itr motor in a bubble back
Thread Starter
TeGGy.WrEcKEr7
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
From: starthroy ontario
yes by black i mmean carbon fibre i want hood fenders mirrors and hatch try and litin it up as much as possible i want some show and go iwant a nice loking car but abl;e to keep its own on the track. hows bout do i find information on the p30 or if u can explain the diffrent types to me.any advice on turbo tires and suspension. thanks jamie
been there done that
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 30,637
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From: 916
just cause you're canadian doesnt mean you have to type like a douche. please use proper grammar and punctuation so we can understand your posts.
cf body panels arent going to make a whole lot of difference. if you want to drop weight, remove all sound deadening material, seats, spare and jack, and start an exercise routine.
cf body panels arent going to make a whole lot of difference. if you want to drop weight, remove all sound deadening material, seats, spare and jack, and start an exercise routine.
JDM whore
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
From: Springhill Florida
I am offended don't call my hatch a bubbleback! But back on topic my friend has a built type R swap with a 50 trim turbo setup on it in his CRX and the car runs mid 10's but spun till about 3/4 down the track with slicks, the whole problem with wanting to know 1/4 miles times is since the car is FWD you are just gonna have a hard time catching traction.
Power by Uncle Ben's Rice
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,343
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From: Upstate NY
Nix the idea of the itr...overpriced and really not too much better than a jdm b18c...you can save yourself about 2g's in buying a jdm swaps and building the internals...bore the block 83mm, sleeve it down to stock bore with darton sleeves, it'll then hold 25-30 psi on a turbo. use pauter rods (good to 1000 hp) and cp low compression pistons 8:1:0 (don't use high compression on a turbo/supercharger application it will blow your shit up) replace oil pump while you're down there...Next, use the head that came on gsr motor, fuck the
b16 head, they are high comp engines...skunk2 allows you to send them your head, they will do the port polish, you buy their pro series 2 camshafts
(skunk2 pro series1 beat the buddy club3 cam) retainers and valves and they will assemble it all and you'll have the best head for a honda engine for around $2000. And if you're looking for a track car, the b16 tranny has the shortest gears so it won't be good for a road trip but it'll get you down the track the faster than a gsr tranny... As for the motor mounts...you will have to buy new ones and depending on the year car you are putting it into, you may have to do a cable/hydro swap...not hard, comes with the kit. You can spend tons of money on hasports, or you can spend alot less money for the same thing from avid racing on ebay. As for the wiring...you can make your harness work, but it's a headache...or for $125 RYWIRE.com will rewire your harness and have it back to you within a week with new plugs on it and save you the time and headache...Also, they sell conversion harnesses to make it OBD1 (best because it's not restrictive and can easily be munipulated with hondata, chrome, jun, mugen ect.) put a whalbro 255 pump and some denso 750cc injectors with AEM EMS and it sounds like you got a race car to me...The was skunk2's basic setup with their k20 and they ran a 9.46 1/4 mile...I have a feeling this would be very close to it...with the money you saved on not buying the itr, you could easily build a street/strip car that will have you shelling out money every weekend for new tires.
b16 head, they are high comp engines...skunk2 allows you to send them your head, they will do the port polish, you buy their pro series 2 camshafts
(skunk2 pro series1 beat the buddy club3 cam) retainers and valves and they will assemble it all and you'll have the best head for a honda engine for around $2000. And if you're looking for a track car, the b16 tranny has the shortest gears so it won't be good for a road trip but it'll get you down the track the faster than a gsr tranny... As for the motor mounts...you will have to buy new ones and depending on the year car you are putting it into, you may have to do a cable/hydro swap...not hard, comes with the kit. You can spend tons of money on hasports, or you can spend alot less money for the same thing from avid racing on ebay. As for the wiring...you can make your harness work, but it's a headache...or for $125 RYWIRE.com will rewire your harness and have it back to you within a week with new plugs on it and save you the time and headache...Also, they sell conversion harnesses to make it OBD1 (best because it's not restrictive and can easily be munipulated with hondata, chrome, jun, mugen ect.) put a whalbro 255 pump and some denso 750cc injectors with AEM EMS and it sounds like you got a race car to me...The was skunk2's basic setup with their k20 and they ran a 9.46 1/4 mile...I have a feeling this would be very close to it...with the money you saved on not buying the itr, you could easily build a street/strip car that will have you shelling out money every weekend for new tires.
