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Online Resources - Updated 8/16/2005

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Old 02-23-2004, 07:21 PM
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westcoaststyle
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Default Online Resources - Updated 8/16/2005

First and foremost, Civics and Integras have ONE HEAD|ER|. Header(s) refers to multiple whereas these vehicles only use one headER due to the design of the exhaust manifold. Please, keep this in mind.

Research Information

www.howstuffworks.com

Manuals & Parts Catalogs

92-95 Civic Helms Manual: http://www.televar.com/~soxen/92-95-helms.pdf

94 Integra Helms Manual: http://tech.hybridgarage.com/tech/ma...e%20manual.pdf

5th gen Civic service manual: http://www.honda.co.uk/owner/civicManual/index.html

Various UK manuals: http://www.honda.co.uk/owner/serviceManualsPdf.jsp

Parts Catalogs & Manuals: http://icelord.net/honda/repair/

Electrical

GSR cluster into civic wiring diagram
https://www.honda-acura.net/forums/a...id=51278&stc=1

5th gen Civic underhood fuse diagram: http://spoon.org/civic/pics/93-Civic-Fuse-Block-2.jpg
5th gen Civic interior fuse diagram: http://spoon.org/civic/pics/Interior-Fuse-Panel.jpg
5th gen Civic fuse legend: http://spoon.org/civic/pics/93-Civic-Fuse-Block-1.jpg

Check Engine Light (CEL), what do I do?: http://www.c-speedracing.com/faq/03.php
Check your Check Engine Light (CEL): http://www.c-speedracing.com/faq/06.php
Define your Check Engine Light (CEL): http://www.c-speedracing.com/faq/05.php
Resetting DelSol's ECU: http://www.austrosol.com/tips/reset_ecu_eng.htm

Check yoru CEL with video and detailed codes: https://www.honda-acura.net/forums/s...d.php?t=185065

Wiring DSM injectors for Honda use: http://www.hstuners.com/forums/showt...threadid=11436

OBD1 - EG/DC ECU Pin Positions


OBD1 P30 ECU Pinout: http://tech2.hybridgarage.com/ecu.php?ecutype=p30_obd1

OBD1 P72 ECU Pinout: http://tech2.hybridgarage.com/ecu.php?ecutype=p72_obd1

Engine & Tuning & Cooling

Fuel Pump Replacement: https://www.honda-acura.net/forums/s....php?p=2337636

Turbocharging basics - LOTS of information: http://www.beesandgoats.com/boostfaq/g2icturbo.html

Honda/Acura Engine Codes - https://www.honda-acura.net/forums/s...ht=engine+code

How To Break In Your Engine For More Power & Less Wear: http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Skunk2 B18C1 intake manifold DIY (it's not just a bolt-on mod, the TB bracket will hit your hood if you don't follow these instructions): http://www.ff-squad.com/tech/howto/sk2manifold/

Skunk2 B18C1 intake manifold & Hondata intake gasket DIY: http://repo.jackmoves.com/album215

How to Change DelSol Spark Plugs: http://www.impactsites2000.com/autozone/delsolmod_1.htm

How to Install an Aftermarket Air Intake on a DelSol: http://www.impactsites2000.com/autozone/delsolmod_2.htm

KILLER ECU Info: http://ecu.ff-squad.com/info.htm

More Tech Info than you can shake a stick at: http://technet.ff-squad.com/

D and B series engine specifications: http://hybrid2.honda-perf.org/tech/engine.html & http://www.bseries.net/html/specs/benginespecs.php (Bseries only)

DIY Boost Controllers: http://www.c-speedracing.com/howto/mbc/mbc.php

Another DIY Boost Controller: http://www.geocities.com/chmwatson/FAQs/mbc.html

VAFC Installation: http://www.turbod16.com/viewtopic.php?t=1633

Another VAFC Installation: http://www.bseries.net/html/garage/vafc.php

96-2k Integra radiator swap (doesnt retain AC): http://repo.jackmoves.com/albun46

96-2k Greddy oil filter relocation kit install: http://repo.jackmoves.com/album128

96-2k Greddy oil catch can install (NA/FI): http://repo.jackmoves.com/album130

Turbo'd B18C1 Greddy 9mm catch can install: https://www.honda-acura.net/forums/s...d.php?t=106716

