CV axels replaced, now more noise
I have an 94 Accord with ~85,000 miles on it. I had some clicking in one of the CV joints, so I had both front ones replaced with remanufactured parts at some quickie place (I had to leave on a trip the next day).
Anyway, after that was done I noticed a new squealing/squeak sound when I would turn at low speeds. It's a mechanical squeak, not a tire pressure sound. It sounded to me in my admittedly limited car knowledge to be the wheel bearings. It was kind of an on again-off again thing, and it would happen on both sides.
Then yesterday I got a horrible constant loud high pitched screeching sound from my front left tire which sounds like my brakes are grinding. The only strange part is that the sound goes away when I apply the brakes.
So what I'd like to know is what I should do about getting this fixed. Do I have a break problem on top of a bearing problem now? Or any other suggestions? Is it possible any of this has been caused by shoddy work at the CV place? I had no problems with front end noise of this nature until I went there, and they have a guarantee/warranty in place. I'm just unsure if I'm justified in blaming them, and want to be sure in the likely event they deny that they could have caused anything like this. Thanks.
Anyway, after that was done I noticed a new squealing/squeak sound when I would turn at low speeds. It's a mechanical squeak, not a tire pressure sound. It sounded to me in my admittedly limited car knowledge to be the wheel bearings. It was kind of an on again-off again thing, and it would happen on both sides.
Then yesterday I got a horrible constant loud high pitched screeching sound from my front left tire which sounds like my brakes are grinding. The only strange part is that the sound goes away when I apply the brakes.
So what I'd like to know is what I should do about getting this fixed. Do I have a break problem on top of a bearing problem now? Or any other suggestions? Is it possible any of this has been caused by shoddy work at the CV place? I had no problems with front end noise of this nature until I went there, and they have a guarantee/warranty in place. I'm just unsure if I'm justified in blaming them, and want to be sure in the likely event they deny that they could have caused anything like this. Thanks.
Originally Posted by coregis
Then yesterday I got a horrible constant loud high pitched screeching sound from my front left tire which sounds like my brakes are grinding. The only strange part is that the sound goes away when I apply the brakes.
If you don't use OEM pads, just be sure to use a good set of organic if you're going to stick with the OEM rotors, etc.
And as an additional note, if you haven't done it yet, you're coming up on time to do your timing belt, etc.
And as an additional note, if you haven't done it yet, you're coming up on time to do your timing belt, etc.
Any recommendations for good, moderate to inexpensive brake pads? I'm going to (hopefully) stick with the oem rotors and everyhting, I am pretty broke and don't want to spend too much on this, but I don't want midas crap-o pads or anything. And will a mechanic allow me to buy my own pads and have them install them? Thanks again for all your help.
You can replace your pads yourself. It is about the easiest job you can do.
Lift vehicle.
Remove wheel
Remove caliper
Remove old pads
Insert new pads ( Use some shims and/or some anti squeeaak goo )
Push caliper piston back in. ( crack the bleeder screw to allow the fluid to drain out rather than being pushed back up through teh system, tighten bleeder screw)
Reinstall caliper
Clean off bleeder screw
Repeat steps for other side
get in car
Push brake pedal halfway down multiple times to extend caliper pistons and seat the pads.
Hold pressure on the pedal for a minute to check for leaks
If no leaks, pat yourself on the back
Install wheels tighten lug nuts to about 80 ft lbs ( or, tight-is-tight )
lower vehicle and test drive
Check for pulling to either side
Brakes have a break-in period before they offer full stopping ability
Saves money to do it yourself.
Lift vehicle.
Remove wheel
Remove caliper
Remove old pads
Insert new pads ( Use some shims and/or some anti squeeaak goo )
Push caliper piston back in. ( crack the bleeder screw to allow the fluid to drain out rather than being pushed back up through teh system, tighten bleeder screw)
Reinstall caliper
Clean off bleeder screw
Repeat steps for other side
get in car
Push brake pedal halfway down multiple times to extend caliper pistons and seat the pads.
Hold pressure on the pedal for a minute to check for leaks
If no leaks, pat yourself on the back
Install wheels tighten lug nuts to about 80 ft lbs ( or, tight-is-tight )
lower vehicle and test drive
Check for pulling to either side
Brakes have a break-in period before they offer full stopping ability
Saves money to do it yourself.



.............j/k