It took me a day to pull and a day to install without any help. The hardest part is to get the engine level on the hoist when you're re-installing it. I could have saved a shload of time had I left all of the wiring harness on each engine. For some reason I removed every electrical connection and the wiring harness instead of just unplugging the bulkhead connectors. Stupid, stupid me. I could also have saved a lot more time if I hadn't hidden the motor mount bolts from myself :doh:

I think it's easier to drain the gearbox and pull the axles, and remove both the engine and transmission at once than it is to un-bolt the bell housing and separate it from the transmission, so if your clutch has a lot of miles on it, you could buy a clutch kit for a D15B7 for $99 and change it while you have it out. It makes sense. Could save you a lot of money later. Just remember that the shift linkage is connected with a non-reusable dowel pin, and it's a pain in the ass to get out without an air-chisel/punch attachment. It takes a split second to do it with air tools, but you could be down there hammering with a punch for hours to get it loose, and that can't be good for the linkage.

I got all of my D15B7 timing goodies, water pump, and tensioner for under $120. Adjusted the valves (free), swapped clutches ($99), replaced all of the coolant hoses and vacuum lines ($40), so basically I won't need to do anything to it for a bazillion miles. I found doing it on an engine stand to be a breeze. You'll definitely learn a lot.