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YAY for more efficient set up!!

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Old Dec 23, 2005 | 09:31 PM
  #11  
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I'm guessing your filter will not keep up... The piping looks good, but I'g go with a better flowing filter if you want to see the gains of the piping in all their glory.
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Old Dec 23, 2005 | 09:32 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by b20hatchy
Oh i see, Does the rubber hose expand at all?
That's really impossible to tell, since it will only expand to any noticable extent when under load. I know he hasn't been on dyno.
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Old Dec 26, 2005 | 11:49 PM
  #13  
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Oh, ok.
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Old Dec 27, 2005 | 02:05 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by Bakeoff
I'm guessing your filter will not keep up... The piping looks good, but I'g go with a better flowing filter if you want to see the gains of the piping in all their glory.
yea ive considered this my self, but for now this is a step up from having nothing but a bit of screen mesh over it
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Old Dec 27, 2005 | 07:48 PM
  #15  
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looks like a 14b turbo? wheres your wastegate actuator???

looks like it will work out alot better with the new setup. definetly better flow. if you decide to upgrade to pipe...they make silcone reducers in virtually every possible size combination youll ever need.
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Old Dec 27, 2005 | 08:45 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by 95civiclx
looks like a 14b turbo? wheres your wastegate actuator???

looks like it will work out alot better with the new setup. definetly better flow. if you decide to upgrade to pipe...they make silcone reducers in virtually every possible size combination youll ever need.
Yea its a 14b turbo. The wastegate actuator i was using was opening partialy underboost so i took it off. Im using a carberator spring set to open for 10 psi. Slightly ghetto rigged i know, but it works like a charm.
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Old Dec 28, 2005 | 03:18 PM
  #17  
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On the clocking... did you drill a new hole for the dowel pin to lock it back in place, or are you just relying on the clamp to keep it locked down?

About the rubber hose. You don't get to see what happens to it when you have the drivetrain under load and pushing 10 PSI, but 6" worth of hose will blow up like a balloon. You will find yourself replacing that a lot. Try to get your IC pipe lengthened instead of the turbo flange (within an inch). Just use a short coupler to connect them. I've got a friend down here with a sweet Miller welding rig (in case your pipes are aluminum) and he just did an incredible job welding my IC back together again. I keep blowing the cold side end tank apart. This time it was three different 4-6" cracks.

One of the things contributing to my end tank failures is the fact that I have 2 6" long silicone reducers holding a Corvette Z06 MAF sensor in place on my upper IC pipe. At 21 PSI, they work like a muscle and it puts pressure on the cold side when they inflate.

The other thing is my obnoxious-ass chatttery HKS SSQV BOV. I think I'm going to get a TIAL flange welded on the pipes now that I know someone local that can weld aluminum.

Looks great man! I might have a spare 14b for ya if you ever blow that one up. Definitely replace that filter asap. Also, check out www.dejontool.com. They sell cheap powder coated turbo intakes that fit K&N filters. I don't think it matters that they cater to DSMs because when it comes to a turbo, an intake is an intake... and you have a DSM turbo. Maybe the one for a GVR-4 would fit well in your engine bay? He'd probably do a custom one if you asked.

EDIT: Good lord, man!!! That turbo oil feed line is so overkill. At least it's pretty

Last edited by Jafro; Dec 28, 2005 at 03:23 PM.
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