picture below, thats the service connector. If you look up under the dash on the drivers side footwell, its right there, just above the hood release. You need to jumper the connector, just like in the picture. I've found a paperclip is excellent for this task. what you want to do is this.
1) Jumper the service connector
2) Turn the ignition key to ON
3) Count the flashes on the instrument panel
4) Look up what the code means
The flashes will be a series of long blinks, a pause, followed by short ones. For example:
Long-Long-Long-Long-Long-Long-Long____ShortShort
7 long and 2 short, indicates a code 72, Cyl #2 misfire.

The 'MIL indication' column refers to the number of times the CEL blinks when you insert the paper clip into the OBD II reader. It is not uncommon to get multiple codes, so be careful and write them down.
Accord 98-02 DTC Codes
Engine Codes






Transmission Codes

SRS Air Bag Codes
1-1 Open In Driver's Airbag Inflator
1-2 Increased Resistance In Driver's Airbag Inflator
1-3 Short to Wire or Less Resistance In Driver Airbag Inflator
1-4 Short to Power In Driver's Airbag Inflator
1-5 Short to Ground In Driver's Airbag Inflator
2-1 Open In Passenger's Airbag Inflator
2-2 Increased Resistance In Passenger's Airbag Inflator
2-3 Short to Wire or Less Resistance In Pass. Airbag Inflator
2-4 Short to Power In Passenger's Airbag Inflator
2-5 Short to Ground In Passenger's Airbag Inflator
5-1 Internal Failure of SRS Unit
5-2 Internal Failure of SRS Unit
5-3 Internal Failure of SRS Unit
5-4 Internal Failure of SRS Unit
5-5 Internal Failure of SRS Unit
5-8 Internal Failure of SRS Unit
6-1 Internal Failure of SRS Unit
6-2 Internal Failure of SRS Unit
6-3 Internal Failure of SRS Unit
6-4 Internal Failure of SRS Unit
7-1 Internal Failure of SRS Unit
7-2 Internal Failure of SRS Unit
7-3 Internal Failure of SRS Unit
8-1 Internal Failure of SRS Unit
8-2 Internal Failure of SRS Unit
8-5 Internal Failure of SRS Unit
8-6 Internal Failure of SRS Unit, or Two Failure At A Time
9-1 Internal Failure of SRS Unit
9-2 Internal Failure of SRS Unit
10-1 Internal Failure of SRS Unit


ABS Codes

TCS Codes

________________________
Got a question on this topic? Go here:
https://www.honda-acura.net/forums/s...d.php?t=202368
[/SPOILER]
written by: 98CoupeV6
[SPOILER="click here to view"]
This thread will list the DTCs (diagnostic trouble codes) with a brief description of it. To receive a more in depth explanation of the code and/or troubleshooting methods, please search the forum for that code or ask in my TSB/tech question thread.
I HAVE A CHECK ENGINE LIGHT OR SRS LIGHT; HOW DO I FIND OUT THE TROUBLE CODE? For 6th gens, you'll have to either bring the car to the dealer and for $60 they'll tell you and diagnose it or you can bring it to an Autozone or similiar and they'll hook up an OBDII reader to your car for free and grab your code. However, there is a special shortcut you can take to eliminate the need to start your car up:
Reading Check Engine Codes
Courtesy of http://mywebpages.comcast.net/jweller1/check_eng.html
OK this is pretty easy. look at the picture below, thats the service connector. If you look up under the dash on the drivers side footwell, its right there, just above the hood release. You need to jumper the connector, just like in the picture. I've found a paperclip is excellent for this task. what you want to do is this.
1) Jumper the service connector
2) Turn the ignition key to ON
3) Count the flashes on the instrument panel
4) Look up what the code means
The flashes will be a series of long blinks, a pause, followed by short ones. For example:
Long-Long-Long-Long-Long-Long-Long____ShortShort
7 long and 2 short, indicates a code 72, Cyl #2 misfire.
The 'MIL indication' column refers to the number of times the CEL blinks when you insert the paper clip into the OBD II reader. It is not uncommon to get multiple codes, so be careful and write them down.
Accord 98-02 DTC Codes
Engine Codes
Transmission Codes
SRS Air Bag Codes
1-1 Open In Driver's Airbag Inflator
1-2 Increased Resistance In Driver's Airbag Inflator
1-3 Short to Wire or Less Resistance In Driver Airbag Inflator
1-4 Short to Power In Driver's Airbag Inflator
1-5 Short to Ground In Driver's Airbag Inflator
2-1 Open In Passenger's Airbag Inflator
2-2 Increased Resistance In Passenger's Airbag Inflator
2-3 Short to Wire or Less Resistance In Pass. Airbag Inflator
2-4 Short to Power In Passenger's Airbag Inflator
2-5 Short to Ground In Passenger's Airbag Inflator
5-1 Internal Failure of SRS Unit
5-2 Internal Failure of SRS Unit
5-3 Internal Failure of SRS Unit
5-4 Internal Failure of SRS Unit
5-5 Internal Failure of SRS Unit
5-8 Internal Failure of SRS Unit
6-1 Internal Failure of SRS Unit
6-2 Internal Failure of SRS Unit
6-3 Internal Failure of SRS Unit
6-4 Internal Failure of SRS Unit
7-1 Internal Failure of SRS Unit
7-2 Internal Failure of SRS Unit
7-3 Internal Failure of SRS Unit
8-1 Internal Failure of SRS Unit
8-2 Internal Failure of SRS Unit
8-5 Internal Failure of SRS Unit
8-6 Internal Failure of SRS Unit, or Two Failure At A Time
9-1 Internal Failure of SRS Unit
9-2 Internal Failure of SRS Unit
10-1 Internal Failure of SRS Unit
ABS Codes
TCS Codes
________________________
Got a question on this topic? Go here:
https://www.honda-acura.net/forums/s...d.php?t=202368
[/SPOILER]
Last edited by e3NiNe; Aug 30, 2005 at 10:45 AM.
Acura to Honda mods
This section will contain various Acura to Honda modifications. Since the Accord, CL, and TL share the same platform, many luxury parts can be swapped back and forth.
Sick of your automatic transmission shifter?

https://www.honda-acura.net/forums/s...d.php?t=151872
3rd Gen TL Swaybar to 7th Gen Accord
https://www.honda-acura.net/forums/s...d.php?t=151151
This section will contain various Acura to Honda modifications. Since the Accord, CL, and TL share the same platform, many luxury parts can be swapped back and forth.
Sick of your automatic transmission shifter?

https://www.honda-acura.net/forums/s...d.php?t=151872
3rd Gen TL Swaybar to 7th Gen Accord
https://www.honda-acura.net/forums/s...d.php?t=151151
Last edited by e3NiNe; Aug 30, 2005 at 10:19 AM.


