strut bars
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Joined: Dec 2005
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From: Oklahoma City, OK
Originally Posted by Mr_Goodbar
hey, sorry to jack this thread, but I want to put the PAssword JDM 3 point strut tower bar in the front on my 97 DX coupe but the stock air filter box is in the way so what the hell do I do to get rid of it?
~ iOn
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Joined: Apr 2005
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I have skunk2 front tower bar and it doesn't even come close to fitting with that box on there. The intake would have to connect directly to the TB with a 90 degree bend to get it going towards where the stock one is supposed to go. My guess would be to get a piece of exhaust piping from pep boys or something and another one of those rubber clamp connectors. Just trim it to fit and put the clamps on. The only problem would be that there is no place for that nifty little sensor that's on the side of the intake box.
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2006
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From: Louisiana
Front Strut Bar, 2001 Civic EX
OK, Cheapskate aside, I am having a hard time installing my Front strut bar because the small Brake fluid resevoir is impeding the mounting at the driver side. What is up with that? Any Suggestions? -Ivan
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Joined: Jan 2005
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Originally Posted by PDiggityDogg
See in the first image you posted how the bar connects to the end brace at 1 bolt? That is where the bar will move, with the car - the whole reason why youre getting them in the first place is to reduce flex. If the brace is pivoting at that point, the same as the car flexing, youre wasting your time.
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Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 340
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From: Los Angeles
Originally Posted by PDiggityDogg
pivot points...where things pivot...swivel, turn, spin, etc
See in the first image you posted how the bar connects to the end brace at 1 bolt? That is where the bar will move, with the car - the whole reason why youre getting them in the first place is to reduce flex. If the brace is pivoting at that point, the same as the car flexing, youre wasting your time.
The second bar, in picture 2, has 2 bolting points, which removes a pivot point, where the first in picture 2, has 1 point = pivot. (and no, thats not a real hype arr brace)
Good bars have no bolt locations between the mounting foot, and the bar itself. IE) Mugen, OEM, Neuspeed, PasswordJDM bars
Shitty bars, have bolting points (pivot points). IE) Ebay bars, SPOON, DC, etc
If you want an example of a good bar: http://www.passwordjdm.com/product.a...For=&PT_ID=374
See in the first image you posted how the bar connects to the end brace at 1 bolt? That is where the bar will move, with the car - the whole reason why youre getting them in the first place is to reduce flex. If the brace is pivoting at that point, the same as the car flexing, youre wasting your time.
The second bar, in picture 2, has 2 bolting points, which removes a pivot point, where the first in picture 2, has 1 point = pivot. (and no, thats not a real hype arr brace)
Good bars have no bolt locations between the mounting foot, and the bar itself. IE) Mugen, OEM, Neuspeed, PasswordJDM bars
Shitty bars, have bolting points (pivot points). IE) Ebay bars, SPOON, DC, etc
If you want an example of a good bar: http://www.passwordjdm.com/product.a...For=&PT_ID=374
In regards to SPOON, do you know what parts SPOON produces that are really good or bad?
