timing belt tensioner problems!!!!!! arghh!
Hey, I've nearly finished my timing belt replacement going through the headace of trying to get the crank pulley off. Finally got it off after going to three garages who could get it off with their air guns, the last one also worked on trucks so that got it off. Ive made sure that eveything was at TDC when it should have been and i'm now trying to tension the belt. I've searched and have found neumerous post about untighteing the bolt on the tensioner 180 degrees, then moving the crank pulley counterclockwise 3 "teeth" then tightening up the tension bolt. I've done this (to what i think was three teeth) and its still slack as hell, what am i doing wrong?? and the three teeth, what teeth are these, andddd what do i use as a marker to see that three teeth have passed it?
cheers
steve j
cheers
steve j
ok mate i'll give it a try, but it seems to be slipping off the cam gear. is the teeth i count on the cam gear??? need to know kinda fast caz cars sitting half in half out of garage with a jack supporting the timing belt side of the car,i needs it for the weekend!!
cheers
stevej
p/s i ment to say on the first post, the first three garages COULDN"T get it off
cheers
stevej
p/s i ment to say on the first post, the first three garages COULDN"T get it off
when me and my defused did it i just picked a point on the engine and went 3 teeth on the crank gear that took out most of the slack on it.... just make sure that the cam gear and the crank are moving at the same time....
cool cheers for all the info guys, one more thing, i don't have anything to test the tightness, should it be as tight as say the power steering pump belt or alternator belt, or slacker than them?
cheers
stevej
cheers
stevej
i will bet your timing is off. to make sure you are at TDC, stick a long straw or something in the #1 spark plug hole. it will be sticking out the most at TDC. the cam gear should have the "UP" at the top, and the side lines lined up with the head.
You shouldn't adjust belt tension yourself. It gets adjusted automatically when tension roller is loosed and you turn crank on "tree teeth". After you turn the crank, just tight tension rollers bolt. If you put to much tension on a belt, it will sound like shit.
de.fused i made sure the cams were at TDC because on the cam gear, "up" was where it should have been, and the crank was lined up with the timing belt case "eye line" bit by using the white indent on the pulley. I did the straw thing and the #1 spark plug hole was stickin out the most.
The belt seemed to be very slack, so i decided to take it off again and visually see how big it was compared to the old one. From what i could see it actually looked bigger, also i looked on the codes on the belts and one of them was simlilar expect for one number. The old one was 104 RU24, and the new one was 103 RU24, so i phoned up the honda garage to see if they had maybe order the wrong part.
he confirmed that it was the right belt for my engine (new one), and that the change in numbers was just a part number superceading itself. I wasn't sure about this so he went and asked one of the mechanics if this was right, and they said that the 103 bit ment the amount of teeth that were on the belt. So this seemed to explain why it seemed to be bigger and slacker than the old belt, so I'm wating for a 103 teeth belt to arrive.
So i though i would try my old belt on again to make sure that i can get it to work, and that it is the right belt for the car, and I keep stumbling into the same problem. Everything is at TDC, the belt is round the crank, tensioner and water pump, only thing left is to put it on the cam gear. It fits over the cam gear fine, but on the front side of the engine, theres a bit of slack on the belt, and when i go to move it three teeth to tension it, the crank moves a bit takin the slack of the belt before the cam gear moves, so the crank and cam gear are not both at TDC. (also tesioner is untightened 180 degrees)
So why is there this bit of slack in the belt, what am i doing wrong?? thanks for ur help guys, im slowly gettin there....
The belt seemed to be very slack, so i decided to take it off again and visually see how big it was compared to the old one. From what i could see it actually looked bigger, also i looked on the codes on the belts and one of them was simlilar expect for one number. The old one was 104 RU24, and the new one was 103 RU24, so i phoned up the honda garage to see if they had maybe order the wrong part.
he confirmed that it was the right belt for my engine (new one), and that the change in numbers was just a part number superceading itself. I wasn't sure about this so he went and asked one of the mechanics if this was right, and they said that the 103 bit ment the amount of teeth that were on the belt. So this seemed to explain why it seemed to be bigger and slacker than the old belt, so I'm wating for a 103 teeth belt to arrive.
So i though i would try my old belt on again to make sure that i can get it to work, and that it is the right belt for the car, and I keep stumbling into the same problem. Everything is at TDC, the belt is round the crank, tensioner and water pump, only thing left is to put it on the cam gear. It fits over the cam gear fine, but on the front side of the engine, theres a bit of slack on the belt, and when i go to move it three teeth to tension it, the crank moves a bit takin the slack of the belt before the cam gear moves, so the crank and cam gear are not both at TDC. (also tesioner is untightened 180 degrees)
So why is there this bit of slack in the belt, what am i doing wrong?? thanks for ur help guys, im slowly gettin there....


