mberndt,

No offence dude, but you have A LOT too learn about AFR tuning in general. You can be too rich you know. You can be rich to the point where you can start to wash your rings. Does your AFR gauge tell you whether you running precisely 9:1 AFR or 11:1 AFR? all your gauge knows is that it is rich. Your gauge might say 10 AFR, and that makes you think you are safe. But those AFR gauges can be off by as much as 2-3 points. So that means that it can say 10 AFR, but your actual AFR might be 8, 9, 10, or even 11, 12, or 13 to 1. While I was street tuning my car it was running very rich almost to the point where I was going to wash the rings. My WB controller was reading 10:1 and it got as low as 9:1, which is dangerously rich. And you know what? my "butt dyno" could not tell the difference when my whole boost map was reading 9:1, 10:1 and then 11:1.

A wideband is not just good for optimizing your fuel to make power. It is also good for adjusting your fuel so you dont blow your motor. An FMU and inline pump is fine if that's all you are using. It raises fuel almost predictabely. The only thing that could throw it off is the condition of your fuel system. Just cause you have a T28 doesn't mean anything, you can still blow your motor with that, or wash your rings like I mentioned earlier.

And if you are a cheapskate, then you dont even need to buy your own wideband setup. You could borrow somebody elses. But a wideband setup only costs $270-$330 shipped and that's it. I sold my brand new Zeitronix Zt-2 for $225 just a few weeks ago. Widebands are not that expensive, and they are not that hard to install. There is also Uberdata and CromeFREE which you can use to adjust your fuel and timing with more flexibility then an AFC hack or FMU setup. For around $250 you can have a UD or Crome ready setup, and that price includesw a new Walbro 190 or 255lph fuel pump, DSM 450's, a chip burner, and to pay somebody to solder up your ECU.