Engine knock Update
are you sure its engine knock?
5th gens are notorious for sounding like sewing machines at idle, even with valve lash adjusted.
check if your timing is right. advanced timing with lower octane fuel can cause pinging.
5th gens are notorious for sounding like sewing machines at idle, even with valve lash adjusted.
check if your timing is right. advanced timing with lower octane fuel can cause pinging.
are you sure its engine knock>>>
It's definitely a knock, and seperate from the 'valve tick' that we hear at idle or during acceleration when the engine is cold. I've heard pinging before, and this is not that either. It can best be described as sounding similar to a rod knock, but not quite as intense.
The car makes a funny grinding, knocking noise around 1.5k-2.5rpm>>>
Yeah, you've got it.
I have always thought that my engine was worn out because of negligience in changing oil but it seems there are other ppl with this "problem">>>
We should give everyone w/ a 5th Accord a little project. Go out, lift your hood, start your engine, rev it up and see if you got it too! We might be surprised...
It's definitely a knock, and seperate from the 'valve tick' that we hear at idle or during acceleration when the engine is cold. I've heard pinging before, and this is not that either. It can best be described as sounding similar to a rod knock, but not quite as intense.
The car makes a funny grinding, knocking noise around 1.5k-2.5rpm>>>
Yeah, you've got it.
I have always thought that my engine was worn out because of negligience in changing oil but it seems there are other ppl with this "problem">>>
We should give everyone w/ a 5th Accord a little project. Go out, lift your hood, start your engine, rev it up and see if you got it too! We might be surprised...
you could just drop the oil pan and check the bearings yourself. any good service manual should help you do this. if it is a spun bearing, you just need to replace the crankshaft, new bearings, and repair the bad rod(along with gaskets and such). this involves pulling the engine and replacing the crank. also you could get a reground crankshaft with oversized bearings for a good price with your core. if you did not want to replace it, just get a new engine.
i have driven a car with a spun bearing which was caused by low oil(blocked oil passage in the crank). it did not loose that much drivability but eventually got really noisy. check out this link, its a toyota cressida site but it has a clip of what rod nock sounds like: http://www.thermactor.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5888
i have driven a car with a spun bearing which was caused by low oil(blocked oil passage in the crank). it did not loose that much drivability but eventually got really noisy. check out this link, its a toyota cressida site but it has a clip of what rod nock sounds like: http://www.thermactor.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5888
Has anyone ever had the opportunity of letting a Honda Factory Rep hear our engines with the knock? They must know about this problem...and are just keeping quiet about it.
Ok so the engine is out of warranty and has over 100K. A Honda is supposed to be a quality engine and this should not happen!
Michael
Ok so the engine is out of warranty and has over 100K. A Honda is supposed to be a quality engine and this should not happen!
Michael
Originally Posted by MichaelT1960
Has anyone ever had the opportunity of letting a Honda Factory Rep hear our engines with the knock? They must know about this problem...and are just keeping quiet about it.
Ok so the engine is out of warranty and has over 100K. A Honda is supposed to be a quality engine and this should not happen!
Michael
Ok so the engine is out of warranty and has over 100K. A Honda is supposed to be a quality engine and this should not happen!
Michael
If it helps,.. I have the same knock. I've heard it since I had about 110k, on the odo., at about 140k , I got fed up with it and had my engine diagnosed. It turns out the engine was performing above average for a car with that mileage.
So I Asked my mechanic if he had an idea where the sound was coming from. He said it was coming from the main bearing, and that If I keep up with all tune ups and such, the motor would last a life time. He also said, that he saw it in almost every Accord he dealt with. I went for a second opinion, and the other mech. said it was a rod or bearing. Both mechs said it would be hard to diagnose, and the cost to diagnose, would match the cost of the replacement of the part/ labor.
I know have 165k on my odo., and the knock has not gotten any louder.
Although, I do use Mobil 1, and Sunoco 94 all the time.
So I Asked my mechanic if he had an idea where the sound was coming from. He said it was coming from the main bearing, and that If I keep up with all tune ups and such, the motor would last a life time. He also said, that he saw it in almost every Accord he dealt with. I went for a second opinion, and the other mech. said it was a rod or bearing. Both mechs said it would be hard to diagnose, and the cost to diagnose, would match the cost of the replacement of the part/ labor.I know have 165k on my odo., and the knock has not gotten any louder.
Although, I do use Mobil 1, and Sunoco 94 all the time.
i too have a 94 vtec EX sedan and my car was making this sound 10k after i bought it (135k) it wasnt noticeable then. now at almost 180k i'm finally pulling it over for good.
i switched from regular oil to castrol synthetic. my mechanic switched it back to regular on accident during a tune up several thousand miles later.
this is when the car began acting up... 160k miles or so. it got so bad i did two valve adjustments by 170k miles but it did not solve the problem.
at 175k i switched back to synthetic as a last resort. it was driving a lot better for a while, but now the noise has gotten so noticeable under acceleration and idle i can't drive it anymore.
at first i thought it was a top-end noise (valves) but after two valve adjustments i realized it was coming from the bottom end.
i also noticed after i shut my car off i would hear a clicking noise every couple of minutes and the sound of oil dripping onto the oil pan. it eventually started making this noise at idle, also (170k).
now with the belts whirring in time for a timing belt change, and the fuel injectors tapping and the engine knocking under any acceleration, it's time to choose between swapping a new f22b1 in and turbo-ing it or putting in a stock h22.
i switched from regular oil to castrol synthetic. my mechanic switched it back to regular on accident during a tune up several thousand miles later.
this is when the car began acting up... 160k miles or so. it got so bad i did two valve adjustments by 170k miles but it did not solve the problem.
at 175k i switched back to synthetic as a last resort. it was driving a lot better for a while, but now the noise has gotten so noticeable under acceleration and idle i can't drive it anymore.
at first i thought it was a top-end noise (valves) but after two valve adjustments i realized it was coming from the bottom end.
i also noticed after i shut my car off i would hear a clicking noise every couple of minutes and the sound of oil dripping onto the oil pan. it eventually started making this noise at idle, also (170k).
now with the belts whirring in time for a timing belt change, and the fuel injectors tapping and the engine knocking under any acceleration, it's time to choose between swapping a new f22b1 in and turbo-ing it or putting in a stock h22.


