Would it be in my best interest to pull the motor to change my oil pump? I have the stock d15b7 in a 93 dx sedan.

 

I guess if you have the tools to pull the motor i.e. engine hoist, and maybe an engine stand. Then it would be a good idea. It really isn't that hard to pull a motor from a civic. This way you might be able to go through and replace any parts that may need attention.

 

thanks, and thanks for not telling me to throw my motor away and get a b series

 

well if you're gonna pull it out just spend 400 bucks and get yourself a d16z6 or y8, it's a cheap swap and it'll be a big step up from what you have now. You can go FI later or something and still be way cheaper than a 2000-3000 b series swap. My Y8 is putting down 176 whp 173 torque on only 8 psi. With a few other mods it's gonna be a 200 whp car.

 

You don't have to pull the motor to change the oil pump. You can change an oil pump in a day

 

Oil pump can be reasonably accessed while inside the car.

 

i just figured it would be easier to pull the motor and change the oil pump timing belt, whatever else. it looks like a tight squeeze to get to those with them in the car.i have to take loose a mount anyway, dont i?

 

you can pull a motor and put it back in, in a day also...at least I can. Im sure alot of these other guys could too.

 

would my knuckles appreciate it if i pulled the motor? i want the least amount of blood shed.

 

It took me a day to pull and a day to install without any help. The hardest part is to get the engine level on the hoist when you're re-installing it. I could have saved a shload of time had I left all of the wiring harness on each engine. For some reason I removed every electrical connection and the wiring harness instead of just unplugging the bulkhead connectors. Stupid, stupid me. I could also have saved a lot more time if I hadn't hidden the motor mount bolts from myself :doh:

I think it's easier to drain the gearbox and pull the axles, and remove both the engine and transmission at once than it is to un-bolt the bell housing and separate it from the transmission, so if your clutch has a lot of miles on it, you could buy a clutch kit for a D15B7 for $99 and change it while you have it out. It makes sense. Could save you a lot of money later. Just remember that the shift linkage is connected with a non-reusable dowel pin, and it's a pain in the ass to get out without an air-chisel/punch attachment. It takes a split second to do it with air tools, but you could be down there hammering with a punch for hours to get it loose, and that can't be good for the linkage.

I got all of my D15B7 timing goodies, water pump, and tensioner for under $120. Adjusted the valves (free), swapped clutches ($99), replaced all of the coolant hoses and vacuum lines ($40), so basically I won't need to do anything to it for a bazillion miles. I found doing it on an engine stand to be a breeze. You'll definitely learn a lot.