well I am doing an integra brake swap on my 95 civic and I ended up using autozone rebuilt rear calipers (which does not include the moving arms and pins). Once everything was assembled the pads did not go in easy and once they were in, after a lot of grunting, the arms were not moveable anymore. The fronts are perfect and move freely with ease. The rears were perfect before the pads went in. Is it supposed to be like this or is something obvious wrong? I left it the way it is and place it back over the rotor and it is difficult to turn but possible. Anyways, the rotor won't be an issue after the pads break in a bit, but will they still bind after some driving or should they be free right off the bat like the fronts? Please help. I want this done before the weekend so everything can go in on the weekend. I also posted this on another forum and got zero responses.
Regards,
steve

 

did u greese the pins and any other moving parts?

This will make a huge difference.

 

pins yes, but I thought I read something somewhere NOT to grease the metal tabs and everything else that slides, even though it would make it a hell of a lot smoother. I think it was about the grease melting and ending up on the rotor or pad and screwing up the pad, but I can't be sure. If it's ok then I'll try again. Like I said, the pins were greased and without the pads, everything glides smoothly, but once the pads are crammed in there, there is too much pressure on the pad spring and the metal hardware. Thansk for the quick reply.
Steve

 

Did you line up the slots on the piston with the little bump on the inner pad?

 

I will check the inner pad tonight, but no I did not pay attention to that at all. My problem was with fitting the outer pad. Would a bad fit on the inner pad cause the outer pad not to fit properly? Also, I just looked up the parts diagram and noticed that the sliding pins are different parts numbers. One site mentions that the upper pin is black and the lower is gold. I didn't even bother keeping them in orientation when I took them out, cleaned them and then reinstalled them. I will check that as well, but could that be affecting anything, or would have not gone back together at all if I mixed the pins up? Thanks again.
Steve

 

Well, now I don't know what the problem is. I rebuilt the rear with the pins in the correct positions and I noticed that even without the pads installed it doesn't slide properly. It does if the two bolts that go into the sliding pins are loose, but as soon as I put any tension on them, it locks up everything. Nothing looks bent so what do I do know? The pads are still a tight fit, but after looking at it some more, I don't think that it will cause my problem at all. The sliding pins are straight, but should I assume they are not? What about the whole arm part that moves? Could that be bent or something. Any input is appreciated. I spent a lot on rebuilding everything before I put it back in and don't want to be screwed now.
THanks
Steve

 

arms and pins? i dont quite know what you're talking about. unless you're talking about the pins that the caliper slides on.

the calipers dont slide up like on the fronts. you need to remove both bolts that hold the caliper in. If you put the caliper in a strange position it will cause to caliper to compress because of the ebrake cable.

I would try to compress brake piston more, by twisting it clockwise. And make sure the ebrake is off. wheel should at least spin. It shouldn't be tight.

 

Pins are the sliding pins for the bracket/arm/caliper that slides back and forth.

I am using the word caliper to describe the entire setup and bracket or arm for the part that glides along the pins.

The whole thing is not even mounted yet so no ebrake cabel in the equation.

I will be trying new sliding pins today from Napa who also ordered me a complete replacement if that doesn't work. I think something is bent (either the sliding pins or the bracket arm itself that slides) because my other rear caliper is stiff, but moves a hell of lot more freely. Thanks again for the input. I will clarify my progress as I figure more out, but anyone with any other suggestions please chime in. For waht it's worth, I contacted the local acura dealer and they said they just replace the whole caliper assembly with a reman one instead of rebuilding it themselves. It looks like I may end up doing that anyways after all this trouble!

Piston is in all the way and lined up properly, but has nothing to do with the way th earm is sliding back and forth because it happens even without the pads installed.

 

replaced the sliding pins and that solved all seizing/binding issues. Got 4 for both rears for 25$ instead of 200$ for both rears remanufactured. Thanks for all the input and hanging in there.
Steve