autometer oil pressure gauge (electric)
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
autometer oil pressure gauge (electric)
ive got a 7th gen and im looking for a DIY for the install, any techies out there that can help me out...let me know
also if anyone has an oil pressure (electric) and / or a voltmeter ... ultra-lite
let me know
thanks
also if anyone has an oil pressure (electric) and / or a voltmeter ... ultra-lite
let me know
thanks
Still here... sorta...
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 17,177
Likes: 2
From: CO
Not sure on the 7th gens, but I know on the 5th and 6th gens you remove the OEM oil sending unit located just above the oil filter. It is a one-wire sensor and is removed using a 15/16 socket.
I personally did this and I had a local fittings shop make me a 1.5' steel braided hose with male ends on it with the same size and thread pitch as the hole in the block that the OEM sending unit uses. I screwed my steel braided hose into the block, looped it and then put a 'T' fitting on the other end and ran that to the firewall. At the firewall I put the Autometer sending unit on one side of the 'T' fitting and then the OEM sending unit on the other. You might have to extend the wiring for the OEM sending unit, but I'm not sure - I did on mine and another I did.
Zip tie the whole thing (t-fitting, OEM sending unit, Autometer sending unit) to the brake lines on the firewall and wire up the Autometer gauge.
You should really do it this way or very similarly to it because the line that runs from the block to the T fitting will absorb the shock and bounce of the engine. If you were to put the T fitting right on the block, the weight of the sending units could cause the whole assembly to rip out with the movement of the engine and then you're in a world of hurt.
That should do it!
hih
:edit: be sure to Teflon tape everything!
I personally did this and I had a local fittings shop make me a 1.5' steel braided hose with male ends on it with the same size and thread pitch as the hole in the block that the OEM sending unit uses. I screwed my steel braided hose into the block, looped it and then put a 'T' fitting on the other end and ran that to the firewall. At the firewall I put the Autometer sending unit on one side of the 'T' fitting and then the OEM sending unit on the other. You might have to extend the wiring for the OEM sending unit, but I'm not sure - I did on mine and another I did.
Zip tie the whole thing (t-fitting, OEM sending unit, Autometer sending unit) to the brake lines on the firewall and wire up the Autometer gauge.
You should really do it this way or very similarly to it because the line that runs from the block to the T fitting will absorb the shock and bounce of the engine. If you were to put the T fitting right on the block, the weight of the sending units could cause the whole assembly to rip out with the movement of the engine and then you're in a world of hurt.
That should do it!
hih
:edit: be sure to Teflon tape everything!
X-Motoring
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 2,530
Likes: 0
From: bay area
:werd: i did it the same way, thanks josh. :goodjod:
Originally Posted by westcoaststyle
Not sure on the 7th gens, but I know on the 5th and 6th gens you remove the OEM oil sending unit located just above the oil filter. It is a one-wire sensor and is removed using a 15/16 socket.
I personally did this and I had a local fittings shop make me a 1.5' steel braided hose with male ends on it with the same size and thread pitch as the hole in the block that the OEM sending unit uses. I screwed my steel braided hose into the block, looped it and then put a 'T' fitting on the other end and ran that to the firewall. At the firewall I put the Autometer sending unit on one side of the 'T' fitting and then the OEM sending unit on the other. You might have to extend the wiring for the OEM sending unit, but I'm not sure - I did on mine and another I did.
Zip tie the whole thing (t-fitting, OEM sending unit, Autometer sending unit) to the brake lines on the firewall and wire up the Autometer gauge.
You should really do it this way or very similarly to it because the line that runs from the block to the T fitting will absorb the shock and bounce of the engine. If you were to put the T fitting right on the block, the weight of the sending units could cause the whole assembly to rip out with the movement of the engine and then you're in a world of hurt.
That should do it!
hih
:edit: be sure to Teflon tape everything!
I personally did this and I had a local fittings shop make me a 1.5' steel braided hose with male ends on it with the same size and thread pitch as the hole in the block that the OEM sending unit uses. I screwed my steel braided hose into the block, looped it and then put a 'T' fitting on the other end and ran that to the firewall. At the firewall I put the Autometer sending unit on one side of the 'T' fitting and then the OEM sending unit on the other. You might have to extend the wiring for the OEM sending unit, but I'm not sure - I did on mine and another I did.
Zip tie the whole thing (t-fitting, OEM sending unit, Autometer sending unit) to the brake lines on the firewall and wire up the Autometer gauge.
You should really do it this way or very similarly to it because the line that runs from the block to the T fitting will absorb the shock and bounce of the engine. If you were to put the T fitting right on the block, the weight of the sending units could cause the whole assembly to rip out with the movement of the engine and then you're in a world of hurt.
That should do it!
hih
:edit: be sure to Teflon tape everything!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
IntegraKid2002
Integra & 97-01 Integra Type-R
6
Jan 1, 2003 11:42 PM
ehrennelson
Parts Classifieds
2
Aug 8, 2002 07:30 AM
wansumadisVTEC
Engine Swaps, Tech & Tuning
0
Jun 23, 2002 02:56 PM
