changing front pads is a farily simple process, usually you can get away with removing one of the two bolts holding the caliper to the steering nuckle, and rotating the caliper upwards using the seccond bolt as a piviot point. once you have sufficently exposed the pads you should be able to remove them fairly simply with a flathead screwdriver, being careful not to damage the retaining clips as some pad suppliers do not supply new ones. once the pads have been removed you will need to press the caliper piston back into the caliper. be shure before you do this that you have removed the cap from the break fluid resivor and rested the cap on top to keep the fluid from squirting out of the resivor, then using a large C-clamp gently press the piston back into the caliper minding not to tear the rubber seal between the caliper and the piston once this is finished you can insert the new pads into the caliper. application of anti squeel compound to the backing of the pads is reccomended to keep the pads in place. reverse the order you used to remove the caliper and make shure the bolts are tight holding the caliper on. PUMP THE PEDAL A FEW TIMES BEFORE MOVING THE CAR!!! this is very important as it will take a few pumps to set the piston against the pads and the pads against the rotor. for standard street use any decent semi-metallic pads should be fine and the stock rotors should provide good stopping power. cross drilled rotors do help reduce break fade but should only be needed for racing applications. also flushing the break system keeps contaminates down in the system and keeps your break fluid from boiling under EXTREME conditions witch would result in having air in your breaking system.

the rear system should be drums and is a little more complicated as there are a few springs and cables wich need to be put on in the proper order and location, any time you service your rear breaks i suggest you should buy a hardware kit as well as break shoes. the expence is minimal and it is never good to use a spring more than once. most hanes/chiltons manuals should have a walkthrough on this system and anyone with a decent memory(or camera) should have little trouble preforming this mantinence