Okay, while that site has the right idea on how to build a kit, completely ignore item #1 on how a turbo system works (the wastegate section), because it is inaccurate.

A wastegate does not slow down the air going to the turbo, it vents it to the atmosphere or into your exhaust system, beyond the turbo.

Wrong again. "Too much" boost = too much pressure + too much heat + poor fuel management (FMU ) = detonation = goodbye motor!


Okay, back on to your questions: An electronic boost controller is a very nice thing to have, because it will allow you to limit the amount of boost your engine gets at any particular time.

For example, you are driving to the grocery store. You do not need 8 pounds of boost to take a left on Main Street, so for day-to-day use, you have your controller set to give you no more than 5 pounds. Enough for a little bit of pep, but nothing that would slaughter your gas mileage or your engine. But on track day (or when you come across a playful C5 Corvette on the way to the store), you can hit your happy little scramble button, which you have set to bump you up to 10 pounds of boost for 60 seconds. Enough to get you to the end of the drag strip/Solo I/II course, or give that C5 something to think about.

With a manual boost controller, you're much more likely to set the boost higher as a just in case measure, or when you go out for some fun, and then you're stuck with that setting until you have time to pop your hood and adjust it. Some boost controllers also have a couple extra goodies like an integrated boost gauge, etc, that can make them handy in other ways.

Now, FMUs: Like Mike said,
And I agree totally. Check out his post above to learn why, I don't feel like rewording.

That is all a FMU does. For every 1 psi of boost you run, the FMU will give you an additional 8 or 12 psi of fuel pressure. That's a nasty way to do things. On a basic level, each pound of boost you run does not need the same amount. Obviously, the higher the pressure, the hotter your exhaust gases are, the faster the turbo is spinning, which means your intake temperatures are climbing fast. Colder intake temps = more air, so obviously 1 psi of charge @ 100 degrees needs more fuel than 1 psi of charge @ 200 degrees. But the FMU doesn't care, you get 8 or 12 psi for each pound of boost. The ECU will try to compensate (it knows your intake temps via your IAT sensor), but it isn't expecting the fuel pressures that the FMU is dishing out. Plus, your stock IAT sensor really isn't responsive enough for a turbo environment (A NA car's intake temp doesn't change 100 degrees in 8 seconds), but that's another conversation.

What I would advise you to do is do the turbo kit first, then the body kit. This will ensure that you don't go cheap with the turbo setup, which is begging for trouble.

On the fuel management side of things, I would recommend either:

• Apexi V-AFC paired up with a AVC-R (boost controller). They can hook together and allow the V-AFC to do some fuel modification based on pressure. Relatively easy to understand and tune, but without the bonuses of the other two options, and is piggyback, which limits your tuning options.
• Hondata. Great system, accounts for boost, extra goodies. Will still need an external boost controller. I'd advise you to get a pro to help you tune this, preferably on a dyno. Standalone system.
• AEM EMS. All that and a bag of chips, but a price tag to match. Not an easy system for an amateur to tune, think twice before doing this on your own. Standalone system.

Also, I'd consider getting a new fuel pump & injectors if you are going to be running even moderate amounts of boost. There isn't a whole lot to play with in the stock fuel system, and a turbo car needs more fuel per horsepower than an NA car. If you are going to get one or the other, pick up the pump first.


Okay, that's your homework, read chapters one through three for tomorrow. It will be on the quiz. If you need me to explain piggyback vs. standalone fuel management, just ask.