the bolts are on the back side of the caliper, there are 2, you should be ablt to tell they are the only ones holding it on. To bleed the brakes you need a second person . While the car is off and you have finished putting them bake together. have them pump the brakes a few time, then hold it down. While they are doin that, you need to open the bleeder. It is on the caliper with a little rubber boot on it. I think it is 10mm. Do this until there is no air comin out. when they are holdin the brake down is when you want to close the bleeder while a steady stream of fluid comes out. You can capture and reuse it if it is clean. Repeat for all 4 wheels

 

oh, and the brake line is the rubber hose tha leads to the caliper. I hope what I wrote you can understand lol

 

Well, for what its worth, I've got the Axxis (PBR) Metal Master pads and a set of Brembo blanks on my 95 EX. Top that off with some Goodridge SS lines and then flushed n filled with Motul 600. My car stops like no other. It literally made my car feel lighter. I've got about 2500mi on them right now and no squeaks or noises. Just a nice solid pedal and consistent braking.

As for changing brake pads.. piece of cake. Tough part to get right is bedding them in correctly. I highly recommend this writeup on bedding in your brakes. I've used the same method on my setup, as well as a friend's Toyota Tacoma (with Powerslot rotors/Hawk Pads) with much success.

If you've never flushed and bled your own brake lines though, I'd recommend you get someone who's done it before to show/help you do it. You can do more harm than good if you open up the system without knowing wtf you're doing.

 

I got my car used at 38k miles and am still using the OEM pads while at 73k. I dont jam my brakes and I drive around 11k miles a year. I never bled my lines till recently and the rotors are also OEM.