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My (modest) mod plan. Is it achieveable?

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Old Oct 7, 2004 | 11:11 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by oc_civic
a d16y7 makes very little power to the wheels.. is it 65?? i have no idea.. but i know it is sub 100 to the wheels.. that is PROBABLY what he is talking about...

Check out the link, it gives charted dyno results on power to the wheels as stock, and after selected mods.
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Old Oct 7, 2004 | 12:42 PM
  #12  
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I would not go by that superhonda page.


I/H/E will give you at most to the wheel.... 3-6 HP. I am assuming your 96 civic hatch is a CX/DX. At most..you'll gain back the power you lost to the wheels. If you have an automatic...I wouldnt even bother.
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Old Oct 7, 2004 | 12:44 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by Fatewolf
Check out the link, it gives charted dyno results on power to the wheels as stock, and after selected mods.

all cars will give you different results. you cant go by one person's dyno results. some engines will put out more or less power than others. the best way is to put your own car on a chassis dyno and go from there.
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Old Oct 7, 2004 | 12:52 PM
  #14  
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I have a 97 hatch sohc non-vtec d16y7, and I have done all the mods in question, but with different brands. Since I don't have the same brands, the end result may fluctuate a horsepower or three, but nothing major. I can say that while I didn't really notice a change in speed with gaining 5-10 horsepower, I did notice an overall inprovement in performance such as throttle response. The power does come on earlier, though there isn't necessarily more of it. Now I've concentrated on improving suspension and handling, and that is where Ive found the most enjoyable and rewarding mods yet. If I had to do it again, I would skip the intake, header, etc. and go to suspension and save the engine work for when I can swing an engine swap or turbo. I certainly wouldnt do it on an auto tranny.
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Old Oct 7, 2004 | 03:31 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by Fatewolf
undefinedI found this:

http://www.importtuner.com/tech/0207it_ppcivic/



The Honda D16Y engine--it's the little engine that seems to have started it all. When this motor was introduced in the Civic/CRX line-up, the little Japanese econoboxes were suddenly praised for having a sporty nature, signaling the end of the "economical = boring" equation that occupied the minds of consumers at that time. With the engine pushing a factory rated 108 hp at 6000 rpm, the engine doesn't sound too impressive now, but relative to the cars available at the start of that decade it was good enough. Coupled with the car's suspension technology and relative cost of ownership, the Civic became a highly desirable vehicle to own.
thats an SI, and that is decently differant than a y7.. im not saying that 65 at the wheels is right.. im just saying that motor sucks and the ONLY way to get it to move will probably be forced induction.. NOT talking shit.. but a friend who some of you know has a totaly unreasonable build with a y8 head.. and it makes good power.. but that is with an unreasonable build and a y8 head... like FULLY built.. AKA lots of money..
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Old Oct 7, 2004 | 03:42 PM
  #16  
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Hmmm. Thanks for ur responses. Here's the answers to your Q's:
Yes I'm practising driving, regardless of mods.

This is the site I went by to get what power I have: http://www.redbook.com.au/vehiclesea...p?key=HOND96AI
You might have to click on the "Specifications" link on the left. Then I just multiplied the 88 kilowatts (kW) by 0.7457 to get 65.6HP. So you guys think that's rubbish to start with? Stupid metric imperial conversions... Many sites gave that ratio is the conversion rate, and I'd have no idea whether that info is accurate, but it's the one I mainly go by for any car.

The exact model of my car is: A 96 FWD Civic CXi 1.6L SOHC non-VTEC Hatchback.
EK1 D16Y4 Australian spec Sedan & Hatchback FWD 88kW/144Nm
( going by this page: http://www.carforumz.net/forum/lofiv...x.php/t44.html )
That's the ONLY Aussie spec civic in that list, and matches my car chassis etc. Only the last number after the Y I am not 100% sure about, but probably makes little difference since we know it's a D16.

Next point: I'm not going to turbo or put in NOS. I'm under 25 and want to still be able to insure my car, the Aussie insurance companies will charge me out the a$$ or not even go near me if I turbo/NOS it. And i really can't be a$$ed taking out parts when I have to go for inspections etc. I want "set and forget" mods. I'm not racing anyway, and like I said, half the aim of this would be for more efficiency.

At the people saying "You only want 10HP??" Of course I'd like more, but discounting turbo and NOS, there's only so much (that I know of) that I could do, considering the engine I think I'm starting with. I've read about boring the throttle body and replacement camshafts and the like, but they seem even more money than my planned mods, with probably even less effect.

I'm at work ATM. I will check that last engine code letter and post it later.
Again, thanks for your replies. Hopefully the extra info will help.
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Old Oct 7, 2004 | 07:41 PM
  #17  
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Honestly, D series engines that make 100+ horsepower are SO cheap that it is not even worth thinking about messing with the crap you have now.


Yes, 10 hp is "not that much." But it's almost a 20% power gain over stock, and that is a lot.
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Old Oct 7, 2004 | 10:07 PM
  #18  
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So... you're suggesting a swap for another D series engine? I don't want to spend that much, and I don't know enough to do it myself, let alone have the extra money to get someone else to do it.
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Old Oct 7, 2004 | 10:30 PM
  #19  
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Even a head swap would give you vast power increases. I'm guessing your head is 3 valve.


But the reason I suggested the whole engine is that with the CXes, the tranny is a piece of crap too.
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Old Oct 8, 2004 | 04:04 AM
  #20  
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What you should do and would be cheap is some night swap the engine for your dads lawn mower engine. The HP gain would be massive
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