Bseries STR Cam Seal Install: http://repo.jackmoves.com/album159

Bseries Skunk2 Cam Gear Install: http://repo.jackmoves.com/album158

Drivetrain

15 minute axle replacement: https://www.honda-acura.net/forums/s...d.php?t=173647

Clutch/Flywheel upgrade DIY: https://www.honda-acura.net/forums/s....php?p=1715569

Bseries tranny specs: http://www.bseries.net/html/specs/btrannyspecs.php

Hybrid

92-95 Civic B18C1 swap: http://www.c-speedracing.com/howto/b18cswap/swap.php

96-2k B18C swap: http://repo.jackmoves.com/albun45

Site dedicated to Hybrids w/ tech articles and DIYs: http://www.hybridgarage.com/

Kseries into 92-95 Civic, 94-97 Sol, 94-01 Teg: http://www.k20a.org/EGK1.pdf

Kseries into EK: http://www.k20a.org/EKK1.pdf

Brakes & Suspension

Civic/Teg Omnipower Camber Kit Install: https://www.honda-acura.net/forums/s...79#post2209279

Civic/Teg - Changing front & rear disc brake pads and rotors: http://www.g2ic.com/tegtips/brakesus/5.html

5th gen (1992 - 1995) Civic Rear Disc Brake Conversion: http://www.hybridgarage.com/tech/brakeswap.html

Skunk2 camber kit DIY install: https://www.honda-acura.net/forums/s...d.php?t=127432

Ingalls camber kit install ('92-'95): https://www.honda-acura.net/forums/s...94#post1585894

Rear Camber Adjustment (Cheaper than a Kit): http://home.earthlink.net/~civicex95/rearcamber.html

96-2k rear integra disc brake swap: http://repo.jackmoves.com/album55

JDM ITR master cylinder/brake booster: https://www.honda-acura.net/forums/s...d.php?t=134103

Wheel offset explained: https://www.honda-acura.net/forums/s...50&postcount=2


Exterior

DIY for fitting H4 HID's in an H4h housing: http://www.turntableteknicianz.com/carpics/TL%20HID.htm (if you can get a D2R/S bulb)

Difference between H4 and H4h:
http://oregonstate.edu/~blackry/pic...s/h4andh4h3.jpg
http://oregonstate.edu/~blackry/pic...s/h4andh4h2.jpg
http://oregonstate.edu/~blackry/pic...rs/h4andh4h.jpg
(H4h is the smaller/shorter bulb)

More H4h HID retrofit info: https://www.honda-acura.net/forums/s...ead.php?t=83554

'96-'98 Civic all OEM power window converstion: http://repo.jackmoves.com/album206

Honda Civic 96-00: DIY CTR Headlights Guide(with Pictures): https://www.honda-acura.net/forums/s...00#post1587100

How To Install JDM Side Markers on EG: http://students.washington.edu/krist.../side/side.htm

99-00 Si Lip Install on EG: http://www.jdmvtec.com/silipinstall.html

EG Type R Lip Install: http://www.autodynamic.com/transfer/...ykit-typer.htm

EG Power Mirror Installation Guide: http://www.courtlukens.com/folding_mirror.htm

Sylvania Automotive Light Replacement Guide: http://www.sylvania.com/auto/carapp/

92-95 to 96-2k mirror conversion: http://repo.jackmoves.com/album104

99-2k Grille removal (hardly a how to): http://repo.jackmoves.com/album146

Interior

Integra GSR/ITR Cluster in EG/EK: http://patriot.net/~merritt/gauge.html

Integra GSR Cluster in EG: http://www.geocities.com/cinq112/gsrclusterswap.html

6th Gen gauge cluster swap - no tach to tach: http://repo.jackmoves.com/album161

96-2000 steering wheel install with SRS disable: http://repo.jackmoves.com/album244

96-98 Civic Dash swap to 99-00: http://repo.jackmoves.com/album228

5th Gen climate control removal and change-over to the JDM pannel: http://www.clubcivicquebec.com/site/...metic/005.html

From Jafro regarding gauge cluster swappage
***
There is now a DIY in the tech forums concerning the swapping of gauge clusters for 5g and maybe 6g civics. I don't know what's new after '96, but I documented how I changed my cluster and kept the mileage on my odometer accurate. The thread is located HERE.

or here if you prefer...
https://www.honda-acura.net/forums/s...31#post2146031

There are also several other threads where this has been discussed at length. They can be found in these following threads...

