Smog Fail Help!
Ok well now I dont know what fuel to use because im hearing both now. But I realize the exhaust wont make me fail. Only thing that sucks is it cost 24 bucks again when I retest so I need to get it right. Ay when you say I should get a cap and rotor you mean distributor cap and rotor right? Just wanna be clear? Thanks for the help and stuff.
Originally Posted by SiHatchR6
Ok well now I dont know what fuel to use because im hearing both now.
Originally Posted by SiHatchR6
when you say I should get a cap and rotor you mean distributor cap and rotor right?
If a full tune-up doesn't work, a new catalytic converter should solve the problem.
Really? I heard different, from my uncle... But thats my uncle, (garage mechanic). Thanks for the info, and sorry for the bad info...
Go get the Cap and rotor at any auto parts store that sells (Tec) I think thats the same brand that you have.. I could be wrong, so the easyest way to do it, is if you have another way to get to the local parts store, take them your cap, and rotor and ask them if they have the same brand.
When you buy these things (cap and rotor), dont cheap out and get aluminum contacts, spend the 5.00 more and get brass, it will give you peace of mind, and a less likely chance of corosion, and missfireing.
FYI: Aluminum does not transfer the current as well as Brass does.
Good luck and Hope you pass!
Go get the Cap and rotor at any auto parts store that sells (Tec) I think thats the same brand that you have.. I could be wrong, so the easyest way to do it, is if you have another way to get to the local parts store, take them your cap, and rotor and ask them if they have the same brand.
When you buy these things (cap and rotor), dont cheap out and get aluminum contacts, spend the 5.00 more and get brass, it will give you peace of mind, and a less likely chance of corosion, and missfireing.
FYI: Aluminum does not transfer the current as well as Brass does.
Good luck and Hope you pass!
I have failed from old dead spark plugs before. Also, a clogged air filter can lead to high HC readings. Higher grade fuel DOES NOT help, as it contains more octane, which makes the gas burn slower. With stock timing, this equates to less gas being burnt = more emissions. Also, check your timing and make sure it is on.
If you really must, run your car down to 1/8 tank or less and add about 2 gallons of 90% isopropyl alcohol. That should do the trick.
If you really must, run your car down to 1/8 tank or less and add about 2 gallons of 90% isopropyl alcohol. That should do the trick.
Originally Posted by racerdave
Wow, wont that alcohol harm the motor?
Once the test is done, go straight to the closest gas station and fill it up.
Just to add, HC means hydrocarbon, and NO is nitric oxide, both are pollutants. High HC means that your gas isn't being completely burned before leaving the cylinder. High octane gas will for sure hurt this category because octane is harder to combust. High NO usually means high exhaust gas temp (someone correct me if I'm wrong but this is from my understanding of the chemical kinetics) because NO is only formed at high temperatures, and the higher the temperature, the faster NO forms.
Originally Posted by Kestrel
Just to add, HC means hydrocarbon, and NO is nitric oxide, both are pollutants. High HC means that your gas isn't being completely burned before leaving the cylinder. High octane gas will for sure hurt this category because octane is harder to combust. High NO usually means high exhaust gas temp (someone correct me if I'm wrong but this is from my understanding of the chemical kinetics) because NO is only formed at high temperatures, and the higher the temperature, the faster NO forms.


