IF you can lock up your tires, then your brakes are good enough. It means you're outbraking the ability of your tires, and you tires are now the thing holding you back from stopping sooner, except in my case I already have good tires.

If I need to lock them up I can, If i need to do other heavy braking, i can. My brakes are fully capable for anything short of fulltime track racing.

its hydrolic

 

It's mechanicaly operated hydraulic. You do realize that no matter how horrible brakes are on a car you could lock them up on anything. And yes even how much force you put on the pedal is going to affect the pressure you'll have pushing against your caliper piston. Why do you think they put a brake booster and a lever with a ratio of like 10-1 for your brake pedal. Have you ever tried to stop your car without your power brakes you'll see what I mean about the force of your leg.

 

Thanks. I know that.

 

I'm just trying to point out that if your brakes are locking up you got ****ty brakes. If you want brakes that lock up get e.b.c. pads they'll lock up on you so good you'll be doing 360's around every corner.

 

exactly, you get better pads for higher friction before the lock up. just because you can lock up your brakes that does not mean your brakes are good enough. brakes pads like ebc will give you a harder initial bite than stock pads (btw ebc sucks, it ruined my 12.4inch rotors)

the reason why I recommed only pads is because he was planning on drag racing (hopefully at the track) and if he upgrades his engine at all it would be nice to have more braking power available

 

i have ****ty stock ex brakes and yeah i can "lock them up", and my tires are the only thing holding me back from stoping sooner.. does that mean my braking system lacks the need to bve upgraded... i agree that its a poor display of the quality of the brake system.

 

In my opinion, EX brakes with good pads are good for 13's. After that, I'm scared. Yes, I did just relate brakes to quarter mile times. Problem?

I'd like 4-piston calipers with 12" front rotors but HEY, not everyone needs it.

I'll probably just switch over to an EM1 setup or whatever ...

 

Yes, I plan to do a b18 swap in the near future for my 98 dx hatch. So you guys just recommend that I get different brake pads? not bigger calipers?

 

The problem w/ pads that have big initial bite is the fact that they are primarily metalic which means more money spent on replacing rotors. Also repeated highspeed stops mean more heat and metal pads handle heat better but rotors don't handle the pads i.e. warping. Be careful.

Go w/ Super Blue fluid or Ford Superduty fluid braided lines and upgrade to OEM size aftermarket rotors and a good composite pad and you will have all the stopping power you need.

That is the set up that I have on my 240 that I road race ::repeated stops from 100+ mph speeds:: And I don't have any probs w/ lockup or substanial fade

Hope this helped

 

You know I always had a problem with rotors getting warped and I changed to brembo solid rotors, and haven't had a problem since, all though I know brembo's are good rotors, but I don't believe it had anything to do with that. I never let anyone touch my wheels on my car anymore tires brakes or nothing, because any shop you take it to will tighten your wheels with an impact gun, and in my opinion that is exactly why my rotors would be warped all the time, because I never did any high speed braking. Remember using an impact gun then torque them to 80 ft lbs only checks that they are at least 80 you have to make sure the bolt still moves before it clicks on the tourque wrench.