https://www.honda-acura.net/forums/s...=swap+clusters
https://www.honda-acura.net/forums/s...=swap+clusters
https://www.honda-acura.net/forums/s...=swap+clusters
https://www.honda-acura.net/forums/s...=swap+clusters
https://www.honda-acura.net/forums/s...=swap+clusters
https://www.honda-acura.net/forums/s...=swap+clusters
https://www.honda-acura.net/forums/s...=swap+clusters
***

Security

Fuel Pump Cutoff Switch: http://www.teamdelsolwa.com/howto/fuelcutoff.htm

Misc & Large Listings

Numerous Del Sol How-Tos: http://www.teamdelsolwa.com/howto.html

Many excellent engine/suspension/fuel/etc. DIYs: http://www.c-speedracing.com/howto.php

DelSol Leaking Roof Clip Replacement: http://www.elneckio.com/stuff/crx/ne.../newclips.html

DelSol Rear Window Drain Pipe Cleaning: http://www.elneckio.com/stuff/crx/sl...pipeclean.html

DelSol History and Commentary: http://www.musclecarclub.com/other-c...-del-sol.shtml

DelSol Technical Specifications: http://members.lycos.nl/hendrik/delsol/soltech.htm

Many, many important resources: http://www.hondaswap.com/forums/index.php?showforum=33

92-95 power window/mirror/lock conversion: http://repo.jackmoves.com/albun42

96-2k Power steering conversion: http://repo.jackmoves.com/album119

96-2k complete front subframe swap/repair: http://repo.jackmoves.com/album139

Bunch of great DIYs: http://repo.jackmoves.com/album129

HAZONE various DIYs: http://www.hazone.com/hhowto.htm

HONDA's own DIY install instructions: http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/instal/instal.htm

Spectacular set of articles here (includes N/A B20 build-up, engine building tips, and more): http://www.theoldone.com/articles/

**********
If you have some to add, PM me and I'll drop them in.

Thanks!
Josh
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Last edited by westcoaststyle; 09-17-2005 at 09:31 AM.
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Old 08-16-2005, 12:30 PM
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Default Backpressure: The myth and why it's wrong.

Originally Posted by sleeping_civic

I. Introduction

One of the most misunderstood concepts in exhaust theory is backpressure. People love to talk about backpressure on message boards with no real understanding of what it is and what it's consequences are. I'm sure many of you have heard or read the phrase "Hondas need backpressure" when discussing exhaust upgrades. That phrase is in fact completely inaccurate and a wholly misguided notion.

II. Some basic exhaust theory

Your exhaust system is designed to evacuate gases from the combustion chamber quickly and efficently. Exhaust gases are not produced in a smooth stream; exhaust gases originate in pulses. A 4 cylinder motor will have 4 distinct pulses per complete engine cycle, a 6 cylinder has 6 pules and so on. The more pulses that are produced, the more continuous the exhaust flow. Backpressure can be loosely defined as the resistance to positive flow - in this case, the resistance to positive flow of the exhaust stream.

III. Backpressure and velocity

Some people operate under the misguided notion that wider pipes are more effective at clearing the combustion chamber than narrower pipes. It's not hard to see how this misconception is appealing - wider pipes have the capability to flow more than narrower pipes. So if they have the ability to flow more, why isn't "wider is better" a good rule of thumb for exhaust upgrading? In a word - VELOCITY. I'm sure that all of you have at one time used a garden hose w/o a spray nozzle on it. If you let the water just run unrestricted out of the house it flows at a rather slow rate. However, if you take your finger and cover part of the opening, the water will flow out at a much much faster rate.

The astute exhaust designer knows that you must balance flow capacity with velocity. You want the exhaust gases to exit the chamber and speed along at the highest velocity possible - you want a FAST exhaust stream. If you have two exhaust pulses of equal volume, one in a 2" pipe and one in a 3" pipe, the pulse in the 2" pipe will be traveling considerably FASTER than the pulse in the 3" pipe. While it is true that the narrower the pipe, the higher the velocity of the exiting gases, you want make sure the pipe is wide enough so that there is as little backpressure as possible while maintaining suitable exhaust gas velocity. Backpressure in it's most extreme form can lead to reversion of the exhaust stream - that is to say the exhaust flows backwards, which is not good. The trick is to have a pipe that that is as narrow as possible while having as close to zero backpressure as possible at the RPM range you want your power band to be located at. Exhaust pipe diameters are best suited to a particular RPM range. A smaller pipe diameter will produce higher exhaust velocities at a lower RPM but create unacceptably high amounts of backpressure at high rpm. Thus if your powerband is located 2-3000 RPM you'd want a narrower pipe than if your powerband is located at 8-9000RPM.

