he does make an interesting point though? which IS better for turboing? is it worthwhile turbo-ing a VTEC engine? if not, why?

 

h22a is well worth money spent I love mine before my h22a I had the f22 soch non-vtec. Compare 130hp non-vtec, 160hp vtec to the h22a stock 200hp.

Both motors are good for boost figure whats good for your $$

 

but honestly, sorry to hijack the thread, but wouldn't boost come on pretty strong with how the cams function in a VTEC? or would the turbo be better on a non-VTEC?

 

No because vtec cams are made for N/A something about the valves opening differntly when vtec kicks in which will be counter productive for force induction. Non vtec would be alot better because the valves open and close accordingly to help the force induced air go in the chambers or something. i know its not too much detail but you should get an idea. vtec - all motor. Dont get me wrong youll feel more power but potential to blow motor is greater. no vtec you wont feel vtec pull but you can boost more and longer. hopes that helps . ill get a cheaper h23 and boost the shit out of it. h23 = h22 non vtec.

 

f22b1= v-tec f22b2=non v-tec

 

2.3 Dohc non-vtec he means from a lude.

 

160 hp is an overestimate for a vtec 5gen f22 power output. The 145 listed by honda is even a bit of an over estimate, but at least its closer to the truth.

Does anyone have a concrete answer on if turbo-ing is effected by the honda variable valve timing? I can't see how it would be anymore prone to failure then a non vtec engine assuming it is properly prepped, but I may be missing something.

 

I'm going to make a thread about this

 

OMG, i just scan through and most posts are so vague.

Now here's some quickies:

Accords come with different motors. Generally, 5th Gens I4 has 2 motors, F22b1 (VTEC) and F22b2 (NON-VTEC). (Average)
H22s come in preludes, H22a = JDM, H22a1 = USDM OBDI. (BEST)
H22a4 = OBDII (new gen) - Open deck - good for NA instead.
H23 come in USDM prelude, the JDM one has the F22b DOHC version. (Good)
H23 VTEC come in the JDM ACCORD wagon SIR. (Don't think about it)

GENERAL Boosting facts:

F22 has iron sleeves, lower compression, good for introductory boost. Low budget style. With good conditioned stock internals + custom setup and good tunning, you'll have a safe 300whp daily.
H22 has FRM sleeves (not compatible with aftermarket pistons and rods), High compression. also GOOD FOR BOOST. Intermediate to advance. Tunning is very important. 300whp on stock internal is with ease.

With rebuild, side by side, H22 has more potentials than F22s, H23s. Whoever that dude said VTEC has disadvantage in boosting, you sir are incorrect. Given proper built and tunning, that will last you a long time and NOT blowing a motor by going FI.

Important fact:

#1: TUNNING IS THE KEY. AND SO DOES A GOOD SETUP.
#2: PATIENT and $$. This is not a game for beginner.
#3: READ and ASK people with experience.

I blow myself one motor, not on boost but on juice. Plus I've been working with many people who build cars and tune them, so I speak from experience. Also, the MOTORS alone are NOTHING. You have to look into everything else, a turbo setup, fuel management, drive train, LSD, Tranny, etc. so researching is very important.

btw, I'm very sleepy so I might remember something wrong and mistaken here and there. So hopefully some smart guy will correct my mistakes. Thanks

 

Everything he stated is SO TRUE. But the main thing to remember... ITS ALL ABOUT TUNING. I know of a particular shop here in town that has blown up three h22a on about 7 lbs of boost. THREE preludes 7psi. THATS IDIOTIC. I know someone else about 30 miles away that has pushed one race h22a to just over 14psi on stock internals. His daily driver runs on a consistant 12psi at just over 400whp. (i have dyno sheets dont make me post them and make you look stupid for doubting me) ITS ALL ABOUT TUNING. Good tuning you can turn the boost up. Bad tuning will blow your engine on 2psi.