I have heard of people doing that. I plan on sleeveing my h22 and boosting. My goal is around 300 horsepower as well. I have seen and read about several h22 boosted above 5oo horsepower. Now the only thing I don't know about is VTEC. I have heard it is better to boost non-vtec engines. Not sure if this is true so don't take my word for it. Yeah it does cost alot. Just for the jdm h22a and lsd tranny and ecu cost 2450, shipped. Then on top of that I had to replace various sensors, new tining belt , water pump, other assorted belts, new distributor, plugs, plug wires, new axles, hasport engine mount, new radiator and a clutch. Total for everything 5792.30. Oh and whatever engine you decide get new fuel injectors as well. Three of mine are poopin out so my h22 isn't 100% percent right now. Plus I am using my accord CAI. I have a prelude one on the way. It is really up to you my friend. I went h22 because they are more powerful out of the box+VTEC. Maybe in a couple of years hte h23 VTEC will become more popular and the aftermarket scene will catch up. Like I said before, I know you want to be different but in this case it is better to stick with what is popular. THe h22 is a badass motor in an accord anyways it will give you a Hard-on. As for boreing out the h22, I am sure it can be done but at what cost to engine integrity?

 

i did my manual conversion myself and it costed roughly $1g with mostly new parts and labor i did myself.

 

well i figured that it'd cost about 6K for the parts, maybe if i have a vtec controler installed and set the vtec to a point before the boost spools it should be fine, any ideas?

i mean the only negitive i could see is the vtec kicking in when the turbo spools and giving too much of a kick to the engine to fast without the cooling action of nitrous

 

kinda defeats the purpose but with the amount of money being spent.
You can buy a 93+ civic HB and drop in a B18c and with about 8psi your looking at a possible 270hp....Will feel much more powerful in a smaller car.

 

no, that would defeat the point.
the h22 is a much larger engine compared to the b18, and it is not everyday you see a boosted h22 in an accord because most are fine with just the swap. (there are alot of hilly areas around here too)

the accord is stylish, esspecially the 94-97 models (tho i do give props....errr i dont like that word, but i'll use it anyway, to the new civics) with it's nice edges and curves, and is a much more handsome sedan from the generation.
the accord is also a great base for an all around car with it's suspension and handling, aswell as it's stability during all kinds of weather. not to mention i wanted to be original for my area, and i dont see many h22 accords around, tho i do think they are around (i live in the bridgeport/hartford area of CT)

i'm only looking for a 300 at the crank starting point, i mean eventually i might push it past the 400 point with a linear nitrous flow or more boost (i do not condone the use of nitrous in shots, but can stand it's use in slow increments up the rpm scale for short periods of time)

i am interested in the beauty of a car as well as it's performance, and i dont slap on a coffee can exhaust to be loud, or take out my cats and pretend my car is a boat.... it is about an experience, so just stop with the negative "this project has no point" attitude, though i do understand your argument.

hondas are not race cars. (if you were to do half the mods people do to a honda to bring it up in speed to a real powerful engine it would whip the hell out of any inline 4, not counting the accord 6cyl ) but i'm not going to hate people who race them either

 

okay, let see:

you want to achieve 300 hp, that's not hard to do. As always there're 3 definitive path F22b, H23, and H22

Engines / Pros / Cons:

F22b1 / Cheap, save money from swap, inexpensive, cost less, strong bottom end, low compression / Smaller, SOHC, less available performance parts, limited power.

H23 / DOHC. inexpensive, high torque, low compression / limited performance parts (but more than f22b1), weak internals such as FRM Sleeves, etc.

H22a / DOHC, high HP, many available parts, greater potential than others, closed deck / expensive, low torque, weak internals such as FRM sleeves, high compression, etc.

300hp - My suggestion is just use the swap money to rebuild the F22 and boost it. And use the rest for tranny rebuild (for Auto - look into www.leveten.com) or manual swap

My estimated cost for your project will be around 5000 bucks:
tranny rebuild or swap = 1500
Engine minor rebuild = 1500
average turbo = 2000 (DIY turbo, don't buy kit.)

if you aim for much higher goal like me (at least 500whp+), I suggest you go with H22 swap.

A complete H22 rebuild from top to bottom would run you somewhere near $4000. So here's the breakdown of my project:

H22 complete swap - 1500 (unless I can find it much cheaper elsewhere since I'm rebuilding from top-bottom)
Engine Parts - 4000
Tranny Parts - 2000
Labor - 3000
Custom Turbo kit - 3500
Interior - 2000
Sound - 2000
Exterior - 2000

rough total cost - 20,000

if you have to ask about my H22 rebuild.

Machinary:

1/. Sleeves Job - Either Darton or AEBS Bulletproof Sleeving
2/. Port and Polish
3/. overbore, etc.

Parts:

1/. Crower Turbo Camshaft
2/. Pauter X-Beam Rods
3/. Weisco Pistons
4/. Weisco Piston Ring
5/. Stage 4-5 Axles
6/. UNORTHODOX RACING ULTRA-TR Adjustable Cam Gear
7/. SKUNK 2 Low Compression Exhaust/Intake Valve Set
8/. CROWER H22 Engine - Dual Valve Spring Set - Eibach
9/. CROWER H22 Engine - Titanium Retainer Set (Fits Crower spring)
10/. Cometic MLS Head Gasket
11/. Aebs Headstuds H22
12/. Aebs Mainstuds H22


Commencing date: January 28, 2005
Finish date: I aimed to finish before July 28, 2005
That would leave me 6 months for everything. Hopefully I'd have enough time and money to finish it.

Oh yea, h23/vtec is not worth it, save the money for something extra unless you have abandon $$$$.

 

What Poo said.

 

now see, thats more like it.

i heard all of that stuff before and kinda put that together, i was just sorta looking for someone to help me double check, thanks alot man and great parts list, hope all goes well

 

what kind of exhaust should i use with my h22 swap? i want unrestrictive, yet stock looking and sounding (i believe i will use a qtec cutoff somewhere to relieve cat pressure at the track ) all i can find are 60mm pipes and i thought i'd want at least 2.5 inch pipes (i belive 60mm is 2.25) not to mention what kind of downpipe would i need to connect my turbo to the exhaust?

REMINDER: i have a 96 gen5 4door

 

Not stock looking but I like My Tanabe Medallion exhaust, nice and throaty!