enigne and turbo noobs, come to me
Your Powder Coater
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 4,463
Likes: 0
From: Girard, Ohio
Originally Posted by raiden571
DO NOT take the engine over 3,500 RPM during the first 200 miles of operation.
being that we'll have very similar builds for summer. u break yours in your way & i'll brake mine in the harsh way & i guess we'll base our "theroys" off of the results! :dunno:
I missed Sean
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 11,285
Likes: 1
From: Fairfield/Bridgeport CT
Originally Posted by Running925
This is all Theroy.. & i totaly disagree with this sentence!
being that we'll have very similar builds for summer. u break yours in your way & i'll brake mine in the harsh way & i guess we'll base our "theroys" off of the results! :dunno:
being that we'll have very similar builds for summer. u break yours in your way & i'll brake mine in the harsh way & i guess we'll base our "theroys" off of the results! :dunno:
warm butter on toast
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 6,485
Likes: 0
From: The boonies, CT
Originally Posted by Running925
yep & i can tell you which ones lasted the longest & why! 
Your Powder Coater
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 4,463
Likes: 0
From: Girard, Ohio
Originally Posted by Omniscient
LIES! Also, I'm gonna be sending you those parts to be coated soon like after christmas because the mail is so backed up during this time of the year.
h:
i need a wrench wench
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 798
Likes: 0
From: califaz
Hey guys I was bored so i started editing/formating raidens posts so they are easier to read. Here is the link to the doc file: Engines 101 and ill go ahead and post it in here, hopefully the formatting doesnt get all fucked up. if it does just d/l the doc. So far I've only finished the engine section but, i will get to the rest in due time.
ENGINE AND TURBO SET UP FOR NOOBS
ENGINES:
The more and more I come on HAN, the more I realize people want to do a motor swap or turbo. Good, and I hope u have done your homework. So many threads have been started about it, that it’s sickening. So, I am going to pack this thread with all sorts of information and links that will help these people out and lets see if the noobs can go for one week without posting a question about the topic at hand.
Swap:
Civics come stock with a variety of engines, but ill stick with the 92 to 2000 variations.
Non-Vtec motors:
• D15
• D16
The d16a6 is ok due to it having a very nice flowing head. D15’s come with very weak rods and the typical cast crap that Honda uses. I would NOT recommend boosting these motors past 7-8 PSI unless you have done some sort of internal modifications.
D16z6/y8: 120 to 130 WHP STOCK
These are good, reliable motors; Torque-less and low horsepower but, they like turbos and can rev pretty well. The D16y8 head flows a little bit better then the D16z6s’, but the motors are damn near identical. Each power plant can hold around 200-210 WHP safely if tuned well. This calculates to about 10-13 PSI on a super 60 trim t3 turbo. If you blow your motor pushing the limits of your d-series, that’s your fault.
B18a/b1: 140 to 145 WHP STOCK
This is a very nice motor to boost. It has Lower compression than the other B-Series engines and I have seen people put 14psi through a stock motor. They are relatively cheap and very easy to find, do to an abundance of people looking for the b18c1. Which is basically a b18 with a Vtec head. Now, u can put a Vtec head on a Non-Vtec motor but, it has to be done right from the get go, or there will be problems. I would recommend taking both the head and the block to a professional to do any needed machining to get both of them level.
B18c1/c5: 170 to 195 WHP STOCK
Both have Vtec heads, both have nice horsepower and decent torque. Both of which sadly have fairly high compression to boot. I would say 10psi would be safe on a B18c1 but, its up to you to do the research on the B18c5. The b18c5 is a rich mans motor and an “N/A freaks” best friend. The b18c5 has high compression and revs like a beast. However like I said, they’re not cheap and are sometimes hard to come by in good working condition.
B20: 126 WHP STOCK
In my opinion, the B20 is the autistic motor of the bunch. It has thin cylinder walls, toothpick rods and mediocre pistons. If built correctly however, the B20 can be really nice motor. It’s fairly cheap and there are plenty of them around. I would avoid putting too much boost through a stock B20 it just isn’t wise. Bitch and whine if you want, cause I’m sure some of you will but this motor should not be pushed like a b18a/b or even the B18c1.
