Rods/pistons
I blew the ringlands up in my #3 cylinder. I didn't have any knocking or detonation. I'm just assuming it was damage done over the course of three turbos and beating up the motor for almost two years and I got some unexpected detonation.
Anyway I'm replacing the rods and pistons. I'm not sure about what else I would need and I have a few questions. So this is what I'm getting so far.
Wiseco 9.1:1 standard bore pistons with rings, Tuner Toys rods with ARP bolts, ACL rod bearings, Felpro head gasket.
Is there anything else I need?
I was looking at a lot of different companies rods and most of them come with ARP 8740 bolts. Some sites vary on their capability. Tuner Toys said the bolts can only handle 7-8000rpm but Manley says they 8740 bolts can handle 8000-9000. Has anyone used these?
Anyway I'm replacing the rods and pistons. I'm not sure about what else I would need and I have a few questions. So this is what I'm getting so far.
Wiseco 9.1:1 standard bore pistons with rings, Tuner Toys rods with ARP bolts, ACL rod bearings, Felpro head gasket.
Is there anything else I need?
I was looking at a lot of different companies rods and most of them come with ARP 8740 bolts. Some sites vary on their capability. Tuner Toys said the bolts can only handle 7-8000rpm but Manley says they 8740 bolts can handle 8000-9000. Has anyone used these?
I blew the ringlands up in my #3 cylinder. I didn't have any knocking or detonation. I'm just assuming it was damage done over the course of three turbos and beating up the motor for almost two years and I got some unexpected detonation.
Anyway I'm replacing the rods and pistons. I'm not sure about what else I would need and I have a few questions. So this is what I'm getting so far.
Wiseco 9.1:1 standard bore pistons with rings, Tuner Toys rods with ARP bolts, ACL rod bearings, Felpro head gasket.
Is there anything else I need?
I was looking at a lot of different companies rods and most of them come with ARP 8740 bolts. Some sites vary on their capability. Tuner Toys said the bolts can only handle 7-8000rpm but Manley says they 8740 bolts can handle 8000-9000. Has anyone used these?
Anyway I'm replacing the rods and pistons. I'm not sure about what else I would need and I have a few questions. So this is what I'm getting so far.
Wiseco 9.1:1 standard bore pistons with rings, Tuner Toys rods with ARP bolts, ACL rod bearings, Felpro head gasket.
Is there anything else I need?
I was looking at a lot of different companies rods and most of them come with ARP 8740 bolts. Some sites vary on their capability. Tuner Toys said the bolts can only handle 7-8000rpm but Manley says they 8740 bolts can handle 8000-9000. Has anyone used these?
I'd bore it .020 over & get a nice fresh hone job.
Wiseco Pistons - 400 bux Summit Racing
Eagle Rods with ARP bolts - 309 shipped (ebay distributor)
i guess that means your not going to be ready for the 15th?
I really can't afford an overbore right now. I can't even really afford the rods and pistons but I'm going to get them anyway. It figures that I worked last Sunday so I could have the 15th off and that same day I get the blow by.
Anyway, Eagle rods come with ARP 4870 bolts "Good for 7000-8000 RPM". So with the bolts stretch if I bring it up to 8k?
Anyway, Eagle rods come with ARP 4870 bolts "Good for 7000-8000 RPM". So with the bolts stretch if I bring it up to 8k?
Last edited by Omniscient; Sep 5, 2006 at 10:46 AM.
The bolts should be fine. Eagle always underrates their parts even though they have been tested well over their alleged strength threshold by thousands of high hp motors with minimal failures.
My initial plan was if the cylinders look pretty healthy I was just going to put the rods and pistons in with the block still in the engine bay.
If the cylinders were scored I would have no choice but to have it machined. And this would give me an excuse to paint my engine bay flat black like I've been wanting to for a long ass time.
It's not like I'm strapped for cash, I'm strapped for spending like 800$ all at once. Since June I've driven my car about two weeks tops. It's just a shitty feeling.
If the cylinders were scored I would have no choice but to have it machined. And this would give me an excuse to paint my engine bay flat black like I've been wanting to for a long ass time.
It's not like I'm strapped for cash, I'm strapped for spending like 800$ all at once. Since June I've driven my car about two weeks tops. It's just a shitty feeling.
You should atleast get the cylinders honed, thats a big part of the engine break in is making sure you have a fresh hone. You can buy the tool to do it your self for pretty cheap, or a machine shop could probably do it for 50 bucks or so
and what if your cylinders are oblong in shape due to the stressed wear and you don't even know it. You will just blow more rings out. Have the block measure by a professional before you make an expensive assumption that it's ok just be cause it looks it!
h:
Last edited by Omniscient; Sep 5, 2006 at 12:16 PM.


