No point in making them look good, but I can definitley see the point of turbo and nitrous on a geo, leaving it looking stock. :naughty: 3-cyl ownerage.

 

:werd: How much did that cost you to get the valves adjusted?

 

Someone posted on how to do valve adjustments on D series motors a little bit ago (Gone in the server fix) I didn't do it cause it said D16Y8, it's close to D16z6 but not sure about the valves. Maybe I should try to precise the timing belt and that's all.

 

true....would be a REALLY good sleeper...something no one would expect and would really be great to actually beat someone with a geo... that'd be something to brag about

 

I've got a friend how has a 10 sec. Talon TSI, and he told me he saw this guy one time at the track who squeezed in a worked turbo DSM motor into a Geo Metro....you wanna talk about sleeper

 

The $$$ of a valve adjustment varies dependent on your mechanical ability. If you're not mechanically inclined, it will cost you whatever a garage or stealership decides to charge you (YMMV). If you are mechanically inclined, it might cost you

1. Set of feeler gauges $5
2. Valve cover sealant (re-use your gasket if it's not leaking) $5
3. Haynes manual for step-by-step instruction and specifications $15

Most 5g Honda ownerage manuals say to have them adjusted every 15k miles. I think that's too often. Maybe check them that often, but I doubt they'd go out of spec that fast.

Tight valves kill motors, so you'd better be comfortable with feeler gauges, and know exactly how they work. You want to do this on a cold valvetrain, and you want the feeler gauges to very loosely drag between the valve stem and the rocker. You're better off on the higher side of the spec than the lower. For instance, the exhaust spec may be .009-.011"... set them for .010 or .011". Treat the intake valves the same. That lash is necessary for thermal expansion.

You don't need to drain ANY fluids or disconnect the battery. It takes about an hour after you... get the valve cover off, jack the front of the car up using jackstands to support it, remove the driver's side wheel so you can turn the crank manually with a socket wrench & extensions, and remove the top portion of the timing cover so you can see the cam timing marks. The rest is gravy. All you need to adjust them with is a 10mm box wrench, and a flat-head screwdriver. Again, follow your service manual for instructions. That part is the most important part of the whole procedure (following the steps in your manual, that is...). Also, don't overtighten your valve cover bolts when you're putting it back together.

The last time I ever paid for a valve adjustment, it was $180. I've never done that to myself again since because it's really easy after you've done it the first time. I'm sure you can get it cheaper in some places, but if I were a mechanic, that's about what I'd charge you for it.

 

someone DID do it, it was in SCC, like two months ago.

i think it was a 13 second car. they were like "don't laugh, this car is probably faster than yours" or something like that.

 

Yeah, I remember that. They also had one in the contestants for the ultimate street car challenge that was a turbo/n2o 3-banger and looked totally stock w/maroon paint and 13" wheels

 

It was me that made the DIY. Here is the link
http://www.angelfire.com/biz7/aiperf...djustment.html

hope that helps ya out

 

I would be SOOO embarrassed if i got beat by a turbo geo...i mean any other car is disappointing but by a geo? Man I prolly wouldn't be able to show my face near that track again, seriously!