Timing Belt
Originally Posted by westcoaststyle
Depends on what your dealer wants to charge and what motor. My B18C1 water pump was over $100 alone. 

I bought the OE Honda parts from a local Acura dealership for my B18C1 for around $140 (belt and pump) and paid around $100 for the belt and pump for my '98 EX's D16Y8. Changing the belt isn't hard, but you need a crank pulley tool and it's a lot of shoving your hands into really tight spaces.
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Andy - Reinstated Hybrid Forum Moderator
'06 Subaru Legacy Spec B - Stock, for now
'98 Civic EX - CTR headlights and grill, Kosei K1's, for sale
'90 240SX - SR20DET that will never get installed, project car.
Andy - Reinstated Hybrid Forum Moderator
'06 Subaru Legacy Spec B - Stock, for now
'98 Civic EX - CTR headlights and grill, Kosei K1's, for sale
'90 240SX - SR20DET that will never get installed, project car.
Originally Posted by Andy
(belt and pump) and paid around $100 for the belt and pump for my '98 EX's D16Y8. Changing the belt isn't hard, but you need a crank pulley tool and it's a lot of shoving your hands into really tight spaces.
Gear wrenches. They make any tight space a lot easier to deal with. The short ones are even better than the standard ones. I love my Snap-On set.
1/4" drive ratchet and a 10mm shorty socket and a 10mm deep well for timing cover bolts.
Impact wrench for the crank pulley (nothing else is as easy as an impact wrench for this, I've had no success with anything else, but that's only because I have access to air tools).
Several cans of 2+2 carb and choke cleaner to clean the timing cover with.
Rags.
A gallon of antifreeze.
RTV sealant (orange or red stuff is fine). Use this on the water pump gasket. Makes life easier when installing it.
Breaker bar for motor mount bolts.
Drain pan for catching your antifreeze.
Floor jack to jack the engine back up so you can re-install the motor mount bolt.
That's about it. The crank pulley bolt is always the same size as the lug nut wrench on Hondas and most other cars. The timing belt tensioner is spring-loaded and supposed to set itself, make note of where the spring is connected and that it goes back exactly as it is. If I were you, I'd replace the timing tensioner pulley. It's a $35 part from the dealer, but well worth not having to go back in and replace it before needing your next timing belt if it starts failing... or worse, have it seize up and snap your belt/hose your motor. Don't use carb cleaner on your timing cover unless you have compressed air nearby. That stuff eats through plastic, so you'd want to blow it off of the part ASAP. If you do, then it's fine. Carb cleaner eats through paint and powder coating, too.
If your valve cover gasket is already leaking oil, now is the time to replace it.
If your cam or crank seals are leaking oil, replace them or else.
If your radiator hoses are in rough shape, now is the time to replace them.
If you haven't replaced your accessory belts, or if they're cracked, replace them. If your accessory belt tensioner pulley is noisy, feels gritty as it rotates, or doesn't spin freely, replace it.
1/4" drive ratchet and a 10mm shorty socket and a 10mm deep well for timing cover bolts.
Impact wrench for the crank pulley (nothing else is as easy as an impact wrench for this, I've had no success with anything else, but that's only because I have access to air tools).
Several cans of 2+2 carb and choke cleaner to clean the timing cover with.
Rags.
A gallon of antifreeze.
RTV sealant (orange or red stuff is fine). Use this on the water pump gasket. Makes life easier when installing it.
Breaker bar for motor mount bolts.
Drain pan for catching your antifreeze.
Floor jack to jack the engine back up so you can re-install the motor mount bolt.
That's about it. The crank pulley bolt is always the same size as the lug nut wrench on Hondas and most other cars. The timing belt tensioner is spring-loaded and supposed to set itself, make note of where the spring is connected and that it goes back exactly as it is. If I were you, I'd replace the timing tensioner pulley. It's a $35 part from the dealer, but well worth not having to go back in and replace it before needing your next timing belt if it starts failing... or worse, have it seize up and snap your belt/hose your motor. Don't use carb cleaner on your timing cover unless you have compressed air nearby. That stuff eats through plastic, so you'd want to blow it off of the part ASAP. If you do, then it's fine. Carb cleaner eats through paint and powder coating, too.
If your valve cover gasket is already leaking oil, now is the time to replace it.
If your cam or crank seals are leaking oil, replace them or else.
If your radiator hoses are in rough shape, now is the time to replace them.
If you haven't replaced your accessory belts, or if they're cracked, replace them. If your accessory belt tensioner pulley is noisy, feels gritty as it rotates, or doesn't spin freely, replace it.
An impact gun isn't always enough to get that crank pulley bolt off. I have an IR 1/2" gun with 120 psi behind it and it wouldn't budge. I bought a Moroso crank pulley tool, jam it into the ground and use a 18" 1/2" breaker bar with an impact socket and another 8-10 foot pipe on it to get mine loose.
Couple of hints, the A/C tensioner comes off if you pull the nut off the end, just make sure you remember what order everything goes back on (my D16Y8 you had to remove the tensioner bracket to change the belt). Find a good sized piece of 1/2" plywood to put between your jack saddle and the oil pan to keep from damagng it as well.
Oh yeah, make absolutely sure everything is set to TDC before you start and before you start putting everything back together. I did mine as the same time as my clutch so I just unbolted the engine and lowered it down and pulled it over to give myself room to work, but then I couldn't eyeball the cam pulley to make sure it was right and I think the crank pulley actually moved on me when I tensioning the belt. I had to pull it all apart a week later to fix it. Also, don't loose the little key from the crank pulley or your in trouble. Good luck.
Couple of hints, the A/C tensioner comes off if you pull the nut off the end, just make sure you remember what order everything goes back on (my D16Y8 you had to remove the tensioner bracket to change the belt). Find a good sized piece of 1/2" plywood to put between your jack saddle and the oil pan to keep from damagng it as well.
Oh yeah, make absolutely sure everything is set to TDC before you start and before you start putting everything back together. I did mine as the same time as my clutch so I just unbolted the engine and lowered it down and pulled it over to give myself room to work, but then I couldn't eyeball the cam pulley to make sure it was right and I think the crank pulley actually moved on me when I tensioning the belt. I had to pull it all apart a week later to fix it. Also, don't loose the little key from the crank pulley or your in trouble. Good luck.
__________________
Andy - Reinstated Hybrid Forum Moderator
'06 Subaru Legacy Spec B - Stock, for now
'98 Civic EX - CTR headlights and grill, Kosei K1's, for sale
'90 240SX - SR20DET that will never get installed, project car.
Andy - Reinstated Hybrid Forum Moderator
'06 Subaru Legacy Spec B - Stock, for now
'98 Civic EX - CTR headlights and grill, Kosei K1's, for sale
'90 240SX - SR20DET that will never get installed, project car.
Last edited by Andy; Apr 29, 2004 at 04:02 PM.


