My 270hp/185trq GSR motor!
it's my D in a B
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 24,787
Likes: 1
From: Your Mom's House
it doesn't have to be that expensive, guys... You can replicate that setup using off the shelf parts for ~$5k or less... But if you really want good all-motor power, its gonna cost you. We're not talking in the realm of straight swaps here, this is a built HO motor.
And as for the $10k price... once its on the market for a while, I'm sure the real price will be WAY lower. Otherwise its just not worth it to consumers... why overpay for a premade block when you can build the same thing for half the price? Even if it does end up being over market price... remember, this is a pre-assembled, ready-to-go motor with a warranty. I suspect the actual market price will end up around $6-$7k within a year or two... almost enough to justify the price... but not quite. I'll still build my own, thank you very much
h:
And as for the $10k price... once its on the market for a while, I'm sure the real price will be WAY lower. Otherwise its just not worth it to consumers... why overpay for a premade block when you can build the same thing for half the price? Even if it does end up being over market price... remember, this is a pre-assembled, ready-to-go motor with a warranty. I suspect the actual market price will end up around $6-$7k within a year or two... almost enough to justify the price... but not quite. I'll still build my own, thank you very much
h:
Thread Starter
JDM whore
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 1,114
Likes: 0
From: Virginia
white n slow: Good points. The Dart block alone retails for around 3k, right? I'm trying to see how good of a deal I can get on it, but I don't think its really that rediculous. I mean, its a Dart block, fully built internals, good hp/trq(even if it were rated at the flywheel), and a 1 year warranty.
Also, why does everything think it couldn't be 270whp? EricksRacing has a 300+hp GSR motor, and it has a decent amount of stock internals. I mean, it has a large bore, decent stroke, and the internals are decently beefy. I dunno...whatever....to each his own.
Someone wanna quote me comparable(or better) setup for less...and give me a 1 year warranty?
Also, why does everything think it couldn't be 270whp? EricksRacing has a 300+hp GSR motor, and it has a decent amount of stock internals. I mean, it has a large bore, decent stroke, and the internals are decently beefy. I dunno...whatever....to each his own.
Someone wanna quote me comparable(or better) setup for less...and give me a 1 year warranty?
it's my D in a B
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 24,787
Likes: 1
From: Your Mom's House
see, thats the kicker... you're not gonna get the peace of mind of a waranty from any other setup..
I'm sceptical of the power ratings for the basic reason that its a 11.5:1 crvtec (stock bore) with streetable valvetrain. You can make plenty of power w/ this setup, but it usually plateaus around 240-250 whp, and thats getting into the realm of non-street-freindly cams. Aside from the block, its no different from countless other crvtec setups... and the block itself doesn't make any power, just ensures you wont break anything.
Anyway as for building your own:
BLOCK:
B18/B20 block, sleeved, bored to 85mm
stock crank balanced, knife edged
rods (IB,probe) arp rod bolts
11.5:1 pistons
gsr crank girdle
...that block would be just as good as the dart in terms of holding n/a power
B16 head
mild port/valve work
S2, Crower, Toda etc Cams and valvetrain (whatever you decide is right for a streetable allmotor setup)
arp head studs
cometic 85mm headgasket
That right there (admittedly simplified), with some good dyno time, would put you around 230-240whp... Parts wise, this would be much cheaper. If you're not willing to assemble it, labor would drive up the cost. If you can assemble it (aside from the sleeves, obviously) then you're saving a crap-load.
And of course, with a sleeved n/a motor, you could easily up the compression (probably up to 12:1 if you have decent gas in your area), higher if theres a local station w/ 95+
But then again, it all depends on whether youre willing to go through collecting all the parts and planning to save money, or if you just want to pay lump some and get a finished product...
If all youre willing to takcle is the vtec conversion/head mounting, a number of places (like camp1320.com for instance) sell custom built B18/B20 short blocks for ~3-4k.
I'm sceptical of the power ratings for the basic reason that its a 11.5:1 crvtec (stock bore) with streetable valvetrain. You can make plenty of power w/ this setup, but it usually plateaus around 240-250 whp, and thats getting into the realm of non-street-freindly cams. Aside from the block, its no different from countless other crvtec setups... and the block itself doesn't make any power, just ensures you wont break anything.
Anyway as for building your own:
BLOCK:
B18/B20 block, sleeved, bored to 85mm
stock crank balanced, knife edged
rods (IB,probe) arp rod bolts
11.5:1 pistons
gsr crank girdle
...that block would be just as good as the dart in terms of holding n/a power
B16 head
mild port/valve work
S2, Crower, Toda etc Cams and valvetrain (whatever you decide is right for a streetable allmotor setup)
arp head studs
cometic 85mm headgasket
That right there (admittedly simplified), with some good dyno time, would put you around 230-240whp... Parts wise, this would be much cheaper. If you're not willing to assemble it, labor would drive up the cost. If you can assemble it (aside from the sleeves, obviously) then you're saving a crap-load.
And of course, with a sleeved n/a motor, you could easily up the compression (probably up to 12:1 if you have decent gas in your area), higher if theres a local station w/ 95+
But then again, it all depends on whether youre willing to go through collecting all the parts and planning to save money, or if you just want to pay lump some and get a finished product...
If all youre willing to takcle is the vtec conversion/head mounting, a number of places (like camp1320.com for instance) sell custom built B18/B20 short blocks for ~3-4k.