H22: 190 to 220 WHP STOCK
The H22 is basically the big block Honda motor. I don’t know a whole lot about these engines, other then them being a real bitch to install. The worst thing about them is that their sleeves are made from a different material not used in other Honda engines. So, the only way to run forged pistons is too have the motor sleeved.
B16: 160 to 184 WHP STOCK
The B16 is basically a DOHC d16. Very low Torque numbers and the only way to get any pull out of it is to rev the shit out of it. Boosting these engines is a common thing and I would say 10-12 PSI is safe with proper tuning. There are many variations of the B16, the B16A2, B16b, B16a, and B16a1. All accept for the B16b have about 160-170 WHP stock, the B16b has 184 WHP (Civic Type R).
ENGINE AND TURBO SET UP FOR NOOBS
ENGINES:
The more and more I come on HAN, the more I realize people want to do a motor swap or turbo. Good, and I hope u have done your homework. So many threads have been started about it, that it’s sickening. So, I am going to pack this thread with all sorts of information and links that will help these people out and lets see if the noobs can go for one week without posting a question about the topic at hand.
Swap:
Civics come stock with a variety of engines, but ill stick with the 92 to 2000 variations.
Non-Vtec motors:
• D15
• D16
The d16a6 is ok due to it having a very nice flowing head. D15’s come with very weak rods and the typical cast crap that Honda uses. I would NOT recommend boosting these motors past 7-8 PSI unless you have done some sort of internal modifications.
D16z6/y8: 120 to 130 WHP STOCK
These are good, reliable motors; Torque-less and low horsepower but, they like turbos and can rev pretty well. The D16y8 head flows a little bit better then the D16z6s’, but the motors are damn near identical. Each power plant can hold around 200-210 WHP safely if tuned well. This calculates to about 10-13 PSI on a super 60 trim t3 turbo. If you blow your motor pushing the limits of your d-series, that’s your fault.
B18a/b1: 140 to 145 WHP STOCK
This is a very nice motor to boost. It has Lower compression than the other B-Series engines and I have seen people put 14psi through a stock motor. They are relatively cheap and very easy to find, do to an abundance of people looking for the b18c1. Which is basically a b18 with a Vtec head. Now, u can put a Vtec head on a Non-Vtec motor but, it has to be done right from the get go, or there will be problems. I would recommend taking both the head and the block to a professional to do any needed machining to get both of them level.
B18c1/c5: 170 to 195 WHP STOCK
Both have Vtec heads, both have nice horsepower and decent torque. Both of which sadly have fairly high compression to boot. I would say 10psi would be safe on a B18c1 but, its up to you to do the research on the B18c5. The b18c5 is a rich mans motor and an “N/A freaks” best friend. The b18c5 has high compression and revs like a beast. However like I said, they’re not cheap and are sometimes hard to come by in good working condition.
B20: 126 WHP STOCK
In my opinion, the B20 is the autistic motor of the bunch. It has thin cylinder walls, toothpick rods and mediocre pistons. If built correctly however, the B20 can be really nice motor. It’s fairly cheap and there are plenty of them around. I would avoid putting too much boost through a stock B20 it just isn’t wise. Bitch and whine if you want, cause I’m sure some of you will but this motor should not be pushed like a b18a/b or even the B18c1.
H22: 190 to 220 WHP STOCK
The H22 is basically the big block Honda motor. I don’t know a whole lot about these engines, other then them being a real bitch to install. The worst thing about them is that their sleeves are made from a different material not used in other Honda engines. So, the only way to run forged pistons is too have the motor sleeved.
B16: 160 to 184 WHP STOCK
The B16 is basically a DOHC d16. Very low Torque numbers and the only way to get any pull out of it is to rev the shit out of it. Boosting these engines is a common thing and I would say 10-12 PSI is safe with proper tuning. There are many variations of the B16, the B16A2, B16b, B16a, and B16a1. All accept for the B16b have about 160-170 WHP stock, the B16b has 184 WHP (Civic Type R).