brake recos
07-21-2002, 06:35 AM
#1
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brake recos
sounds like the squeelers hitting on my ej6 now at about 45,000 miles, (normal to be this early?)
anyway, i could use some recos on new pads and rotors for the front, as I dont believe the rears are ready yet.
also, is there a sure way to tell if the shoes are shot other than the squeeler? the pads still look pretty thick, but i know they did too on my s10 and they were shot by the time i tore em off.
also, any recos on easist ways to change this ****, im more than open, i know inspyral reco'd a impact driver, so ill go pick one of those up, by besides taht, what else?
anyway, i could use some recos on new pads and rotors for the front, as I dont believe the rears are ready yet.
also, is there a sure way to tell if the shoes are shot other than the squeeler? the pads still look pretty thick, but i know they did too on my s10 and they were shot by the time i tore em off.
also, any recos on easist ways to change this ****, im more than open, i know inspyral reco'd a impact driver, so ill go pick one of those up, by besides taht, what else?
07-21-2002, 07:55 AM
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im picking up some brembo slotted/drilled from GBC. is there any reason to get them slotted or drilled... and not both? they offer this as an option, and im curious as to why.
proly be picking up some AEM pads, any objections?
proly be picking up some AEM pads, any objections?
07-21-2002, 11:33 AM
#3
it's my D in a B
Originally posted by fujiwara takumi
proly be picking up some AEM pads, any objections?
proly be picking up some AEM pads, any objections?
07-21-2002, 05:16 PM
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Originally posted by white_n_slow
AEM pads are good, or so I've heard. But ebc pads are awesome, and if I'm not mistaken, a bit cheaper.
AEM pads are good, or so I've heard. But ebc pads are awesome, and if I'm not mistaken, a bit cheaper.
07-21-2002, 07:35 PM
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Spec5
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personally, as a fellow cheap ass, you should goto trak auto...
lifetime warantee on pads... if they wear out you get another free pair. i just replaced my rear ones for free
bendix is good if you goto a local auto store.
checking the pads: take your wheel off and stick your head into the wheel well with a light. and check the thickness of them. (or you can look through that little window on the side of the caliper) if they look they have about 1 mm of pad left might as well change'em if they are like 2+ mm they are still good and your brakes might just be squeelin. if they are just squeelin and they ahve lotsa pad left go buy some of that orange anti squeelin stuff you past between the pad and the caliper
replacement: they are easy as hell. 10mm socket and rachet... and loosen. if you have trouble, find a pipe to stick on the end to get more leverage. once you loosen them, they can pretty much be taken off by hand. wiggle the caliper off, and rest it somewhere so it doesn't hang on the brake line. Take a C-clamp and push the caliper back in with one of the old pads as a surface on the piston. voila, its back in. put new pads on, swap over the anti noise shim, and apply that paste that prevents squeelin.
i am pretty sure all civics are the same brake design wise from my gen on, so the back you cant' just push the pison back in. you have to twist it back in. while you are in the process of pusing the pistons back in, you can bleed the brake fluid too if you want. not always necessary.
rotors, take those two philips head screws off and it should pretty much come off. BUT the philips screws are a ***** to get off, don'dt strip them.
cross drilled/slotted: brembo is good. some brands that drilled warped easliy.. but brembo should be okay. both designs keeps break dust low and prevents fade by keeping cool.
lifetime warantee on pads... if they wear out you get another free pair. i just replaced my rear ones for free
bendix is good if you goto a local auto store.checking the pads: take your wheel off and stick your head into the wheel well with a light. and check the thickness of them. (or you can look through that little window on the side of the caliper) if they look they have about 1 mm of pad left might as well change'em if they are like 2+ mm they are still good and your brakes might just be squeelin. if they are just squeelin and they ahve lotsa pad left go buy some of that orange anti squeelin stuff you past between the pad and the caliper
replacement: they are easy as hell. 10mm socket and rachet... and loosen. if you have trouble, find a pipe to stick on the end to get more leverage. once you loosen them, they can pretty much be taken off by hand. wiggle the caliper off, and rest it somewhere so it doesn't hang on the brake line. Take a C-clamp and push the caliper back in with one of the old pads as a surface on the piston. voila, its back in. put new pads on, swap over the anti noise shim, and apply that paste that prevents squeelin.
i am pretty sure all civics are the same brake design wise from my gen on, so the back you cant' just push the pison back in. you have to twist it back in. while you are in the process of pusing the pistons back in, you can bleed the brake fluid too if you want. not always necessary.
rotors, take those two philips head screws off and it should pretty much come off. BUT the philips screws are a ***** to get off, don'dt strip them.
cross drilled/slotted: brembo is good. some brands that drilled warped easliy.. but brembo should be okay. both designs keeps break dust low and prevents fade by keeping cool.