Member
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 88
Likes: 0
Nix the idea of the itr...overpriced and really not too much better than a jdm b18c...you can save yourself about 2g's in buying a jdm swaps and building the internals...bore the block 83mm, sleeve it down to stock bore with darton sleeves, it'll then hold 25-30 psi on a turbo. use pauter rods (good to 1000 hp) and cp low compression pistons 8:1:0 (don't use high compression on a turbo/supercharger application it will blow your shit up) replace oil pump while you're down there...Next, use the head that came on gsr motor, fuck the
b16 head, they are high comp engines...skunk2 allows you to send them your head, they will do the port polish, you buy their pro series 2 camshafts
(skunk2 pro series1 beat the buddy club3 cam) retainers and valves and they will assemble it all and you'll have the best head for a honda engine for around $2000. And if you're looking for a track car, the b16 tranny has the shortest gears so it won't be good for a road trip but it'll get you down the track the faster than a gsr tranny... As for the motor mounts...you will have to buy new ones and depending on the year car you are putting it into, you may have to do a cable/hydro swap...not hard, comes with the kit. You can spend tons of money on hasports, or you can spend alot less money for the same thing from avid racing on ebay. As for the wiring...you can make your harness work, but it's a headache...or for $125 RYWIRE.com will rewire your harness and have it back to you within a week with new plugs on it and save you the time and headache...Also, they sell conversion harnesses to make it OBD1 (best because it's not restrictive and can easily be munipulated with hondata, chrome, jun, mugen ect.) put a whalbro 255 pump and some denso 750cc injectors with AEM EMS and it sounds like you got a race car to me...The was skunk2's basic setup with their k20 and they ran a 9.46 1/4 mile...I have a feeling this would be very close to it...with the money you saved on not buying the itr, you could easily build a street/strip car that will have you shelling out money every weekend for new tires.
b16 head, they are high comp engines...skunk2 allows you to send them your head, they will do the port polish, you buy their pro series 2 camshafts
(skunk2 pro series1 beat the buddy club3 cam) retainers and valves and they will assemble it all and you'll have the best head for a honda engine for around $2000. And if you're looking for a track car, the b16 tranny has the shortest gears so it won't be good for a road trip but it'll get you down the track the faster than a gsr tranny... As for the motor mounts...you will have to buy new ones and depending on the year car you are putting it into, you may have to do a cable/hydro swap...not hard, comes with the kit. You can spend tons of money on hasports, or you can spend alot less money for the same thing from avid racing on ebay. As for the wiring...you can make your harness work, but it's a headache...or for $125 RYWIRE.com will rewire your harness and have it back to you within a week with new plugs on it and save you the time and headache...Also, they sell conversion harnesses to make it OBD1 (best because it's not restrictive and can easily be munipulated with hondata, chrome, jun, mugen ect.) put a whalbro 255 pump and some denso 750cc injectors with AEM EMS and it sounds like you got a race car to me...The was skunk2's basic setup with their k20 and they ran a 9.46 1/4 mile...I have a feeling this would be very close to it...with the money you saved on not buying the itr, you could easily build a street/strip car that will have you shelling out money every weekend for new tires.
the ultimate "ricer"
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
From: Kensington, PEI
Cost efficient 1999 Civic build for power, dependability and road feel
Hi. I am a first year automotive tech student and I am just wondering what would be the most efficient way to build up the ultimate 1998-2000 Honda Civic for both cost and power. I am hoping to make enough next summer at my internship to at least buy the car and put it on the road bcuz i cant afford to drive what i am now for much longer (1993 dynasty 3.3l v6 engine).
Oh and to all you acura lovers out there i beat a modded tsx in a drag (by a long shot) with my dynasty. how do you like them apples. lol. no offense.
Oh and to all you acura lovers out there i beat a modded tsx in a drag (by a long shot) with my dynasty. how do you like them apples. lol. no offense.
Thread Starter
TeGGy.WrEcKEr7
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
From: starthroy ontario
finally someone has explained everything i wanted to know. but coupe or hatch? and buddy there is no chance in hell your dynstay would beat any teggy 3.3 has no balls. my teggy only had pinned injectors, intake, muffler, ls/vtec conversion, chipped and short throw shifter and ii was rapping 350 cameros and shititn out 5.0ls so dont tell me your dynasty did that. but im glad u converted and sorry if i afending you.