Do you guys think an H22 engine would be good? I think I need a kit to fit that in, right?

 

H22 is a cheaper swap. Although...the H22 will be a lot heavier and also requires custom mounts or a mounting kit to bolt in. You save money on the swap...but you spend more on hardware.

 

if ur looking for a shop to do it, u could use google and type in honda engine swap then your state or something like that, thats how i found the one near me

 

It's not a modification... so technically, a conversion? h:

 

New to this site and couldnt figure out how to post, so I'm just using someones elses post. Anyways, I have a 93 integra ls and want to know the best way to get the best bang for the buck. Whether it be engine swap, turbo-charging, super-charging, adding flux capacitor...whatever the case maybe.

 

You'd get a better response creating your own thread on this. Click here to create a new thread

Try searching before you post this thread though. The topic has been covered many times.

 

Not True, I converted my 5G Coupe from auto to manual when I dropped the H22 in... easy as can be.

Get the pedals & Clutch Master Cylinder and hard lines from salvage short a few wires from your Automatic Gear Selector and voila you have a manual. It cost me about $75 in salvage parts, $5 in wiring stuff and a few hours.:thumbup:

Since I swapped the H22 in, it came with my shifter and cables so if you're swapping another motor you'll have to get the shifter and linkage from salvage too so maybe the auto to manual conversion will cost about $200 for all the parts from salvage:thumbup:

 

Ok, I'll post a few pics of the wiring how to one-by-one because I'm too lazy to host them.

First, this is the gear selector slider from the auto's shifter. I actually removed the whole piece and just shorted the wires at the harnes that the slider plugs into but I'll start here to get you familiar with the surroundings

1. You want to short the two wires circled in green(blk/rd blk/wht) so that you can start your car. These are the ignition wires that are shorted when the shifter is in park.

2. The wires circled in pink are: Key interlock (grn/wht next to ignition wires), Cruise Control (pink wire), and ground (black wire). If you don't have cruise then you won't have pink. You'll want to short all three wires circled in pink so that your keys can be removed and cruise control will work. The six green wires on the left that are not circled are the gauge lights that indicate which gear the auto is in. For the hell of it, I shorted the grn/blk one from this set with the rest of the ones circled in pink so that my drive light would be on in my dash.

3. The wires circled in yellow (grn/blk yellow) are your reverse sensor wires. Theses will be run to the reverse sensor wires on your tranny so your reverse lights will work. I actuually traced these back to the firewall with a wire tracer and connected them there.

Now like I said I didn't actually leave this gear selector in the car. I just cut all the wires back behind the connector where the slider plugs into the harnes and shorted my wires there... you'll see in the next pics.

 

Here is the gear selector slider and the connector at the harness... This is when I first started to hook up my reverse wires before I ditched that plan and decide to trace the reverse wires from the gear selector through the harness and back to the firewall by the fuse box. That is where I ultimately ended up connecting my reverse wires from the gear slector to the reverse wires coming from the tranny which also come through the firewall from the engine bay with the rest of the harness... but it can be done this way too.

 

These are the color of the three wires on the other side of the connector that were circled in pink in the first pic of the gear selector. They are the ground(blk), cruise(pink), and key interlock (grn). They are pretty much the same color but have silver stripes on them. Like I said I just followed the wires from the gear selector through the harnes connector and shorted them behind the connector so I could cut out the gear selector and connector all together. Just short all three of these wires together and you'll have cruise & removable keys.

Word of caution!!! If you don't replace the Automatics Cruise Control Box near your fuses with a Manual Cruise Control Box, it acts a lil funny. Cruise will still work but to disengage cruise once it is set, it is safest to so it by hitting the button on your dash. Normally in a manual, you can just press the clutch etc. but that won't work if you still have the Automatic Cruise Control Box because it doesn't know what a clutch is.