got everything together and running tonight and i took it out for a drive. I got a CEL and i checked it and it was code 7, which is my throttle position sensor.

the swap starts up and idles like a champ. but after its been running for awhile, the idle starts to fluxuate between 700 and 1700 rpms. i don't have my secondary O2 hooked up yet cause i don't have a bung on my new cat. could this be the cause of the idling problem?

the swap also seems to bog out a little bit in like 3rd gear and when i'm in higher rpms. would this be related to the O2 sensor?

whats up with the TPS? is this causing the idling problem?

 

Im not sure about the idling, but when your car bogs down it can be one of two things, either your spark components (dizzy, plugs, wires) or it can be a problem with you not getting enough fuel.

 

the first thing to do is fix what you know is wrong... which is the o2 sensor, then figure out the tps issue.. then if your problem is still there.. thats when you would start changing out spark components and checking other things.

I would say the idle thing was the tps.. but it could also be the o2 sensor when your car goes into closed loop.

I picked this up from another forum.. almost makes it seem like the o2 sensor is causing the tps code. I would definately fix the second o2 first

"From what I understand, the coolant temp sensor for the ECU decides the open closed loop opperation when you first start the car. After its warmed up, its in closed loop reading from the o2 sensor. When you floor the car and it sees a WOT from the TPS, the ECU reads a preset map and ignores the 02 sensor. As far as I know, open/closed loop only applies to the temp of the engine and it reads preset maps when its floored. Under normal driving it uses the o2 sensor to calculate the cleanest A/F ratio for the environment.
"

 

okay update:

took the car out again. didn't do anything to fix it just wanted to see.

now the car no longer idles around 800 rpm on startup. It idles consistenly around 1900 rpm. the car still bogs a tiny bit as before, and i have no VTEC at all. Oil is good so that is not why VTEC is not working. i'm going to get the o2 sensor fixed tomorrow, i need to go get a bung welded onto the cat. the CEL is still throwing code 7. what do you guys think?

 

bumpity bump bump bump

 

maybe vtec doesn't engage because of the code let us know if the o2 sensor fixes anything

 

alright... did you do anything to the oil pan? I heard a rumor (im not sure if its true or not) that if the oil pan is dented to an extent, pressure within the pan will not allow vtec to kick in. how many miles was on that motor before you droped it in? is the vtec solenoid alright? sensors crossed? i swapped my friend setup and we had the eavc/iavc plugs that look the same in the worng places. both are behind the intake maniflood and it would not toss a cell light if they were pluged into the wrong place.. your idleing could also be your eavc/iavc thingie heres something to chekout ....

https://www.honda-acura.net/forums/s...d.php?t=129550

vaccume leak? do you think you have one? any open ports? if so simply cancel them out

 

I found this online and emailed it to myself.......although I can't rmember where I found it....
Also, I didn't use the little pin trick listed below I just skined the wires a bit...and an extra set of hands is mandatory...

************************************************** ********
Locate the TPS sensor. It's the black sensor located on the passenger side of the throttle body.

Connect scan tool or voltmeter.

(Note: To connect a voltmeter take a sewing pin and probe the middle red
wire. Connect voltmeter positive lead. Take another sewing pin and probe
the bottom black wire. Connect voltmeter negative lead.)
Turn ignition key to ON with engine OFF.
With the throttle in the closed (idle) position check scan tool to see if
the TPS is set within range (.36-.44)
With the throttle in the fully open position (WOT) check scan tool to see
if the TPS is set within range (4.50-4.85).
* If the idle and WOT settings are within range go to step 10.

(Note: Any obstruction under the accelerator pedal such as a floor mat and
transmission TV dent cable adjustment can affect WOT TPS setting. It's
best checked by a friend pressing down on the accelerator pedal.)

Loosen the two mounting screws just enough that the sensor can be moved.
The WOT TPS setting is attained by moving the TPS forward. Once you've got
it pulled forward cinch down on the bottom screw very lightly so it will
keep the bottom of the TPS from sliding backward. Then loosen top screw
just enough to allow the front of the TPS to be moved up or down with light
tapping. Moving the bottom of the TPS will adjust idle settings.
Tighten both adjustment screws.
Repeat steps 4-8 until proper idle and WOT settings are obtained.
Verify settings with a test drive.

diferent car but pretty much same procedures.
just check the stock voltage of the TPS for the motor your dealing with

 

i hope i don't have to buy a new tps

 

if ya do need a new tps I got one for sale.... real cheap for a HAN memeber