Many engineers try to work around the RPM specific nature of pipe diameters by using setups that are capable of creating a similar effect as a change in pipe diameter on the fly. The most advanced is Ferrari's which consists of two exhaust paths after the header - at low RPM only one path is open to maintain exhaust velocity, but as RPM climbs and exhaust volume increases, the second path is opened to curb backpressure - since there is greater exhaust volume there is no loss in flow velocity. BMW and Nissan use a simpler and less effective method - there is a single exhaust path to the muffler; the muffler has two paths; one path is closed at low RPM but both are open at high RPM.

IV. So how did this myth come to be?

I often wonder how the myth "Hondas need backpressure" came to be. Mostly I believe it is a misunderstanding of what is going on with the exhaust stream as pipe diameters change. For instance, someone with a civic decides he's going to uprade his exhaust with a 3" diameter piping. Once it's installed the owner notices that he seems to have lost a good bit of power throughout the powerband. He makes the connections in the following manner: "My wider exhaust eliminated all backpressure but I lost power, therefore the motor must need some backpressure in order to make power." What he did not realize is that he killed off all his flow velocity by using such a ridiculously wide pipe. It would have been possible for him to achieve close to zero backpressure with a much narrower pipe - in that way he would not have lost all his flow velocity.

V. So why is exhaust velocity so important?

The faster an exhaust pulse moves, the better it can scavenge out all of the spent gasses during valve overlap. The guiding principles of exhaust pulse scavenging are a bit beyond the scope of this doc but the general idea is a fast moving pulse creates a low pressure area behind it. This low pressure area acts as a vacuum and draws along the air behind it. A similar example would be a vehicle traveling at a high rate of speed on a dusty road. There is a low pressure area immediately behind the moving vehicle - dust particles get sucked into this low pressure area causing it to collect on the back of the vehicle. This effect is most noticeable on vans and hatchbacks which tend to create large trailing low pressure areas - giving rise to the numerous "wash me please" messages written in the thickly collected dust on the rear door(s).

VI. Conclusion.

SO it turns out that Hondas don't need backpressure, they need as high a flow velocity as possible with as little backpressure as possible.
Submitted by VTEC-Power

Originally Posted by Jafro
Some of you asked for a better explanation about restriction in a turbo exhaust, so here 'goes. To sum it all up, on a turbo car, the tighter and more restricted the exhaust housing of the turbo is, the faster you're going to spool your turbo... because the restricted gasses escape through the exhaust housing with more velocity (much like the garden hose description quoted above)... but with this restriction comes the downside. Less exhaust volume will be able to fit through that turbine housing once the turbo is spooled and starts squishing more air through the intake.

This is where the wastegate comes into play. The wastegate is actuated BEFORE the exhaust wheel in the exhaust housing. When it opens, whatever the diameter of your wastegate is gets added to your exhaust piping. Effectively increasing the capacity of the exhaust provided that everything downstream is large enough in diameter to handle it the extra flow. The main reason it does this is to prevent over-spooling the turbo. Once the turbo reaches its efficiency, it doesn't need to flow all the extra gasses through the turbine wheel, so the wastegate allows you to route the exhaust around the turbo... if it can't route enough exhaust around the turbo (restricted wastegate) then too much exhaust gas will be forced by the exhaust wheel and BOOST CREEP will occur as your turbo over-spools.

One way to prevent boost creep is to port the wastegate housing (if you have an internally gated turbo) or to replace the wastegate with a bigger unit. If that still doesn't work, then the problem is likely going to be a restriction in the exhaust downstream from the wastegate. Many overboosted car owners prefer to vent their wastegate dumps to the atmosphere. Not only is it illegal to bypass your catalytic converter, but it's loud as hell, gets your engine bay filthy, and clogs up your K&N like nobody's business; however, it nearly eliminates boost creep. It's a cheap and easy solution that fixes boost creep on a race car.

