car shut off on me?
i was cruisin today (Actually on cruise control) and next thing i know i see my speedometer just drop 2 zero then come back up...a few minutes later it did it again...jumped back up...then i see my cruise light go off
next thing u know...i turn the music down and i realize the car is off
so i put it in neutral and start it up and it starts up fine...and the rest of the way home on cruise it worked fine...so it seems like the problem has gone away...but i would like to know what it is b4 i do too much driving...i travel like 100 miles atleast and i cant take the chance of this thing cuttin off on me...any help would be appreciated
next thing u know...i turn the music down and i realize the car is off
so i put it in neutral and start it up and it starts up fine...and the rest of the way home on cruise it worked fine...so it seems like the problem has gone away...but i would like to know what it is b4 i do too much driving...i travel like 100 miles atleast and i cant take the chance of this thing cuttin off on me...any help would be appreciated
As long as I'm here investigating my parking light problem, I might as well ask about this one, too.
My '94 Accord LX sedan has 129k on it. I got it when it had 29k. Twice (at 62k and 116k), I've had to have the distributor replaced because my car did exactly what goodfella's did. I was driving along with no issues when suddenly the tach dropped to zero and then popped back up. Within 50 miles, it did it again for a slightly longer stretch of time. Within 100 miles, it just dropped to zero and didn't come back up. The first time, the shop I took it to (a reputable but expensive place) replaced it with a remanufactured distributor. The second time I took it to them, they replaced it with a new one.
Is this a common problem? How much does it cost to replace, because both times my bill was over $500 and I feel like I got ripped. Did the *whole* distributor need to be replaced?
Thanks.
--Chris
My '94 Accord LX sedan has 129k on it. I got it when it had 29k. Twice (at 62k and 116k), I've had to have the distributor replaced because my car did exactly what goodfella's did. I was driving along with no issues when suddenly the tach dropped to zero and then popped back up. Within 50 miles, it did it again for a slightly longer stretch of time. Within 100 miles, it just dropped to zero and didn't come back up. The first time, the shop I took it to (a reputable but expensive place) replaced it with a remanufactured distributor. The second time I took it to them, they replaced it with a new one.
Is this a common problem? How much does it cost to replace, because both times my bill was over $500 and I feel like I got ripped. Did the *whole* distributor need to be replaced?
Thanks.
--Chris
Sounds like it might be the distributor, but I would check the plug wires, cap, and rotor too before getting a new part. Maybe a loose plug wire connection? The igniter (ignition module) and ignition coil are other possible causes. I think these might be integrated w/ distributor in your car--don't know if they are replaceable separately.
I have a 92 Accord, and the new Honda distributor was $160, and I had to buy a coil and igniter separately. (Coil was bad and igniter soaked with oil from leak inside distrib.) The coil and igniter are probably about the only thing replaceable inside the distrib.
Any of these are easy DIY's if you've got screwdrivers, sockets, and extensions. Just make sure you get your distributor shaft mated correctly with the camshaft. If you get it 180 backwards, it won't start, and you'll get to take it out and put it back in again! If the fit is tight, just gradually press it in by tightening the distrib. bolts. A hammer is not the proper tool.
I wouldn't drive it further than walking distance until it's fixed.
Andy
I have a 92 Accord, and the new Honda distributor was $160, and I had to buy a coil and igniter separately. (Coil was bad and igniter soaked with oil from leak inside distrib.) The coil and igniter are probably about the only thing replaceable inside the distrib.
Any of these are easy DIY's if you've got screwdrivers, sockets, and extensions. Just make sure you get your distributor shaft mated correctly with the camshaft. If you get it 180 backwards, it won't start, and you'll get to take it out and put it back in again! If the fit is tight, just gradually press it in by tightening the distrib. bolts. A hammer is not the proper tool.
I wouldn't drive it further than walking distance until it's fixed.
Andy


