I just ordered a Summit battery relocation kit. Since my donut doesn't fit over my front brakes anyway, I've decided to put my batery in the spare tire compartment. The kit comes with a plastic box and everything you need to secure the bastid, and plenty of cable.

Nothing too exciting... I figure it should be a snap to install, but if any of you who have moved your battery have any words of wisdom to offer, please feel free to chime in.

 

pretty cool I did that, it was pretty easy. Totally worth it for the room in the engine compartment :thumbup:?

 

yeah, the engine compartment always looks better sans battery.

I'm mosly doing it for weight management purposes though... Short of the battery, all I have left to get weight off the front tires is a cf/fiberglass hood, and I doubt that'll happen any time soon (if at all).

 

You know, out of all the shit ive done the hood was the most irritating part.


First when you get a CF hood you are afraid to push it down with force, so at first I had a huge ass trouble aligning it right with the ram so that it would engage the lock fully.. I fiddled with it for hours til I got it right.


I am still afraid to push it down hard I love the way it looks though, but from horror stories ive heard lately I might be using hoodlocks in the near future.


Also, one of the reasons I removed the battery was because im using full MSD ignition, and in a Honda engine bay (even more so with a B series.) there is very little room for a huge ass ignition box, and I didnt think at the time to run it inside the passenger compartment. That might be a good weekend project for me though..

How are you planning on distributing power from the positive? I used a marine battery bar, much bigger then what I really need but it leaves alot of room for extra wires if I ever have any more need for 12v.

 

well I have no stereo or accessories, so all I really need to do is run the positive cable up front.

 

You should have gotten one of these:



Sealed and at 15lbs it's almost 30lbs lighter than stock

 

I can't really afford a new battery at the moment. Plus mine is still pretty new. I will look into a lighter battery when the time comes.

 

Yeah I'm going to have to buy a 2nd battery anyway since this one is only for racing applications

 

IF you want to know a cheap way to do the relocation here it is:

Soldering iron= 15.00
Copper Terminals = 6.00
2 packages of jumper cables = 25.00
Liquid Electrical Tape + Shrink tube = 11.00

Run the + from the terminal to the trunk (splice in extra cable) Make sure to cover spliced connections and secure it away from any moving or hot parts (exhaust), atatch the ground to the original location in the engine compartment, and to the block, (I had it in the trunk where the bolt went through the spare tire, but every time I had my stereo up and turned on my lights and rear defrost, my lights would dimm (with a higher juice alternator and battery).. So I made my own ground kit and ran wires all over out of sight.

The best part about this is its cheap and easy, and the most expencive part about a relocation kit is the + wire, so I used heavy duty jumper cable, (make sure the wire is copper).. Have fun...

 

Well , McMaster Carr sells wholesale low impedence copper wire JUST for these and marine applications for way cheap... thats what im using..