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Old 03-21-2005, 07:43 AM
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OblivionLord
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Default axle replacement

I have a 98 ex civic.. i took off my lower control arm and strut fork... The drive axle doesnt want to come off ... I hammer it at all angles and it still doesnt want to come apart

I took off the 32mm bolt... still nothing

there is a hole in the center of the axle where the 32mm bolt goes around .. is that anything of importance?
Old 03-21-2005, 08:00 AM
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'93TurboD
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Originally Posted by OblivionLord
I have a 98 ex civic.. i took off my lower control arm and strut fork... The drive axle doesnt want to come off ... I hammer it at all angles and it still doesnt want to come apart

I took off the 32mm bolt... still nothing

there is a hole in the center of the axle where the 32mm bolt goes around .. is that anything of importance?
Since you haven't said which end of the shaft you are stuck on here's the DIY from Jafro: https://www.honda-acura.net/forums/s...d.php?t=173647

If that doesn't help you'll have to give alittle more info.
Old 03-21-2005, 08:18 AM
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This might help too: https://www.honda-acura.net/forums/s...d.php?t=139802
Old 03-21-2005, 09:53 AM
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OblivionLord
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"If the axle is really rusty, tap the axle through with a hammer."

This is the area that is extreamly hard on my end. I tapped it at first and it just isnt comming off. I hammered the hell out of it and it still just isnt comming off. I tried prying it loose by using a pitch fork in the back and that didnt do a damn thing. Finnaly I took off the whole wheel assembely by dissconecting the whole rotor away from the upper control arm and bleed the brake juice. Now its sittin in the garage all by itself.

On the floor laying on alot of towels to not ruin the threading for the wheel lug nuts, I attempted again to pry it loose and it still wont budge. I have a rebuilt axle in the garage that i want to replace this axle with so i dont care if this damn axle is destroyed now. I will still get my 40$ bucks!

Any sudjestions? Thanks
Old 03-21-2005, 10:23 AM
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You have the whole knuckle off? Put it in a vise, studs up, get a punch and place it in the little hole in the end of the drive shaft. Get a big fawking hammer and hammer that shaft out. Use anti-seizeing compound on the new shaft splines so you don't have this problem again. It shouldn't be that hard.
Old 03-21-2005, 10:26 AM
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Running925
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axles are normally a cake job, unless u can't get the axle nut off! but i use a really big impact gun with my 32mm socket. I don't normally have trouble with this.

Read the DIY's that were posted!
Old 03-21-2005, 11:16 AM
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OblivionLord
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Yea the nut was cacke in fact I did that by hand. Everything else was cacke and the DIY isnt going to help me out with my problem even though i went above and beyond what it says since the axle just wont get out.

I going to do what 93turbod sudjested. Thanks man
Old 03-21-2005, 11:35 AM
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Andy
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You've got to knock it loose first then unbolt the LCA ball joint to move the whole spindle assembly out of the way to actually remove the axle. You don't want to hammer directly onto the end of the axle. If you miss, you might be replacing wheel studs too and it is possible to mushroom the end and make it very hard to get out. You can either take a drift punch that fits in the center dimple or just a big block of wood (something like a foot long 4x4) and place that against the axle and give it a good whacking. Spray a little WD40 or the penatrating oil you have on hand onto the splines behind where the axle nut was removed and you should be alright.

To get the other side of the axle out, a large/strong flat head screwdriver between the tranny and the axle and a good smack with your hand will usually do the trick.
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Old 03-21-2005, 12:29 PM
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Well its easier said than done. I have done everything that you said but, now its a bit too late since everything ive previously done barley had no effect. So I did put it all on a vise and to my delight it moved perfectly flat to where the threading is. Yaaaayyy

I had to hammer it really really hard inorder to get it to move just a quarter of an inch. Thanks to Honda engineering I may now have to replace the whole rotor and possibly the whole works just because this piece is practicly molded on since Honda never bothered to put a form of greese in the threading so this problem wouldnt arise.

Talk about mass production quality at its best.
Old 03-21-2005, 12:43 PM
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I called Autozone to ask how much they sell Rotors for and they have a new Rotor for 20 bucks with 2 year waranty. Not bad

i just thought of something lol.. inorder to take off the rotor i have to take off the axle which as it is Molded to the rotor cause I had to hammer it down and honda never greesed it

So im still stuck grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr




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