The best solution to boost creep is to route your wastegate dump past the catalytic converter and back into the exhaust. It will be a custom setup. Nobody makes this. Make it look clean and you'll pass emissions because they don't run your car hard enough to open the wastegate when doing emissions testing. You have to reach full boost for the wastegate to open, and since the exhaust runs through the cat until the wastegate opens, it all gets "cleaned" before it reaches the sniffer. With this setup, the wastegate will also be much quieter because it still runs through the muffler, and you won't trash your engine bay with black caustic funk.

Putting a separate catalytic converter on your wastegate dump is a stupid idea because you'll never get it hot enough to "light off" and start converting the carbon monoxide... so don't get any crazy ideas and create unnecessary exhaust restrictions.

Once compressed air comes into the mix with an engine, exhaust tuning has much less to do with making power. So what if you can milk another 3-5 hp out of a car with a tuned exhaust... the benefits of making an engine sustain an insane final compression ratio (boosted air x compression in the combustion chamber) has much more affect on making power if you can just get rid of the extra gasses it produces. Bigger is almost always better on a turbo setup. The only place where it isn't good is on the exhaust wheel where too big can = no chance of spooling your oversized turbo any time this year.
Related Thread: https://www.honda-acura.net/forums/s....php?p=2453604

Last edited by westcoaststyle; 08-18-2005 at 07:15 AM.
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Old 08-16-2005, 12:34 PM
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Default A little about VTEC...

Originally Posted by VTEC-Power
The reason I am posting this is becuase I tired of noobs asking what is VTEC, and How does it work?

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/question229.htm

and also



Honda first introduced the DOHC VTEC mechanism in the US on the 1990 Acura NSX. But a year earlier in 1989, the Japan Domestic Market got the world's first dose of DOHC VTEC in the 1989-1993 generation of the Honda Integra. The 1989 DA6 Honda Integra RSi/XSi used a 160ps variant of the B16A DOHC VTEC engine. Honda enthusiasts would recongnize the B16A engine since it is currently used in the 1999 and 2000 US-spec Civic Si and Canada-spec Civic SiR. However the B16A used in the current Civics is a second version of the original B16A. The main difference is that the newer US-spec B16A has slightly more power at 160hp.

Okay that's enough history. Lets see how DOHC VTEC works. The figure to the right shows a simplified representation of a intake-valve VTEC mechanism (the exhaust mechanisms work similarly). So for each pair of valves, there are three cam lobes. The two on the outside are low RPM lobes and the one in the middle is the high RPM lobe. The two low RPM lobes actuate the two valve rockers, which in turn pushes the valves open. The high RPM lobe actuates a follower, which is shaped like a valve rocker, but doesn't actuate any valves. The figures show the circular section of the cam lobes touching the valve rockers, and the eliptical section pointing away. Thus the valves are closed in this stage.

During low RPM operations, the two outer cam lobes directly actuates the two valve rockers. These low PRM lobes are optimized for smooth operation and low fuel consumption. The high RPM lobe actuates the follower. But since the follower isn't connected to anything, it doesn't cause anything to happen. This procss is illustrated by the figure to the right.

At high RPMs, oil pressure pushes a metal pin through the valve rockers and the follower, effectively binding the three pieces into one. And since the high RPM lobe pushes out further than the low RPM lobes, the two valve rockers now follow the the profile of the high RPM lobe. The high RPM lobe's profile is designed to open the valves open wider, and for a longer duration of time, thus allowing more fuel/air mixture to enter the cylinder. The improved breathing allows the engine to sustain its torque output as RPM rises, thus resulting in higher power output

That is basically how VTEC works. The picture to the right is a picture of an actual DOHC VTEC engine. Note that there are two cam shafts, one for the intake valves and one for the exhaust valves. For each pair of valves, notice that there are three cam lobes: two cam lobes on the outside, and one cam lobe in the middle.

As I've said before. The VTEC mechanism is nothing spectacular. DOHC VTEC is the most ambitious of all VTEC varieties in terms of specific output (except for the up coming VTEC-i). Yet as you can see, the implementation is elegantly simple. VTEC is Honda's solution to the design goal of improving engine breathing at high RPMs while retaining smooth and economical operation at low RPMs. DOHC VTEC technology is currently used in the 160HP Civic Si, 170HP Integra GS-R, 195HP Integra Type-R, 200HP Prelude base/Type-SH, 240HP S2000 and the venerable 290HP Acura NSX. And these are just the US-spec cars. Saying that VTEC is a successful design is an understatement.
Related Thread: https://www.honda-acura.net/forums/s...d.php?t=200220
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