Hey folks, I'm putting on fresh front LCAs w/ new bushings and balljoint boots (I finally ponied up the dough for the rest of the ES bushings i've been missing). I was just wondering if anyone has any tips or anything to look out for when changing the front lower balljoints (putting my old ones on the new LCAs). I know how its done, but I've never focked with my balljoints before, and as is the case with most of these things, I'm sure its easier said than done. Anyways, tips or things to look out for. TIA

BTW, I've been busy as fock lately... nice to finally have some time to screw around with the car.

 

Honestly, I wouldn't out the ES boots on your balljoints. They don't seal right and they just squish out the grease.

As for replacing them, here's what I do:

- remove the entire hub assembly from the car
- remove the lower balljoint boot
- remove the 3 screws that hold the dust shield in place (I usually have to use pliars because of how the lug plate is in the way)
- rotate the dust shield so that the opening is down, facing the balljoint
- remove the metal ring that is on the inside of the hub (it's just a round metal piece that can be taken off by prying on it with a screwdriver)
- flip the whole hub assembly over so the lower balljoint is pointing up

if you don't have a press
- get a good sized hammer and deep well socket
- put the deep well over the balljoint so it rests on the lip of the balljoint, but doesn't hang over the edge
- hammer that bish till it popps out :irock:

if you have a press
- see above and repeat using the press instead of the hammer

- once you have the old one out, put some grease on the inside of the hole that you just took the balljoint out of
- get a new balljoint and remove the boot on it
- flip the hub assembly back over and rest the outside lower edge on something sturdy, but don't cover up the hole
- set the balljoint into the hole
- get that big hammer agan and whack it into place until it's setting flush
- reinstall all the stuff you removed and put it back on the car
- torque to 40 ft/lbs (or to where you can get the cotter pin back in)
- torque the upper balljoint and the tierod end to 32-35 ft/lbs
- torque the axle nut to spec (don't remember off the top of my head...)

That should be it.

 

Here's how I've done mine. Remove the cotter pin, break the castle nut loose but don't remove it. Leave it about half way off. Take a jack and put it under the brake rotor and lift it slightly. Not enough to pull the car off the jack stands but enough to put some weight on the suspension. Take a large hammer and smack the LCA where the ball joint goes through. The vibration from the hammer and the stress from the jack are usually enough to pop it loose and if your careful not to hit the boot with the hammer, the ball joint shouldn't be damaged. You can see and feel once it pops and if you leave the nut on, the spindle won't go anywhere either.

 

Maybe I overkilled this... I thought you were replacing balljoints. :loco:

 

Ha ha, I didn't even noticed you posted, I though I was the first reply. Axle nuts are 135 ft/lbs too.

 

Here's a time saver for the ball joints...

I don't remove the spindle assembly from the car. I just remove the axle nut and outer bearing, the strut fork bolt, separate the lower ball joint, pull the hub off the outer joint of the axle, and swivel the hub assembly to the side. You can get to the LBJ without having to remove it.

Here's another trick that will keep you from needing a bearing press, or from having to beat on it as much...

1. remove the snap ring that holds it in with a pair of snap-ring pliers (pictured below).

2. knock the old ball joint out with a BFH (pictured below)...

3. press the new joint in with 2 pairs of brake clamps (pictured below). Keep it greasy so it'll go down easy... it's held in with the snap ring so any kind of lube will do...

Then you just shove the axle back in it, bolt the lower control arm and strut fork back up, slap your bearings and axle nuts back in, throw the wheel back on. Half hour tops, but it sounds to me like you're replacing your LCA which will take a bit longer. If you can't knock the bushings out to replace them, melt them a bit with a torch and BFH them out.

Oh no... here comes that screamin' sownd again!

 

BTW: New ball joints cost $17 ea. at many aftermarket auto parts stores.

 

wow, email notification blows today. Anyway, thanks for the replies... I was planning on using the jack/bfh method. After doing the bushings with handtools last time, I decided to wuss out and took them to the shop to get pressed out. I'm a hypocrite h:

Any other concerns I should be thinking about?

:edit: Oh, BTW... I've heard plenty of people saying the ES boots don't look like they'd work, but have never heard of anyone's failing on them. I remember there was a thread a while back when a member (h22avid I think :thinking: ) was concerned over the soundness of the boots, but after talking to ES and inspecting the design, decided to go along with it. Any other input on these boots?

 

I had them on my upper & lower balljoints and my tierod ends. The only thing that happened was that the grease squished out and debris started to collect all around them.

I took them off.

 

I guess they're not really load-bearing, so stock wouldn't hurt. I just figure since I have them, I might as well use them... but if they don't work, they don't work :dunno: