How? Tony, David, Schmoo, Eric? hmm?

 

Anything posted in this thread will be concidered theory, based on facts.

this is the method that i believe works well & i've had no problems with it...


let it warm up & cool down a few times while it's in the garage as you check it over for leaks.

then take it out for a drive, b4 u hammer on it make sure u can still shift through the gears & everything is running properly.

then use second & third, run them out the rpms till about 5 or 6k & let it rev it self down, don't hit the brakes & push the clutch pedal in coz u'll be defeating the purpose. When you let the engine rev down, it's allowing the oil rings to do a good job pulling all the oil & everything off the cylinder walls.

i'd say drive it around for about a half hour all cautious like & letting the engine very in rpm's a lot, but basicly just get out there & put it under load so that the rings will wear a little & seat them selves.


i know someone will come in here & tell you to baby it, but to be totally honest with u, if it's gonna break, it's gonna break... i run the hell out of my motor & i treat it right when it comes to maintenence (changing fluids). It likes it!

anyways, change your oil the first 50miles to get all the assembly junk & any possible break in shavings out of it.

do the same at 500 / 1000 & then your normal cycle

 

DONT BABY IT, its one of the worse things u can do, the first 20 miles is the most critical, Then when u still have some cross hatching to "file" the rings to get a 360 seal. This is what i used on David Sol motor....http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

 

So will the exhaust smoke like crazy until the rings seat themselves?

 

drive it hard and seat the fuckin rings....anybody who tells you to baby it should get kicked in the nuts.

 

your cylinders are perfectly round (you had it bored & honed)

you should have minimal smoke!



it might smoke a little till the pistons warm up & expand to the correct clearances (normal for forged internals).

 

So basically burp the coolant system then drive it for the ring seating?

And will non-synthetic 10w30 do the job?

 

I would use 5w30, but thats me.

 

Eh, I'll try it. During the summer if I ran 5w30 and it was like 90 degrees outside the oil would work its way through my turbo seals. Now that it's a little cooler out it might not.

 

personally, if it was a rebuilt motor i would have it broken in on the dyno