OMG, i just scan through and most posts are so vague.

Now here's some quickies:

Accords come with different motors. Generally, 5th Gens I4 has 2 motors, F22b1 (VTEC) and F22b2 (NON-VTEC). (Average)
H22s come in preludes, H22a = JDM, H22a1 = USDM OBDI. (BEST)
H22a4 = OBDII (new gen) - Open deck - good for NA instead.
H23 come in USDM prelude, the JDM one has the F22b DOHC version. (Good)
H23 VTEC come in the JDM ACCORD wagon SIR. (Don't think about it)

GENERAL Boosting facts:

F22 has iron sleeves, lower compression, good for introductory boost. Low budget style. With good conditioned stock internals + custom setup and good tunning, you'll have a safe 300whp daily.
H22 has FRM sleeves (not compatible with aftermarket pistons and rods), High compression. also GOOD FOR BOOST. Intermediate to advance. Tunning is very important. 300whp on stock internal is with ease.

With rebuild, side by side, H22 has more potentials than F22s, H23s. Whoever that dude said VTEC has disadvantage in boosting, you sir are incorrect. Given proper built and tunning, that will last you a long time and NOT blowing a motor by going FI.

Important fact:

#1: TUNNING IS THE KEY. AND SO DOES A GOOD SETUP.
#2: PATIENT and $$. This is not a game for beginner.
#3: READ and ASK people with experience.

I blow myself one motor, not on boost but on juice. Plus I've been working with many people who build cars and tune them, so I speak from experience. Also, the MOTORS alone are NOTHING. You have to look into everything else, a turbo setup, fuel management, drive train, LSD, Tranny, etc. so researching is very important.

btw, I'm very sleepy so I might remember something wrong and mistaken here and there. So hopefully some smart guy will correct my mistakes. Thanks