07-21-2002, 07:42 PM
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Originally posted by derf
personally, as a fellow cheap ass, you should goto trak auto...
lifetime warantee on pads... if they wear out you get another free pair. i just replaced my rear ones for free bendix is good if you goto a local auto store.
checking the pads: take your wheel off and stick your head into the wheel well with a light. and check the thickness of them. (or you can look through that little window on the side of the caliper) if they look they have about 1 mm of pad left might as well change'em if they are like 2+ mm they are still good and your brakes might just be squeelin. if they are just squeelin and they ahve lotsa pad left go buy some of that orange anti squeelin stuff you past between the pad and the caliper
replacement: they are easy as hell. 10mm socket and rachet... and loosen. if you have trouble, find a pipe to stick on the end to get more leverage. once you loosen them, they can pretty much be taken off by hand. wiggle the caliper off, and rest it somewhere so it doesn't hang on the brake line. Take a C-clamp and push the caliper back in with one of the old pads as a surface on the piston. voila, its back in. put new pads on, swap over the anti noise shim, and apply that paste that prevents squeelin.
i am pretty sure all civics are the same brake design wise from my gen on, so the back you cant' just push the pison back in. you have to twist it back in. while you are in the process of pusing the pistons back in, you can bleed the brake fluid too if you want. not always necessary.
rotors, take those two philips head screws off and it should pretty much come off. BUT the philips screws are a ***** to get off, don'dt strip them.
cross drilled/slotted: brembo is good. some brands that drilled warped easliy.. but brembo should be okay. both designs keeps break dust low and prevents fade by keeping cool.
personally, as a fellow cheap ass, you should goto trak auto...
lifetime warantee on pads... if they wear out you get another free pair. i just replaced my rear ones for free
bendix is good if you goto a local auto store.checking the pads: take your wheel off and stick your head into the wheel well with a light. and check the thickness of them. (or you can look through that little window on the side of the caliper) if they look they have about 1 mm of pad left might as well change'em if they are like 2+ mm they are still good and your brakes might just be squeelin. if they are just squeelin and they ahve lotsa pad left go buy some of that orange anti squeelin stuff you past between the pad and the caliper
replacement: they are easy as hell. 10mm socket and rachet... and loosen. if you have trouble, find a pipe to stick on the end to get more leverage. once you loosen them, they can pretty much be taken off by hand. wiggle the caliper off, and rest it somewhere so it doesn't hang on the brake line. Take a C-clamp and push the caliper back in with one of the old pads as a surface on the piston. voila, its back in. put new pads on, swap over the anti noise shim, and apply that paste that prevents squeelin.
i am pretty sure all civics are the same brake design wise from my gen on, so the back you cant' just push the pison back in. you have to twist it back in. while you are in the process of pusing the pistons back in, you can bleed the brake fluid too if you want. not always necessary.
rotors, take those two philips head screws off and it should pretty much come off. BUT the philips screws are a ***** to get off, don'dt strip them.
cross drilled/slotted: brembo is good. some brands that drilled warped easliy.. but brembo should be okay. both designs keeps break dust low and prevents fade by keeping cool.
i dont cheap out on brakes, theyre important. i have ordered a pair of brembo slotted/drilled, (as of tomorrow, $125 shipped) and AEM pads tonight ($40 shipped).
lifes good.
impact driver -- not the same thing as an impact wrench. an impact driver is a twisty thing with a phillips head on it that you beat the piss out of with a hammer. as you hammer it turns the screw.
i have an impact gun too, its electric, you can get better ones that are pneumatic, but i dont have a big enough air compressor for that, (yet :naughty: )
also, i have a lot of pad left, but thats definetely the squeeler im hearing. i had a lot of pad left on my s10, and i waited and waited and ****ed the rotors. i hate these rotors, and theyre warped, so its just better that i replace them now.
07-21-2002, 07:48 PM
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I'm RICK JAMES, bitch!
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How much are Impact Drivers? I'm changing Rotors soon and I don't want to strip my screws so I will get the proper tools. What does one of them run?