I've got an h22 prelude engine sittin in my garage just waiting to be dropped into my 99 civic ex. Because the h22 is 150 more lbs. than my D-series engine now, i know i'm gonna need new suspension to hold the weight. Does anyone have any suggestions as to what parts i should look into?

 

Call Eibach and they can offer really good advise. I'm pretty sure they can offer you a custom spring. There are other company's that offer "swap springs" but I can't remember the name.

I'd go Ground Control Coilover with custom spring rate and some adjustable struts.

 

get integra spring rates.

 

shouldn't he get prelude spring rates?

 

no

 

make sure you get anti-sway bars too. i know of a post that talks about all that you should look into, but it's on jdmcivic.com and you have to register for it. if you want, i can copy the whole post in here.

 

Go ahead and post it, i'd like to see what all needs to be done

 

would coilovers help?

 

Probably. That's why Ground Controls were suggested for their custom spring rates.

 

ok, this is from the jdmcivic.com forums where a guy posted about his h22a civic (95 coupe).

H-Series Engine Swap Guide

There are many sources and debates about H-Series vs. B-Series. This is meant to be biased towards the H22A, and towards those who are considering an H22A swap.

Considering an engine has enough torque to move a car, it’s horsepower that wins the quarter mile race, not torque. With that being said, a B18C5 with puts out 195-200 horsepower will usually win an H22A which puts out 190-200 horsepower. The reason is because the horsepower to weight ratio is better for the B18C5 since the H22A engine is heavier. Though the H22A may start off the line quicker, the B18C5 makes its horsepower because it can rev higher than the H22A and take advantage of gearing.

One question often asked is does the torque make up for the extra weight carried by the H22A. My answer is yes. I’ve seen H22A in 92-95 Civics run mid-high 13s with your basic bolt-ons, which is also common with a B18C5 swap. Most people cannot afford a B18C5. You can get a complete H22A swap done for less than $4,000. Just the B18C5 engine alone is at least $4,000, so most people opt for a B18C1 and build it a little. Some people run mid-high 13s with just a stock B18C1 bottom end, with a B16A head and some internals, whether JDM CTR/ITR or aftermarket. By the time you add all that up, you might have spent more than what an H22A swap would have cost, not to mention, you built it a little already. The H22A is STOCK, with still a lot more potential to go.

The B-Series makes a good choice if your building a full race motor leaving a decrease in reliability in daily driven. Many people also stroke the B-Series or build an LS/VTEC or CRV/VTEC, increasing torque levels, but at the same time, sacrificing reliability. The B-Series has a lot of advantages since it can rev so high.

So why the H22A? There is just something to say about the brute power of the H22a. Just a drop in swap you can pull low 13’s with bolt ons in a hatch and good tires. Add a mild street build and you’re running mid-high 12s. All without sacrificing the reliability you would get with the B-Series to achieve those times in an all motor package. Also added advantages in the H22A is the factory balanced crankshaft and the deck block design on OBDI models.

There are also myths about the H22A only being good for going in a straight line. There are many people out there who swap a motor first, then build the suspension. If you do that with an H22A, of course you’re not going to like the handling. Most people who do any type of engine swap will likely build their suspension afterwards. Not many people stop at just the engine swap. With the H22A, you just have to reverse the order. Build the suspension first, and then do the engine swap. The main factor is using Integra springs to better support the weight. You also need to get anti-sway bars, and LSD would help also, since most people who are serious about cars usually get LSD anyways.

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INFORMATION ON SWAPPING H22A into a CIVIC

BOLT-IN KITS
I know most people recommend HASport, but I like HCP Engineering. For an EK Civic, HCP makes the EK-22 Race. This uses four motor mounts. All other brand names use three motor mounts. Under extreme drag racing, if you use three motor mounts, a lot of stress is placed on the rear mount, and it has been known to rip out. An H22A in a Honda Prelude uses four motor mounts. Don’t you think you deserve the same treatment in your Honda Civic? For EG Civics, having a custom front cross member brace can be done by many people. Dr. Charles Madrid is one person who does it as far as where I’m from. HASport uses 3 motor mounts.

A/C and P/S:
HCP Engineering makes a kit that allows you to keep A/C with an A/C bracket. However, I haven’t yet worked with those so I can’t give you information on it. Either way, I say screw it. With all that power, why would you want P/S? As for A/C its added weight, plus it takes away power from your engine.

AXLES:
Many people are worried about their axles breaking. Well duh! Most people use GSR Integra axles for this swap, and they were originally intended for a B18C, which produces 127-130 ft-lbs of torque (give or take), not intended for the H22A which produces 156 – 163 ft-lbs of torque (give or take). Also, since the H22A sits differently in the engine bay, the axle sits at a slight angle, putting more stress on it. Don’t skimp on axles, get a set of Level 2 hybrid axles from Drive Shaft Shop (www.driveshaftshop.com). There are also other manufacturers out there that product stronger axles as well. There is one advantage. however, of using GSR Integra axles. If you drop clutch all the time, the weakest link is the axle. It’s better to break the axles (GSR Integra axles cost about $160-$200/set) than to break something else such as a transmission, flywheel, clutch etc. if you end up using stronger axles.

SHIFTER:
Yes, you have to modify the shifter in the Civic. The H22A Hydraulic Transmission use shift linkage. Holes need to be drilled in order to make everything work. Again, it’s not really as bad as most people think.

ECU:
You can use basically one of two ECUs on the H22A. The P13 (Prelude ECU) or the P72 (GSR ECU). You can use a chipped P28 or a chipped P30, but you will lose control of the butterflies on the H22A Intake Manifold. On a stock H22A, the P13 gives you more mid-range power. The P72 really lags when VTEC kicks in, but after 5000RPM, the power surges and gives you more top end than a P13. If you had to pick one, I’d pick the P72. The P13 also looks for an EGR Valve and the P72 doesn’t. If you use the P72, you can use an EGR blocking plate to increase performance. If you can afford it, I would get a P72 w/ Hondata, or at least a P28 w/ Hondata.

HEADER:
The H22A produces a lot of power. A DC Sports Header, in my opinion, doesn’t do much for the H22A. It uses a 2.25” collector, which I believe is way too small. Only advantage is that it’s CARB Legal, if you happen to care about cops pulling you over. I recommend the Hot Shot Header made for the H22A Civic swap and have a muffler shop do the custom piping, or use an AN-R Header which uses a 2.5” collector.

COOLING:
I’ve seen a few people use their stock Honda Civic radiators to cool down that big 2.2L engine. Many people get away with it too! I would recommend using a stock Del Sol VTEC radiator or buy a PWR or Fluidyne Radiator w/ Dual Cores. There also isn't as much space for the fan. You either have to take off the shroud, or buy a thin radiator fan like the FAL.

SUSPENSION:
Get some anti-sway bars, and if you can afford it, an LSD transmission. With those added goodies, you will wonder why people complain so much about handling since you’re driving around in your car without any problems. Also, since the H22A sits lower than B-Series engine, DO NOT lower your car more than 1.5”. Use springs such as the Eibach Pro-Kit to keep your ride running smooth. If you lower it too much, the down pipe will always scrape.