okay, on my main cooling fan. there is a plug on the sid eof it and it is not plugged into anything but i cant find anything for it to possibly connect to.
it doesnt turn when i hit my a/c but the both fans in the camry turn when i hit the a/c.
so i dont know what is up because for the wholel year ive driven it, it maybe turned on twice and that was a very long time ago. not sure how to check the relay since i thas 4 prongs to it.

that being said, i dont know if my thermostat is good or not. is the lower radiator/collant tube supposed to be colder than the top one? or should both be fairly hot?

the top one, i can hardly hold it as compared to the lower one.

i have this weird idling problem when i step on the gas, the rpms drop to about 300-400, sounds as if it is about to die but usually recovers.
here is a video of it: http://www.reaction-image.net/albums/album212/idle.wmv

thanks

 

anyone?

 

The radiator fan only turns when the coolant reaches a certain temperature to kick on. The AC fan is on whenever the AC is on.

First, I would check to make sure there are no bubbles in the system which may be preventing the fan from functioning correctly. Then, I would replace the thermostat. They are so cheap, that you might as well. You can test it by suspending it in water and looking to see if it opens when the water reaches the temperature rating of the thermostat.

Where does the ECT gauge hover when driving normally?

About the idling problem, when was the last time you did a tuneup with new wires, spark plugs, distributor cap/rotor? Have you thought about running a bottle of injector cleaner through?

Sorry I couldn't be more help. I will flip through my service manual and see if I can find anything relevant to your problems.

 

okay, i was wondering...i have one of those aftermarket radiator caps that have a button int he middle and when i press it, it releases air/pressure?
is that actually bad for the system?

i already bought a thermostat, im just waiting to replace it after my smog check. a rad fan and motor is ont he way as well.

i already replaced the distributor, o2 sensor, PCV valve, plugs, plug wires, main relay and checked the injectors for clicking.

i run fuel injector cleaner every tank (have a whole gallon of mystery oil h: )

 

OK, sounds like you have things handled. Where does the temperature gauge hover when driving around?

I don't imagine the radiator cap would be good. Put an OEM one back on and see if anything improves.

 

always middle and never above or below...never overheated in the time ive owned it (over a year)

ill see if i can find the oem radiator cap.

 

after my h22 swap i put aftermarket fans on it to make sure it stayed cool. They arnt ran to a temp switch just a switch on my dash. I forgot to turn it on one day in stop an go traffic(in the middle of the summer, i live in FL) Looked at the temp gauge. To my supprise it was sitting right were it always does. Right in the middle not up or down. Those fans didnt do dittly squat when i turned them on. The gauge didnt move at all.

My theroy on your problem. Maybe the preset temp on your fans is higher than your car temp ever acctually ever gets. I have a stock cooling system except for my higher CFM fans. 90 accord 4dr engine is 93 USDM prelude h22a1

 

I've never seen a properly running Honda product ever run hotter than approx just to the cool side of the mid-point on the temp gauge. Have had Legends, Tegs, and Accords, plus sold them for a couple of years (new & used), so I've had lots of exposure to new ones and old tired ones. . .

That 'little button' in the center of the radiator cap is to release pressure (hot steam and fluid) before removing it, so you don't get burned, or crap up the engine bay with coolant spraying all over. Some aftermarket caps have a little lever on top of the cap that does the same thing. I'd suggest switching back to an OEM cap, as they will have the correct pressure capacity for your specific car. And they are proven to work just fine on millions of other Honda products. Also, only use Honda brand coolant, no matter what an aftermarket brand claims, and do not alter the recommend mix ratios - too much coolant will defeat the intended purposes, both for low temp anti-freeze protection and for hi-temp protection. The alloys in most engines these days require a specific type of coolant, and that applies to Hondas especially, and using improperly formuated coolant will lead to undesired chemical reactions inside the cooling system (engine, heads, radiator, etc.) I've seen pictures of the internal passages that are corroded, plugged up, etc. from using offbrand coolant - worst thing you can do is use Toyota coolant in a Honda. . .While you're at it, install a new thermostat, as the one you have may be an improper heat range thermostat (they can be had in 180, 195, and even higher temp ranges - get an OEM replacement from Honda and do it right). And you'll need to properly bleed your cooling system after you change the coolant - follow the directions in the service manual for both draining and refilling the system - you need to get all the old fluids out, and get all you can back in without any air bubbles.

Also check your vacuum lines for possible leaky connections or cracks, and make sure your PCV valve is functioning okay. Either will cause all sorts of wierd idle issues, especially when accelerating from an idle position.

Also, don't overdue the fuel injector cleaner - I had problems w/ a Taurus SHO using an aggressive cleaner, and it actually screwed up some of the injectors, which were old orig. ones - may have dislodged some crap and affected the spray pattern. Besides, you'r wasting your $$, for name brand gasoline should have just about all you need in their gas already.

A fouled plug from a bad injector, or a bad plug wire (that can also lead to plug fouling) may be what's causing your idle problems. Improperly gapped plugs, or a cracked insulator should be the first (free) thing I'd check out. Also check for a crack in your distributor cap, or traces of moisture in there. Replacements are cheap at Honda. When reinstalling your plugs and wires - use a small amount of di-electric compound inside the spark plug boots at each end - I use MotorCraft from Ford because it's cheap and I have had a tube on hand for years.

btw: On a 2nd gen Teg we have, the coolant fan (for the radiator - not the AC) will sometimes run for several minutes after the engine is shut off - usually on a very hot day, or after running it hard. It has stuck on in the run mode more than once, and turning the engine back on, and then immediately turning it off, will cause the fan to quit running - never figured that one out).

 

^^
wow, thanks for all the info.
my car is in the shop and they are trying to diagnose a check engine light and it turns out that my new aftermarket distributor isnt very good. the honda doesnt like it so my mechniac just suggest to get oem (dammit)...

as for the new one, i have a 3 year warranty on it so i dont know what to do? the old one i had on it was the start to my starting and stalling problems but it could possibly be just the cap and rotor. i am not sure what to spend my money on first since i need my smog check by june 10th.

as for the fans, im pretty sure they are okay because i actually heard one of them go on when i was test driving it. i have a thermostat ready to install and ill decide if i want to replace it or not...i might just end up selling thr car. i also have a fan/motor assembly coming on its way.

as for the coolant, my friend just gave me 1.5 gallons worth of prestone antifreeze...so blasted!

i also checked my injectors for clicking (long flat head screwdriver trick), all seem to click well except the 4th cylinder one. it kinda makes a hollow clicking.

anyways, thx for all the info. noit sure what to do with the car because ive probably spent 3x the amount of the car's worth.

 

Not completely true about the wasting your $$. Every once in a while you do need to run one through. I used to say the same crap and with hondas you may be wasting your money. But my mom has a 2000 chevy Tahoe Limited. It out of the blue one day started having a really bad engine vibration(kinda shook the whole truck). Took it to the dealer and the said it had bad gas and to run some injector cleaner. So we did and low and behold the vibration stopped. We changed brands of gas three times because we thought that we kept getting bad gas and diffrent gas stations. But just about once every three months no matter what brand or grade we have been putting it it, it will get that bad engine vibration. Just run some injector cleaner through and it stops. Made me a believer in it