Thread: balljoint tips?
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Old Mar 30, 2004 | 01:05 PM
  #2  
westcoaststyle's Avatar
westcoaststyle
Still here... sorta...
 
Joined: Sep 2000
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From: CO
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Honestly, I wouldn't out the ES boots on your balljoints. They don't seal right and they just squish out the grease.

As for replacing them, here's what I do:

- remove the entire hub assembly from the car
- remove the lower balljoint boot
- remove the 3 screws that hold the dust shield in place (I usually have to use pliars because of how the lug plate is in the way)
- rotate the dust shield so that the opening is down, facing the balljoint
- remove the metal ring that is on the inside of the hub (it's just a round metal piece that can be taken off by prying on it with a screwdriver)
- flip the whole hub assembly over so the lower balljoint is pointing up

if you don't have a press
- get a good sized hammer and deep well socket
- put the deep well over the balljoint so it rests on the lip of the balljoint, but doesn't hang over the edge
- hammer that bish till it popps out :irock:

if you have a press
- see above and repeat using the press instead of the hammer

- once you have the old one out, put some grease on the inside of the hole that you just took the balljoint out of
- get a new balljoint and remove the boot on it
- flip the hub assembly back over and rest the outside lower edge on something sturdy, but don't cover up the hole
- set the balljoint into the hole
- get that big hammer agan and whack it into place until it's setting flush
- reinstall all the stuff you removed and put it back on the car
- torque to 40 ft/lbs (or to where you can get the cotter pin back in)
- torque the upper balljoint and the tierod end to 32-35 ft/lbs
- torque the axle nut to spec (don't remember off the top of my head...)

That should be it.
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