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Straight braking has a right side bias

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Old Mar 23, 2005 | 11:03 AM
  #11  
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I'm still suffering from this.

No kinks in the brake lines and supposedly (according to the mechanic) the calipers are working fine.
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Old Mar 23, 2005 | 11:10 AM
  #12  
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I had a lower ball joint go on my Odyssey minivan. Prior to replacing the lower left front one, it would always pull to the left while braking (especially on highways). It went away after replacement. Now it pulls to the right slightly since the right one is starting to seize up on my. Ball joints are sealed units and can only be replaced.
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Old Mar 23, 2005 | 12:43 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by Andy
It's also possible you've got a hanging/stuck caliper. That's what I would typically assume when one side of the car produces more dust than the other.
^^my first thought, just pull the caliper, open your brake fluid resevoir, and push back the piston. If it doesn't move back it's seized. Also check the caliper sliders, where the bolts go through the caliper. 2 metal sleeves that should be lubed before re-assembly, if they are seized the caliper can't slide in/out and would affect braking performance.


Also; do you have drum brakes in the rear? If so they could be out of adj to the right side (Right side having more drag than the left).
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Old Mar 23, 2005 | 01:57 PM
  #14  
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WRX cuz Honda won't wagon
 
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Originally Posted by '93TurboD
Also; do you have drum brakes in the rear? If so they could be out of adj to the right side (Right side having more drag than the left).
Yeah, I still have the rear drums. Hmmm... I'll have them checked.
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Old Apr 19, 2005 | 10:19 AM
  #15  
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WRX cuz Honda won't wagon
 
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I THINK THE PROBLEM HAS BEEN SOLVED!!! Thanks for all who helped.

I just got back from the shop and he found a poorly lubricated caliper pin on the front right tire, causing it to stick. On top of this, the ABS sensor was totally caked up with greasy dirty crud. I'm sure both were the culprit.

Even more, it was shown to me that the bushings in the rear where the trailing arm connects to the chassis is deteriorated and RIPPING on both sides. They will be replaced with beefier OEM replacements. (I decided not to go with urethane for my own reasons.)

BTW, he estimates a 5 hour job (and about $750) to replace those two bad bushings in the rear. I know it's labor intensive to remove all that stuff, cleanout the old bushing, press in the new one, and reassemble, but 5 hours for a professional? For the most part, this is a trusted mechanic by me and several friends. On the other hand, he didn't charge anything for today to diagnose the problems, regrease all 4 caliper pins, and clean the ABS sensor of gunk.
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Old Apr 19, 2005 | 11:52 AM
  #16  
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750, thats alot yo. u could pull those trailing arms off and have someone press the old bushings out and press new ones in for less than 100 bucks + the cost of the bushings.

Originally Posted by chimchim
I THINK THE PROBLEM HAS BEEN SOLVED!!! Thanks for all who helped.

I just got back from the shop and he found a poorly lubricated caliper pin on the front right tire. On top of this, the ABS sensor was totally caked up with greasy dirty crud. I'm sure both were the culprit.

Even more, it was shown to me that the bushings in the rear where the trailing arm connects to the chassis is deteriorated and RIPPING on both sides. They will be replaced with beefier OEM replacements. (I decided not to go with urethane for my own reasons.)

BTW, he estimates a 5 hour job (and about $750) to replace those two bad bushings in the rear. I know it's labor intensive to remove all that stuff, cleanout the old bushing, press in the new one, and reassemble, but 5 hours for a professional? For the most part, this is a trusted mechanic by me and several friends. On the other hand, he didn't charge anything for today to diagnose the problems, regrease all 4 caliper pins, and clean the ABS sensor of gunk.
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Old Apr 19, 2005 | 04:06 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Outxider
750, thats alot yo. u could pull those trailing arms off and have someone press the old bushings out and press new ones in for less than 100 bucks + the cost of the bushings.
"pressing out the old bushings" doesn't seem as easy as you'd think. Everywhere I read says the old rubber bushings are a b*&^ch to get out. One guy said it took him 6 hours to clean out the crap. Hence the big price.
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Old Apr 19, 2005 | 06:25 PM
  #18  
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my friend and i used a blow torch and heated up the pin, then slowly pry the bushing out with a big flat head and to clean the residue, we use a wire brush attachment on a drill, took us 2 hours for both sides and thats with lunch and dicking around.

Originally Posted by chimchim
"pressing out the old bushings" doesn't seem as easy as you'd think. Everywhere I read says the old rubber bushings are a b*&^ch to get out. One guy said it took him 6 hours to clean out the crap. Hence the big price.
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Old Apr 19, 2005 | 07:23 PM
  #19  
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Really? Wanna do mine? =)
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Old Apr 19, 2005 | 10:22 PM
  #20  
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we could for a small charge? pm if ur interested, we have absoulety nothing to do but to mess with our cars.

Originally Posted by chimchim
Really? Wanna do mine? =)
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