Changing rear disc pads-94 accord
#1
Changing rear disc pads-94 accord
I have changed several makes of disc pads before ( toy and Honda), but recently while having my 5k mile tire rotation done at a shop I heard that many of us do-it-yourselfers fail to turn some bleed valve while compressing the caliper and it causes a problem with the brake system.
I looked in the repair section here and read the pad replcament thread on 99-2003 pads, but there was no mention of a bleedvalve which I believe was in the master cylinder area?
Is this mechanic selling BS, or is there a bleedvalve that I need to open while forcing the brake fluid back into the master reservoir?
Thank you
Allen
I looked in the repair section here and read the pad replcament thread on 99-2003 pads, but there was no mention of a bleedvalve which I believe was in the master cylinder area?
Is this mechanic selling BS, or is there a bleedvalve that I need to open while forcing the brake fluid back into the master reservoir?
Thank you
Allen
#2
Kind of a strange explanation, but not completely bogus. Maybe he's afraid to give a clear explanation 'cause you'll do the job yourself. I can guess a couple different things he might have meant...
Honda rear calipers have the auto-adjusting ratchet for the handbrake. You have to twist the pistons, you can't just push them back in. Every so often you see a thread here about someone using a C-clamp & destroying his rear calipers.
Front or rear, when you push/twist the pistons in (to make room for new pads), you push fluid back to the reservoir. Watch that the reservoir doesn't overflow & make a mess. Some mechanics like to suck some fluid out of the reservoir, some like to open the caliper bleed screw. Sometimes it's just a good excuse to bleed the entire brake system with fresh fluid.
Honda rear calipers have the auto-adjusting ratchet for the handbrake. You have to twist the pistons, you can't just push them back in. Every so often you see a thread here about someone using a C-clamp & destroying his rear calipers.
Front or rear, when you push/twist the pistons in (to make room for new pads), you push fluid back to the reservoir. Watch that the reservoir doesn't overflow & make a mess. Some mechanics like to suck some fluid out of the reservoir, some like to open the caliper bleed screw. Sometimes it's just a good excuse to bleed the entire brake system with fresh fluid.
#4
Most have a couple grooves in a cross fashion. Some people have used a large flathead to rotate the piston back in, or you can use a specialty tool that has various prongs to fit into your piston grooves:
#5
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Originally Posted by jschmid
Most have a couple grooves in a cross fashion. Some people have used a large flathead to rotate the piston back in, or you can use a specialty tool that has various prongs to fit into your piston grooves:
BTW, hands down, this is one of the easiest cars to change pads on. Jack car up, take wheel off, remove one bolt, and take out old pads. Press or twist piston back in, and install new pads.
Also, open the brake fluid reservoir, and watch it to make sure it doesn't overflow when you press the pistons back in.
#6
Thanks again.
Just finished. I bought the block, and a chilton's manual just to be safe. It did nothing to help.... but the one thing I got from the newer brake post in another forum here is that you need to rotate the piston horizontal to mate with the pin on the inner pad.
On one side, the one that was squeeling from the tin warning piece, the tool barely fit in. It took me 5 minutes of contorting, trying different cube side combinations to get it started to turn. Once the block fit in it went easy, and the other side went w/o a problem.
Thank you
Allen
Just finished. I bought the block, and a chilton's manual just to be safe. It did nothing to help.... but the one thing I got from the newer brake post in another forum here is that you need to rotate the piston horizontal to mate with the pin on the inner pad.
On one side, the one that was squeeling from the tin warning piece, the tool barely fit in. It took me 5 minutes of contorting, trying different cube side combinations to get it started to turn. Once the block fit in it went easy, and the other side went w/o a problem.
Thank you
Allen
#7
Originally Posted by ALLEN E
Thanks again.
Just finished. I bought the block, and a chilton's manual just to be safe. It did nothing to help.... but the one thing I got from the newer brake post in another forum here is that you need to rotate the piston horizontal to mate with the pin on the inner pad.
On one side, the one that was squeeling from the tin warning piece, the tool barely fit in. It took me 5 minutes of contorting, trying different cube side combinations to get it started to turn. Once the block fit in it went easy, and the other side went w/o a problem.
Thank you
Allen
Just finished. I bought the block, and a chilton's manual just to be safe. It did nothing to help.... but the one thing I got from the newer brake post in another forum here is that you need to rotate the piston horizontal to mate with the pin on the inner pad.
On one side, the one that was squeeling from the tin warning piece, the tool barely fit in. It took me 5 minutes of contorting, trying different cube side combinations to get it started to turn. Once the block fit in it went easy, and the other side went w/o a problem.
Thank you
Allen
#8
Chilton book $20 (?)
Helm book $75
Yeah, it's a big difference. But after having the Helm book, you'll be amazed at how much detail is missing from the cheaper books. Chilton & Haynes are OK if you're only gonna do simple things. Or just to give yourself a better understanding of what the mechanic is doing.
Helm book $75
Yeah, it's a big difference. But after having the Helm book, you'll be amazed at how much detail is missing from the cheaper books. Chilton & Haynes are OK if you're only gonna do simple things. Or just to give yourself a better understanding of what the mechanic is doing.
#10